New Project, just checking off my parts list.
08-03-2012, 06:58 AM
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New Project, just checking off my parts list. Alright, I'm finally breaking down and fixing the shot suspension on my V. I live on a dirt road and it did my shocks and struts in in two months. I've ordered KW variant 3 coilovers, hotchkis sways, and a CS 8.8 swap (my diff is on it's way out too...). Question is I know I need some small supporting nick nacks, at this point new endlinks the way I understand it are a must.
I have found these and I just want to make sure I'm barking up the right tree.
http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/corve...FQP0nAodPyYAcQ
If you folks think of anything else let me know. Thanks.
I have found these and I just want to make sure I'm barking up the right tree.
http://www.c5racer.com/catalog/corve...FQP0nAodPyYAcQ
If you folks think of anything else let me know. Thanks.
08-03-2012, 09:47 AM
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I have some Z06 endlinks I am not using. PM me.
The ones I have look like these:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...Product_Upsell
The ones I have look like these:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...Product_Upsell
08-03-2012, 10:28 AM
#4
Look for a spherical bearing to replace the rear shock upper mount.
These MIGHT work:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=486
The KW's have a 10 mm shaft.
These MIGHT work:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=486
The KW's have a 10 mm shaft.
08-03-2012, 12:11 PM
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Much less expensive option:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1997-2004.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1997-2004.html
Look for a spherical bearing to replace the rear shock upper mount.
These MIGHT work:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=486
The KW's have a 10 mm shaft.
These MIGHT work:
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=486
The KW's have a 10 mm shaft.
Thanks for the input gentlemen, much appreciated.
08-03-2012, 02:07 PM
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Somebody has to try these out and report back. Heavy sent me these links when I did the kw v3 install but I was wanting to find some pfadt mounts but never could. If anybody has some pfadt's laying around I would be interested in buying/splitting a set.
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08-03-2012, 03:03 PM
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Well I'm glad I have a little while before this stuff comes in so I can get all the supporting bits and pieces in line. Keep it coming and thanks folks.
08-03-2012, 03:56 PM
#12
With regards to end links:
1. You can utilize your stock rear end links. There is a 95% chance that you will snap your front end links in the first 100 miles with a stiffer sway bar if you're lowered.
2. Your options for the front end links are the C5/C6 aluminum end links, which have the advantage of being super cheap, or quality adjustable end links (links with heim joint are most definitely not--unless you like the sound of clattering metal). If you go the C5/C6 aluminum end links route for the front, you'll need to drill larger holes to accept the M12 bolts on the end links. In addition to the drill bit, you'll also need four M12 flat washers, and four M12-1.75 hex nuts.
3. The rear end links must be the adjustable type, because nobody sells non-adjustable ones with a 90 degree bend (that I've found).
(I have an extra set of bolts, washers, and the C5/C6 end links if you want to buy them off me--I found out the hard way that they're no good for the rear end)
3. If you decide to go with adjustable end links, you only have two options: PowerGrid and LG.
http://www.powergridinc.com/swaybar.asp
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-Motorspor...f58250&vxp=mtr
(you can also look up LG online, but their website is temporarily down)
1. You can utilize your stock rear end links. There is a 95% chance that you will snap your front end links in the first 100 miles with a stiffer sway bar if you're lowered.
2. Your options for the front end links are the C5/C6 aluminum end links, which have the advantage of being super cheap, or quality adjustable end links (links with heim joint are most definitely not--unless you like the sound of clattering metal). If you go the C5/C6 aluminum end links route for the front, you'll need to drill larger holes to accept the M12 bolts on the end links. In addition to the drill bit, you'll also need four M12 flat washers, and four M12-1.75 hex nuts.
3. The rear end links must be the adjustable type, because nobody sells non-adjustable ones with a 90 degree bend (that I've found).
(I have an extra set of bolts, washers, and the C5/C6 end links if you want to buy them off me--I found out the hard way that they're no good for the rear end)
3. If you decide to go with adjustable end links, you only have two options: PowerGrid and LG.
http://www.powergridinc.com/swaybar.asp
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-Motorspor...f58250&vxp=mtr
(you can also look up LG online, but their website is temporarily down)
08-18-2012, 10:30 AM
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Just got the sway bars, and kw's mounted, and it's like driving a whole new car. Frankly I'm amazed by the change, still waiting on the 8.8. Heavy, I know see exactly what you mean by this, and I will hopefully find a piece that fits by the time my 8.8 comes in.
08-18-2012, 10:44 AM
#14
Are these your impressions coming from the stock FE4 shocks and springs, with stock sway bars, at stock ride height?
08-18-2012, 11:00 AM
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Yes, so of course it's a world of difference. Handling wise, it is very reminiscent of my buddy's Lotus Evora. I will say that new upper rear shock mounts are a must.
08-18-2012, 11:36 AM
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08-18-2012, 11:45 AM
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No I still need the mounts, the oem's work but they have an interesting soundtrack with the KW's. I will be calling AST on monday after I do some measuring.
08-18-2012, 11:51 AM
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08-18-2012, 12:43 PM
#20
Did you have to reuse part of the upper shock mount during this installation? I had the same issue when I was messing with my Ground Control kit, and it turned out that I simply needed to tighten down the top shock nut a whole lot more than originally I thought was sufficient.