hkdhkdhkd

Anyone have any tips for replacing the motor mounts?

I am half way through installing my Creative Steel mounts and can't get the mounts and lower brackets to line up when I start to drop the engine. I have the lower brackets loosely attached to the mount, but there is no way the subframe bolts are going to find their way up to the lower bracket.

ryridesmotox

One at a time, it felt like my motor moved forward a little so we lowered it down and jacked from the front, right behind the sway bar. It worked ok. Need a 2x4 for that, give it a shot. Your results may be different than mine. I had headers off, trans out, everything was gutted under the car, in the midst of clutch swap so I did it then.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, take one of the mounts off, line up the other one and get the stud back in it to keep it lined up. Then put the other mount in and it should be a lot easier.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

I did one side at a time and had no issues, sounds like that is the way to do it. Looking back at it I remember a few things that were frustrating: (besides running out of beer midway through)
-Driver side upper mount bottom fastener was seized in the block.. it took insane force to bust it loose.
-Passenger side motor mount removal was going well until I was rotating out and it puked all over my shirt and shorts.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I think GM had an improper torque spec on the lower driver side bolt. I had to use a breaker bar with 1 1/2 ft of extension so I could put force on it outside of the wheel well. I was pushing as hard as I possibly could, and it finally made a loud snap/crack sound. I was sure I had broken it, but it was in great shape.

Becker

iTrader: (4)

^^ Yea I was by myself doing the same and I still couldnt bust it loose. I was afraid of rounding the head while trying to put so much weight into the breaker bar. I ended up taking a piece of wood and cutting a quick slot for the head of the ratchet, tossed the wood on my spare jack and jacked it up so it put pressure on the head of the ratchet and extensions to the bolt. I then got outside on the front of the car and threw the jack handle over the ratchet (breaker bar) handle and giving it a nice thump.

Sounded like a fire cracker, I thought for sure it snapped but it didnt, haha....F that bolt.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Somewhere in their documentation, they have 250 ft-lbs only for that bolt and nobody caught it.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

I used a 1/2" bar with an impact 6 point and a single 2' extension and it busted loose with no drama....

Becker

iTrader: (4)

I used a my stubby 3/8" ratchet on all bolts except this one. I agree with bmylez, somewhere somebody snuck in the torque spec from hell

hkdhkdhkd

Finally got it. You guys are right about doing one side at a time. I ended up bolting the passenger side lower bracket to the mount all the way, while the drivers side was open with no lower bracket. Dropped the engine a little until I could grab the passenger side bracket through the subframe and start to thread it. Repeat on the drivers side and done.

Tips during the removal of the old mounts: I had no issues with the drivers side bolts. I had to use a 3/8" universal on the passenger side bolt near the cat. Disconnect the battery or you will see sparks from the starter! It's possible to over tighten the mount between the brackets and cause it to bulge.