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...Iit seems you run the higher risk of (I think they called it lube wash?) meaning under high temps and spirited driving the oil would wash out of the bearings and create zero film barrier...
With regards to high oil pressure, this is what I've always heard...
Again, thanks guys. This thread has been far more rewarding for me than I ever imagined with the encouragement, information, opinions, etc.
The oil pressure runs through an o-ring at the pan rail/pan interface and I think it sprays out there before you get a filter bursting. At least that's what I think happens when I don't let the Jeep warm up all the way on a cold day and hit some RPMs...I get a little squirt and then it goes back to normal.
I actually took a quick break to get up to Indy for the PRI show. Guess what? Passed the Melling guys while having a beer at the opening party..didn't want to bug them with work tonight but I'm going to pick their brains about it tomorrow. Hopefully get some information from the source. Still only 20 mins of work to change the spring if they recommend it. I'll let you know what I find out.
Opening deal was actually across the street at Lucas Stadium where the have an exploded display of a pro stock engine. Pretty cool:
That is cool! At to oil psi it's mostly dependent on your bearing gap and journal size. I'm still playing catch up on internal lsx motors (spent too much time with ponchos) but I would assume the same rules would be in play. Curious on what the mellings guys say!!
Not criticizing your method of fixing the intake, I do wonder though why didn't you just have it welded up decked and the groove re machined into the flange? The way you fixed it I could definitively see it sealing without a doubt, just curious.
Being that the intake is a bit of a unicorn, the folks I talked to indicated that it would be unpredictable and they couldn't guarantee the work. Also the entire thing would have to be disassembled and I'd rather see it work before I completely tear it apart. Not to mention...$3 vs $(a lot more). If this doesn't work out I can always grind out the epoxy and still go the other route. Once you weld on and warp an intake I don't know if there is any going back.
It's a shame as I have really enjoyed the O-rings on the LS platform..but the damage is the only thing that made this affordable to me.
Bottom line, my budget only supports this intake if I make it work cheaply.
Being that the intake is a bit of a unicorn, the folks I talked to indicated that it would be unpredictable and they couldn't guarantee the work. Also the entire thing would have to be disassembled and I'd rather see it work before I completely tear it apart. Not to mention...$3 vs $(a lot more). If this doesn't work out I can always grind out the epoxy and still go the other route. Once you weld on and warp an intake I don't know if there is any going back.
It's a shame as I have really enjoyed the O-rings on the LS platform..but the damage is the only thing that made this affordable to me.
Bottom line, my budget only supports this intake if I make it work cheaply.
Ahh yeah makes sense for sure! I have really enjoyed this build, can't wait to see it running. The cool thing with the ls is that the intake is a dry intake so you are only worrying about sealing the actual runners and not the cooling system like older gm engines.
Melling rep said that until I hit 150-175PSI there is no danger other than a little wasted power generating pressure I don't need. He said red spring and don't look back. So I'm going to roll with it. He also confirmed that there were no changes to the 10296 other than the casting process so "new" and "old" 10296 should perform just the same.
I'm still surprised that I hear about bursting an oil filter instead of seepage at the pan-block interface.
Makes more sense once you remember that LS motor oil pans are a structural piece, a stressed member as they call it. As long as you have a good gasket and seal, that should be much tighter and more robust than the relatively thin sheet metal in the oil filter. GM really didn't want Gen III+ engines being as leaky at the old SBCs. Lots of good engineering at GM Powertrain in the mid-late 90s.
That and the oil pan is o-ring sealed. Which tend to be way higher pressure resistant. The oil filter bursting happens on the metal can part of it. Which has zero other structural support other than the thickness of wall used. Think of a sofa can freezing.
But I still would advise you against that red spring. With out it I can guarantee you'll still have 30+ psi at idle and over 60 at full tilt. So why not try and score a few extra RWponnies when you could? Especially since there is no down side. Just me.
I see a hose nipple apparently where the plug that holds the spring in goes. Not sure what that would be for, though. What's the story?
So that's where the bypass oil goes. Hose runs from there to a fitting a bit down back on the pickup tube before it heads down toward the bottom of the pan. So bypass oil keeps the pickup full. Should severely limit or possibly eliminate oil starvation. AND apparently 10-12HP because you are not having to suck as much oil up out of the pan. Even if no horsepower or even just a few, the former promise is really motivating. It's also ported. The pump to block interface is also grooved for an o-ring on the pump side to make sure that it can't suck any air there.
Sounds like a pretty smart bunch sat down and figured out how to maximize the capabilities of wet-sump in the LS. Here's a shot of a Xerox of a mag picture.
Couldn't find much on those Schumann bypass pumps. It'll definitely be something to keep in mind as I get closer to my LSX build. Here are all the articles/threads I found:
I forgot I sold you the heads for this project. Huh. What's the status?
I was watching the "stagnant/predicted to be stagnant thread ****" in action over in the "Voupe" thread and wondering when I would be targeted for my inaction over here. I'd blame it on winter but it's been 80 degrees almost every day.
It's going to be a couple of weeks before demonstrable progress is reported. Work has really picked up so leaving the office early doesn't happen much and a 45 minute trip to the shop space at 5:00 has really demotivated me. Also for the uninitiated: when you rent shop space from a guy that parts cars for a living know that use of the lift, while seeming convenient, is not. A car comes in, goes up on the lift, first thing that comes off is the wheels and suspension and then it can't be moved off the lift for a month or two at a time. For $100 what was I expecting? More than the $100 deserved, but still more.
As much as I hate to move all my **** AGAIN, I think I've found the right spot this time. About 10 minutes from my house, almost on the way home from work, 25x50 insulated shop with electricity, plumbing stubbed out, camper-sized roll-up door and side-entry door for $400/mo. I was already paying about $275 between the other shop space and a storage unit for the other projects so it's not much of an increase.
I already have an A/C unit to put in there and it should just be a weekend or two to move all my stuff.
Biggest benefit: ALL MINE. I can work in more unrestricted fashion as if I am not at a stopping point tonight, I can just leave the **** where it is, lock the door, and come back the next day knowing nothing was touched, moved, leaked on, or grew legs.
Biggest drawback: NO LIFT. Buuuuuut I am going to crank up the charm with the owner of the place. Hoping if I deposit the amount to patch the holes that might be left by me moving out years later that he might allow it.
If you sleeve and tap the floor for direct bolts, I'd call that an asset improvement. He could then advertise that it's bolt-in ready for a lift. Win-Win.
If you sleeve and tap the floor for direct bolts, I'd call that an asset improvement. He could then advertise that it's bolt-in ready for a lift. Win-Win.
Yep. Hopefully he agrees. One of those annoyances of a lift is that that space is forever...lift. Check this thing out:
When you don't need it, a few minutes to disconnect from the floor and roll it in the corner. It won't let you fully stand up under a lifted vehicle, but honestly most of my time with a big-boy lift was spent at lower lifts working from stools and such.
Finders crossed I can talk the guy into a few holes in his concrete.
Moving. My friends would think this is my favorite thing to do. Why work on cars when you could move storage units every weekend?
Got LS? There's the 8.8 in a 5-gallon bucket(thanks for the tip Steve!), LS1, LY6, the V LS2(.5?), some exhaust, an extra Jeep wheel, China's best 20-ton press, and a lot of back pain.
But a lot of space in there. And look at all that pretty insulation. My fat butt loves some A/C.
12-07-2016, 11:10 PM
My friends would think this is my favorite thing to do. Why work on cars when you could move storage units every weekend?
