DOHCsky

iTrader: (3)

looks good with the blacked out grills, when does BMS meet nowadays?

tlorenzen

Onebad - I have a spare tank from an 03 in my garage if it turns out to be the clip on the tank is broke...I'll let you know when/if I find the sensor wire.

Naf - I had the lower windshield plastics taken off the other day so I could feel the bottom of the tank. I'll crawl under this weekend and check around the steering column for the wire. I was underneath last weekend but didn't find jack.

Shawn - it looks like they're only doing Orlando cars and coffee cruises currently which is the second Saturday of every month.

tlorenzen

Small update, more for myself than anything.

Knocked out a couple problems today..
Ordered Brians short throw shifter...even with new bushings the stock one worse than a retired prostitute.
Installed new Driver headrest bracket that I ordered from dealer.
Installed new rear passenger window switch bought from onebad636, previous one wouldn't roll window up...works great and great seller by the way.
Installed new turn signal switch from Amazon. Previous one would blind people when using turn signal at night.

Existing Problems to fix:
Cannot find cable for coolant tank....keep getting "check coolant" message and it's not plugged in.
Side brake lights intermittently quit working then work again...very annoying as the center one always works.
Outside Temp readings are still showing about 60 degrees below actual temperature.
Need to fix windshield washer hose...Accidentally broke it when dipping the car.
Need to do LCA mod to bring camber more positive.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

1. Coolant level switch is a 2 wire connector. Light green is a switch signal and black is ground. Its located towards the bottom of the reservoir.
2. BAS relay controls all tail lights including center IIRC so if you're getting the center light on correctly, id look from the relay back to see where the wiring splits to the tail lights at. Check to ensure you're getting the right voltage at the light too, and its not just intermittent because you have shitty bulbs. lol Shake the wires for breaks, etc.
3. I believe its by the hood lock area. Its a 2 wire sensor. V6 sensor may work as well so swap them if you can and see how it goes if you still have your V6.
4. Thats easy. Clamps and hoses and fittings...
5. Sounds like you already know what to do here.

tlorenzen

Thanks for the input man...Saw the V is for sale..GLWS, until then keep her sidewayz haha.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Are you sure those outside temp readings aren't showing Celsius?

tlorenzen

Given it says ºF behind the number I'm gonna go with I'm sure its not...Its 75 in FL today and I was getting a reading of 8...so even if it was some sort of display error that would only equate to 46 degrees.

tlorenzen

Been a while since I've updated this.

Update the 1-5 list above.
1. Still haven't found the wire...still getting notifications...Living with it for now.
2. Haven't got to mess with this yet...sorry people behind me...Hope my center LED's blind you....
3. Sanded down the other grounds (Head, hood), no change in readings. Still lost...
4. Complete as stated above.
5. Rear camber mod complete. Came out pretty well. Still need to do the fronts.

Got Brian's Hurst Shifter installed last month. Holding up well and a great improvement over the stocker.
Got new Nitto NT555 G2's put on last wednesday...So far they're an awesome tire.
Putting in a new O2 sensor this weekend to get rid of CEL.

Wrecked my old tires before I got my new ones put on and I'm pretty sure I wrecked my clutch while doing so. The pedal feel sometimes feels heavy and sticky. Did a fluid change and no change. I'm planning on changing it out come summer anyways so no big deal if it can hold until then.

Considered trading up for a V2 or buying a truck on top of the v1...Decided I don't want payments since I'm going to be paying for my Masters in cash so I'm going to put a tow hitch on the V (For a small boat, and tire/toolbox trailer for track events) and start modding my heart away. Progress should start sometime in June.

tlorenzen

Out with the old, in with the new.

New pacesetter headers. We'll see how long they last...Good fitment, and sound incredible through the Corsa. However, one of the off road connectors had a pin hole in it from the weld. It also seems they hang a tad bit lower than the stockers...I about took off a fuel cap at the gas station the other day....

New 2005 6.0 Truck starter. This starter is longer, but fits good. I had to loosen and swivel the (CPS?) or whatever sensor is on the side of the block next to it in order to make it fit. No more no start worries though and only $50 through Amazon. Also thermal taped it.

New ATI 10% UD harmonic balancer...Loving this..no more vibrations around 2k rpms.



Anyone want a set of High-flow cats or a starter with a broken control wire clip?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Were those the coated pacesetters before the wrap?

tlorenzen

Yes. Probably a little overkill and will probably accelerate the "they're going to rust" factor, but the engine bay seems to be cooler now than it was with the stockers.

HP tuners street tune going on the car in about 20 min

Update - MAF is reading a -40* F AI... Went ahead and did the tune and estimated a little difference for the timing its trying to add...Thinking this could be what was causing the excessive power differences from say a 60 degree day to an 80 degree day. Not sure if I should replace it with an aftermarket or an OEM one...

tlorenzen

Been making some pretty good progress on the ole gravel truck lately. The CV joint on my driveshaft went out and I had Voodoo Chicken rebuild it. I also used CS's laser tool and shimmed the rear cradle to get the shaft more in line. The car now has less vibrations than ever before.



Before:


After:



Today I solved both the low coolant warning and temperature difference...I'm still baffled on the reason..but simply put, the HVAC controller was the cause. I swapped back to the original controller and problem solved. Thanks to the STS guys http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...-location.html

I just had to put on new rear tires again this week...I think I'm having too much fun with this haha.

Next is relocating the AIT sensor, since the current one is reading -40*F.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

You have a cut in the connection for your iat circuit.

I would peel off the black protection and see where the cut is

I checked out cs website, there is no laser tool mentioned.

DOHCsky

iTrader: (3)

The laser tool is something Max came up with to help customers align the one piece shafts if vibrations develop after install. "Tlorenzo" lives 20 mins from me and I have it on loan from CS for that very reason so I helped him with the tool while he was putting in his new shaft. I haven't had a chance to use it myself since I have to drop my cradle again to do fuel pump, all the rear arms, and bushings so I'm not sure how it will work on the aluminum one piece.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Would this not be good medicine for even two-piece shaft cars?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You mean it's something he copied from me. Whatever, it's their standard operating procedure.

Just buy a $12 shotgun laser boresight and stick it on the end of your T-56 propeller flange.

Good for the whole family.

tlorenzen

Naf - I'll check out the wires to make sure, still going to go forward with the relocate though. I'm sure if you were to get a hold of max he could send you one. The one he sent to DOHCsky had the rear bracket setup for an 8.8 so I couldn't get the laser on the dif leaving me unsure of the pinion angle but at least they're fairly inline now. Is there not a thread on this somewhere?

The vibes decreased but still have alot of differential whine through the green Revshift bushings which was non existent before the bushings.

Mercier - It definitely wouldn't hurt. It might be worth seeing if max has a bracket for the stock differential for us peasants who don't have an 8.8.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

I took the opposite approach from fuzzy, i put my iat closer to the tb, for a more accurate readin.

I also have meth so downstream is better than upstream for me

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

In theory, that is a better sensor location because it more accurately reflects the temperature of the air entering the cylinders. However, in both cases, you still have to compensate for the temperature rise from your measurement point. Putting the sensor near the TB just reduces the amount of compensation. Also, if your intake tube is well-insulated, there should be no meaningful difference in the temperatures observed at those locations.

Naf's solution is a little tricky because the temperature sensor wiring (starting from the stock harness) wants to run close to the power steering pulley and serpentine belt. If that was the only downside, I would've put my sensor there, but the other problem is that the sensor is prone to heatsoaking.

In my experience, the vast majority of the hot radiator exhaust air is diverted up into the intake tube/underhood area after it hits the engine block. Both the RTD and the wire resistance are affected by this; one indirectly and the other directly. Recall that these two-wire RTD systems are incapable of canceling out lead resistance; you'd need a three or four-wire system to handle that. So, on our cars, when the sensor wires get hot, the temperature read by the ECU skews upwards.

The optimal solution, to me, probably consists of a bare RTD suspended in the center of the intake manifold. I've never really thought about this problem at this level of detail, but off the cuff, it seems like you could show the temperature difference at three or four different points along the intake path with $250 worth of test equipment.

Once you have the data, the debate would probably shift to the relative merits of each measurement location (e.g. ease of installation/removal, steady-state accuracy, and transient response). It's an interesting topic; I'll put taking those measurements in my queue.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

It looks like you're still running a stock trans mount. The CS trans mount will raise the rear of the transmission slightly, so you could potentially make up that last little distance with a new mount. I'm not sure if the Revshift insert will provide the same lift, but it may do the same trick.
But, if the vibrations are that good, you may also just want to leave it alone.
Food for thought.