gatesjeff33

Hi Guys,

I installed a LS7 clutch into my 2005 cts-v and it's working great, but one problem... The car won't start unless I jump the solenoid cable to the fuse box. I had the battery unhooked for nearly 2 weeks.

I got the service anti-theft system message and did the relearn procedure for the keys. (10 minutes on 10 seconds off) x 3, but it won't start with the keys using the ignition. I noticed that my security light is not on though, but my traction control light is on when I drive it. Everything else on the car is working good i.e. fuel gauge, seat memory settings, the computer seems to still remember the gallons of fuel used, oil life, welcome messages for each set of keys, etc.....

I swapped the starter relay with the blower and swapped the fuse for the starter with another fuse.

I really don't want to take this to the dealer to get it fixed.

Could one of the connections to the transmission be causing the vehicle to not start and for the traction control to be lit up?

I have not checked the clutch switch, but for some reason that fact that the traction control light is on, I think that I have triggered the anti theft system. It is very odd thought that the security light was not on when I was trying reprogramming the keys. The light is supposed to be on and then turn off after 10 minutes of the ignition being on with the keys in it.

Any help would be appreciated. I've been driving my old Jeep wrangler around for 4 weeks now.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Geez I hate to be captain obvious here but you gotta check that clutch switch. One way to half *** check it might be to drive it and see if the clutch interrupts cruise control. AFAIK it is two separate circuits on the switch though(start vs. cruise).

gatesjeff33

That's a clever way to check it. I will do that on the way home from work.

I am starting to think that I might have two issues at once here. Clutch switch and something with the traction control.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

I was also going to suggest trying the cruise control test..

Question, did you unhook the steering shaft when you were pulling the transmission?

gatesjeff33

no, I only had to remove the starter.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Almost certain it's the CPP. A while back, I suffered the same issue and went through very similar troubleshooting steps (including swapping the blower and starter relays), except that I also replaced my starter with a MSD 5096 before realizing that the CPP was refusing to actuate until the clutch pedal was jammed HARD against the floor.

I would be willing to bet that your CPP is not getting pressed all the way down, or that it needs replacing. The only other possibility is that you borked the plastic connector on the signal wire leading to the back side of the starter. If you turn the key to START, hear a very faint click from a solenoid in the engine bay, and the dash lights go out but the battery doesn't discharge--definitely the CPP or the signal wire.

gatesjeff33

Is there anyway to explain the Traction control light being on?

gatesjeff33

When I started the car to leave work, the traction control light was no longer on.

I turned on cruise control. When I press the clutch pedal in, it disengages cruise control so the clutch pedal position is working fine.

The starter works. I've swapped the starter relay and the starter fuse.

I am starting to wonder if something is wrong with the wiring upstream from the fuse box in the engine bay.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

i was getting intermittent start and it ended up being the starter plastic connector getting crispy and brittle. new starter with a nut style terminator and everything is bueno.

i would also look into the person above who said that the start and cruise disengage functions may be different on the CPP. i dont know for sure but that may explain why cruise stops but car wont start.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I read this info in the Philistine clutch master thread. They are discussing the switch as it relates to that part but probably still relevant:

"It's a two position switch and the contacts have a fairly generous contact strip. When you press down on the clutch pedal it opens the top contacts and closes the bottom which enables you start your car. Back in the home position (foot off the clutch pedal) it opens the bottom and closes the top - which enables your cruise control."

So if #1 happens but #2 doesn't it seems cruise might disengage but starter not fire. Have you put a multimeter on the start wire to see if you get 12V when turning the key(to start)?

Post #284 here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...linder-15.html

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

That's correct. The first CPP signal, which disengages cruise control and is shown on the GM Tech 2 status display, occurs with the clutch pedal about halfway down. The second signal, which enables the vehicle to start, occurs when the plunger is almost bottomed-out.

When I was troubleshooting this issue on my car, I mistakenly thought that my CPP was not the issue because my Tech 2 was reporting that the CPP switch was being closed at about 1/2 pedal travel. After I replaced the stock starter and inspected every inch of the harness wiring and still had the problem, I got pissed off, slammed the clutch pedal into the floor, and turned the key.

To my chagrin, the car started right up.

gatesjeff33

Yeah, I noticed that the cruise control cut out pretty quickly when I pressed the pedal. I might sneak home during lunch and use a volt meter on it to see what is going on.

gatesjeff33

It's the clutch position sensor. WTF.....

Some how after sitting unused for 2 weeks and being pumped 100 times to bleed the clutch, it managed to fail.

The good thing is I can reach down to the clutch position sensor and squeeze it so it travels it's entire length and start the car with the key now.

I think it's normal range of travel has been worn down and does not make contact. Squeezing the switch by hand is a good way to test the functionality of this switch and could be done without removing the trim piece.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like a stealth anti-theft system to me. Some folks pay money for that. I have had Mustangs with multi-layer anti-theft...including jumper cables and starting fluid.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The good news is that a replacement costs $25 and is available almost everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D2230.../dp/B000EQS15G

gatesjeff33

I got it one 1 day delivery.

I probably could have gotten by with just shimming the switch with something so it gets the full travel and makes contact again... When this new switch fails, I'll go that route.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

If you want a little bit of insurance against the contacts wearing/corroding in the future, dielectric grease on the contacts. That is if it is easy to get apart/reassemble without jacking it up. My 4 wheelers had 4x4 switches that were similar in design and once I slathered the inside with the grease, I could sink them for hours and never miss a beat. Since then, every connector I pull apart on any vehicle(road or off-road) I monkey with gets a little on the contacts.

gatesjeff33

So the new switch didn't fixed the issue. The only switch was still good. So I broke off the bottom of the old switch and shoved it underneath the newly installed switch and the car starts up great. I will have to take a closer look at what is going on under there and what is causing it not to travel the proper distance. I have tried without the floor mats in and it still didn't work.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

I thought that was a Corolla thing...