Got my stuff installed, cleaned her up, took some pics.
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So what all was done?
D2 Coilovers, default spring rates for now.
Hurst Shifter w/my own **** and a new bezel, yay!
CS transmission mount
CS diff mounts
CS rear LCA
Geforce AWH axles + new seals on the diff
Philstine's clutch master cylinder (PMC)
All new calipers + stainless brake lines
ZO6 endlinks
Motor mounts were supposed to go in, but the were dragging their feet on it. I didn't really need them & got tired of waiting on the car after almost 2 weeks. They'll get it back for a day so they can install the warranty water pump & 160deg thermostat.
Also, I realized at the last minute that I never bought Kook cats, so I didn't put those in either. I'll probably save mounts/Kooks for a potential heads/cam install.
The shifter + PMC combo is making me totally have to learn to re-drive the car. The shifter is really throwing me off, I had gotten used to the looseness. I was hoping the PMC would resolve the 2nd gear grind I get once in every 50 shifts, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
The whole car feels snugger/firmer.
Lowering it with the D2s didn't come w/o any pitfalls. I'm getting lots of rubs on bumps at anything over 55mph. I don't drive that slow. I took it back the next day to the shop & immediately raised it back up a 1/2". It's sitting about 27.25" - 27.5". Part of the problem is that I inadvertantly bought 255/45 tires for the front. Too wide, too tall. I'll get some 245s next time, but I just bought these tires 5weeks ago. I've got 285s on the rear now, but with the new CS LCAs, I can go way wider now. The rears don't seem like they're wide enough as it is on the rim.
This occurred 2 hours after picking it up.
D2s, Gforce, CS LCAs:
New calipers with a paint job I totally ripped off of from tmontt. I actually would've gone with a metallic silver logo if I had gotten the right sizes, but I didn't, so I went with black. I didn't take any pix of them primered. Hmm. Painting this was sooo easy. DupliColor High Temp. Rattle cans have come a loooong way.
D2 Coilovers, default spring rates for now.
Hurst Shifter w/my own **** and a new bezel, yay!
CS transmission mount
CS diff mounts
CS rear LCA
Geforce AWH axles + new seals on the diff
Philstine's clutch master cylinder (PMC)
All new calipers + stainless brake lines
ZO6 endlinks
Motor mounts were supposed to go in, but the were dragging their feet on it. I didn't really need them & got tired of waiting on the car after almost 2 weeks. They'll get it back for a day so they can install the warranty water pump & 160deg thermostat.
Also, I realized at the last minute that I never bought Kook cats, so I didn't put those in either. I'll probably save mounts/Kooks for a potential heads/cam install.
The shifter + PMC combo is making me totally have to learn to re-drive the car. The shifter is really throwing me off, I had gotten used to the looseness. I was hoping the PMC would resolve the 2nd gear grind I get once in every 50 shifts, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
The whole car feels snugger/firmer.
Lowering it with the D2s didn't come w/o any pitfalls. I'm getting lots of rubs on bumps at anything over 55mph. I don't drive that slow. I took it back the next day to the shop & immediately raised it back up a 1/2". It's sitting about 27.25" - 27.5". Part of the problem is that I inadvertantly bought 255/45 tires for the front. Too wide, too tall. I'll get some 245s next time, but I just bought these tires 5weeks ago. I've got 285s on the rear now, but with the new CS LCAs, I can go way wider now. The rears don't seem like they're wide enough as it is on the rim.
This occurred 2 hours after picking it up.
D2s, Gforce, CS LCAs:
New calipers with a paint job I totally ripped off of from tmontt. I actually would've gone with a metallic silver logo if I had gotten the right sizes, but I didn't, so I went with black. I didn't take any pix of them primered. Hmm. Painting this was sooo easy. DupliColor High Temp. Rattle cans have come a loooong way.
Last edited by LAYGO; 10-19-2014 at 11:44 PM.
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Glad you got it all in. You must have missed my posts where I made it very clear you can't lower the front of the car if you're running 255/45 tires. I run them all around so I can rotate. Can't get them to break loose at all under normal WOT so not sure why you need 285 back there but you might be making a lot more power than me I'm not sure. Then again they're Michelins so they stick. At stock height I don't have any problems with them.
Car looks like it is lower in the back than in the front also. It's pretty easy to adjust that yourself too if you care. I see you took it back to the shop for the initial adjustment.
Car looks like it is lower in the back than in the front also. It's pretty easy to adjust that yourself too if you care. I see you took it back to the shop for the initial adjustment.
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Yeah, I dig em. I got a heckuva deal on them. They weren't perfect, but looked waaaay better than my stockers.
Thanks! Now, it was a gazillion times easier to paint with them off the car. If you're going to break the seal with new stainless lines, you may as well take them off & do it. How many times are you gonna break that seal?
And like I said, the rattle can 'tech' has come a long way, I have ZERO runs/blemishes from the paint. Very worth it. Now, the clearcoat, I fucked up. I waited too long between coats & I got some wrinkling, but it wasn't enough for me to start over.
Thanks! Me too. It really is one of my favorite colors. Granted tmontt was the first ones running green & I probably wouldn't have gone with it had I not seen his calipers green.
Once the shop saw the green calipers, they were extra careful with any brake fluid spills. Then they wanted to paint other stuff for me green. For some reason, I though the CS LCAs were going to be red, I never bothered to take the bubble wrap off of them. Had I known they were going to be black, I had plenty of green left over!
Yea, I never paid attention to the tire sizes people were using when lowered because I did not have plans on lowering it when I bought this set of tires . . . until I decided upon the D2s. Hell, I bought your MM spacers on the off chance I would, then went with D2s anyways, then sold the MM to fweasal. I'll probably run a lil shorter tire at 245 next time I buy some.
I'm running Continental Extreme Contact DW 285/35/19 in the rear with a 5mm spacer & longer wheel studs. 255/45/18 up front with a 10mm spacer + studs. My motor is completely stock & I can break them loose on command . . . with no wheel hop. I like wide rear tires. Just love the look, not that I necessarily need it.
It was measured at 27.25" - 27.50" all the way around. The rear being a lil higher by .25". It's also a lil deceptive with the shorter side wall on the 285/35 & being 19" in the rear.
And like I said, the rattle can 'tech' has come a long way, I have ZERO runs/blemishes from the paint. Very worth it. Now, the clearcoat, I fucked up. I waited too long between coats & I got some wrinkling, but it wasn't enough for me to start over.
Once the shop saw the green calipers, they were extra careful with any brake fluid spills. Then they wanted to paint other stuff for me green. For some reason, I though the CS LCAs were going to be red, I never bothered to take the bubble wrap off of them. Had I known they were going to be black, I had plenty of green left over!
Glad you got it all in. You must have missed my posts where I made it very clear you can't lower the front of the car if you're running 255/45 tires. I run them all around so I can rotate. Can't get them to break loose at all under normal WOT so not sure why you need 285 back there but you might be making a lot more power than me I'm not sure. Then again they're Michelins so they stick. At stock height I don't have any problems with them.
Car looks like it is lower in the back than in the front also. It's pretty easy to adjust that yourself too if you care. I see you took it back to the shop for the initial adjustment.
Car looks like it is lower in the back than in the front also. It's pretty easy to adjust that yourself too if you care. I see you took it back to the shop for the initial adjustment.
I'm running Continental Extreme Contact DW 285/35/19 in the rear with a 5mm spacer & longer wheel studs. 255/45/18 up front with a 10mm spacer + studs. My motor is completely stock & I can break them loose on command . . . with no wheel hop. I like wide rear tires. Just love the look, not that I necessarily need it.
It was measured at 27.25" - 27.50" all the way around. The rear being a lil higher by .25". It's also a lil deceptive with the shorter side wall on the 285/35 & being 19" in the rear.
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#10
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The odd gaps around the grill/hood? I think the prev owner had a slow speed impact right on the grill. It's kinda caved in above the crest. I want a new grill/bumper.
I'm pretty sure I got a "Friday" motor in my Impala. I couldn't break the wheels loose to save my life, but some of the other guys got the "Monday" motor that was running hotter than all others.
I'm not sure about my motor, never had it dyno'd.
I'm not sure about my motor, never had it dyno'd.
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Between my exhaust, stereo, and weather permitting, windows down, I don't hear it. With the new diff/trans mounts, I don't hear or feel any new excessive vibrations either.
#13
It's amazing how the body lines and fender arches of the Gen 1 CTS-V are still looking great after all these years. Nice work with the car. Looks very clean.
Where did you get the cleared out fog lights and side reflectors?
Where did you get the cleared out fog lights and side reflectors?
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CTS-V parts from NeonDials
Last edited by LAYGO; 10-21-2014 at 03:05 PM.
#15
Did you get the race CS motor mounts? if so, can you report back with just how much more vibration you get over stock? I'm going to be doing my motor mounts soon and am considering the race ones