connection is whooping my ass
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
connection is whooping my ***
I am straight up getting my *** handed to me. I'm installing the the PMC, and I'm done except for reconnecting the MC line to the slave at the reused fitting (the big end)
They seem to fit together fine, but I can't get the big metal horseshoe clip in.
If I put the horshoe clip in first, I can't push the fitting past it.
Its really pissing me off because all the other fittings worked perfectly either way..but this one is being stubborn and my hands are almost crippled at this point. I can't figure out why this **** won't go on.
They seem to fit together fine, but I can't get the big metal horseshoe clip in.
If I put the horshoe clip in first, I can't push the fitting past it.
Its really pissing me off because all the other fittings worked perfectly either way..but this one is being stubborn and my hands are almost crippled at this point. I can't figure out why this **** won't go on.
Last edited by hefftone; 02-23-2015 at 09:04 PM.
#4
TECH Fanatic
Dang dude, I've had mine on and off like 20 times.
If you push the male fitting too far into the female end, you can't get the clip in, if you don't push it in far enough, you can't get the clip in. Unless you have an obstruction, all you should have to do is push it in all the way, then let it out slowly. Pay attention to the clip channel. When the male end is backed out far enough, you will be able to see pretty clearly when the clip goes in.
If you push the male fitting too far into the female end, you can't get the clip in, if you don't push it in far enough, you can't get the clip in. Unless you have an obstruction, all you should have to do is push it in all the way, then let it out slowly. Pay attention to the clip channel. When the male end is backed out far enough, you will be able to see pretty clearly when the clip goes in.
#7
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Well **** me..... I would not have figured that **** out for a couple more days, lol.
I had the female rotated 90° out..... I found the flat spot and it went in with ease. Good call sir, I owe you a drink!
Aside from this fitting making me look retarded, and disconnecting the plug from the clutch switch the install went rather smooth. Philistine's instruction are great, but not quite tard proof.
Now I gotta figure out how I'm going to bleed this mess without a remote bleeder.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
You need something like this to easily crack the bleeder open http://www.grainger.com/product/WEST...n-Wrench-3LU26. It has to be as close to 3.5" as possible. Even a 4" wrench will be more difficult, but probably possible. It frigging sucks to get a piece of tubing on there as well. Remote bleeder is one of the best $50 mods, but sucks that you have to pull the trans.
#10
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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Is there anything special about that OEM connection between the master and slave lines? Or can that be deleted?
I have a Tilton slave cylinder setup that was done by RPS.
There's a braided line coming off the slave (not shown in the pic above, but you can see the fitting where it attaches on the side of the slave). The shop that did the install took the OEM connector off the LS7 slave I had and installed that onto the end of the braided line to mate up to the OEM connector on the line coming from the master cylinder. It's hard to get a picture with everything in the way, but you can see the blue end of the -3AN line, a black piece threaded into the blue piece (I assume that's an adapter), then the big black OEM connector from the LS7 slave.
The PMC kit has you do the same thing with the other side of the OEM connector - use an adapter on the end of the supplied braided line and then the OEM connector clips onto that adapter. What I'm wondering is if there's any reason I need to keep those OEM connectors? If I've got 2 braided lines, can I just connect them with a male-to-male coupler fitting? Or are those OEM connectors more than just connectors (like there's a check valve inside there or some other function)?
I have a Tilton slave cylinder setup that was done by RPS.
There's a braided line coming off the slave (not shown in the pic above, but you can see the fitting where it attaches on the side of the slave). The shop that did the install took the OEM connector off the LS7 slave I had and installed that onto the end of the braided line to mate up to the OEM connector on the line coming from the master cylinder. It's hard to get a picture with everything in the way, but you can see the blue end of the -3AN line, a black piece threaded into the blue piece (I assume that's an adapter), then the big black OEM connector from the LS7 slave.
The PMC kit has you do the same thing with the other side of the OEM connector - use an adapter on the end of the supplied braided line and then the OEM connector clips onto that adapter. What I'm wondering is if there's any reason I need to keep those OEM connectors? If I've got 2 braided lines, can I just connect them with a male-to-male coupler fitting? Or are those OEM connectors more than just connectors (like there's a check valve inside there or some other function)?
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
It serves no purpose other than to be a quick connect. Allowing you to not get covered in brake fluid, and theoretically, allowing you to skip the bleeding process of it is simply connected and disconnected. Also, keeping the master from not flowing dry on removal and causing serious bleeding issues later. Once air is in that master it can be a pita
#16
TECH Regular
iTrader: (2)
You decide
The Tilton slave is pricey but a great option and I'm sure it's treating you well. I'm sure many are interested on your feedback regarding the slave.
#18
The female end on mine is so deep into the bell housing that I will not be able to pull that clip out unless I drop the tranny again. Is there another way I can do this without pulling the trans back out? I wish I had known I was going to have trouble connecting this line.
#19
Because of the leakage issue, I've had to rebuild my slave several times and I've been considering replacing my McLeod slave with a Tilton slave. Before I drop another $400-600 on a slave, I want to get both companies' perspectives on which throwout bearing style is best (McLeod likes flat, whereas Tilton offers a couple of styles) and compare/contrast the length adjustment features of each design. McLeod'a solution is really simple and reliable--a set of stackable machined ring-shaped shims. In my searches, I haven't been able to find any information on how Tilton's designs address this challenge.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-07-2016 at 09:07 AM.