Heads Off 2005 CTS V. Suggestions Please...
#1
Heads Off 2005 CTS V. Suggestions Please...
Been trying to do some maintenance and upgrades to my 2005 CTS V. She currently has 140K miles and posting this inquiry on a couple of forums I frequent.
So I was installing headers and ran into a couple broken studs in places I couldn't reach to extract without removing the heads. Someone with more skill than myself might have been able to accomplish it but I just couldn't get it done.
So now that I've got the heads off the car are there any recommendations on anything I should (need to) change out while I'm in there.
Any input would be greatly appreciated...
So I was installing headers and ran into a couple broken studs in places I couldn't reach to extract without removing the heads. Someone with more skill than myself might have been able to accomplish it but I just couldn't get it done.
So now that I've got the heads off the car are there any recommendations on anything I should (need to) change out while I'm in there.
Any input would be greatly appreciated...
Last edited by nixc5; 07-30-2016 at 07:10 PM.
#4
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I'm with naf. If you have the heads off might as well go full cam install. Would have been good to do a compression check before but I bet you're ok. Lifters, trays, springs, pushrods. Rocker inspection or replacement/upgrade, chain, pump and gaskets. And a new bump stick. Put it back together with arp hardware and call it born again. Tune will be needed. Maybe machine the heads a hair to make sure they are flat.
#6
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I'd say a cam is probably twice the work and twice they money a simple top end refresh will cost.
I ran into this exact same scenario when I installed headers. I was able to get it done for about $500 in parts.
New head gaskets, new lifters, lifter trays, comp trunion upgrade, new valve seals and springs, ARP bolt kit, and a can of B12 Chemtool cleaner.
I ran into this exact same scenario when I installed headers. I was able to get it done for about $500 in parts.
New head gaskets, new lifters, lifter trays, comp trunion upgrade, new valve seals and springs, ARP bolt kit, and a can of B12 Chemtool cleaner.
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#8
First of all, thank you to everyone that took the time to respond to my post.
I have started doing some research based on the responses I've gotten and it's leading to just as many questions as answers. I'll continue to do my own DD but I will probably also be posting some follow on questions.
In fact, I already have a first question. There are numerous opinions on gasket kits. For an engine with 140K on it, is there a certain kit I should lean towards? At this point I was looking at this kit on RockAuto simply because my ride has so many miles.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432727&jsn=440
I have started doing some research based on the responses I've gotten and it's leading to just as many questions as answers. I'll continue to do my own DD but I will probably also be posting some follow on questions.
In fact, I already have a first question. There are numerous opinions on gasket kits. For an engine with 140K on it, is there a certain kit I should lean towards? At this point I was looking at this kit on RockAuto simply because my ride has so many miles.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432727&jsn=440
Last edited by nixc5; 08-01-2016 at 11:54 AM.
#11
DONE... Along with RevShift Trans mount insert and diff bushings (front and rear)...
Sorry I didn't go with your brand but I had bought the RevShift before I knew much about your organization. I did however use your shifter bushing when I upgraded to the Hurst short throw shifter.
Sorry I didn't go with your brand but I had bought the RevShift before I knew much about your organization. I did however use your shifter bushing when I upgraded to the Hurst short throw shifter.
Last edited by nixc5; 08-01-2016 at 12:00 PM.
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54inches (11-23-2023)
#12
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That's actually a pretty good deal on a gasket set. I think I paid like $50 for the head gaskets alone. But beyond valve seals, the rest of the gaskets aren't really necessary unless they get damaged during dis/reassembly. I just cleaned my MLS exhaust gaskets and reused the OEM pieces.
#14
If you are that far in, just do the cam and springs.
You'll think about how you should've done it while you were halfway there years from now.
If you don't go ARP head bolts/studs, at the very least, get new stock head bolts.
Clean up the pistons while you are in there. Also, I never replaced the stock lifter trays, but put new LS7 lifters in.
Hopefully this will help a little:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l-writeup.html
You'll think about how you should've done it while you were halfway there years from now.
If you don't go ARP head bolts/studs, at the very least, get new stock head bolts.
Clean up the pistons while you are in there. Also, I never replaced the stock lifter trays, but put new LS7 lifters in.
Hopefully this will help a little:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l-writeup.html
#15
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Since already doing the springs, seals and fluids etc, not to mention labor, I would get the heads milled and ported, new cam, dual springs, arp head bolts atleast for reuse purposes, comp trunnion upgrades, and new lifters and trays. New ls2 timing chain set, and since you are in there a new oil pump is cheap insurance at about 150ish. get a tune and hope for 430-450 rwhp depending on the cam.
Or you could buy my motor for 13k and have a nice new lsx 427.
Or you could buy my motor for 13k and have a nice new lsx 427.
Last edited by slowlaneblues06; 08-02-2016 at 12:42 PM.
#16
If you are that far in, just do the cam and springs.
You'll think about how you should've done it while you were halfway there years from now.
If you don't go ARP head bolts/studs, at the very least, get new stock head bolts.
Clean up the pistons while you are in there. Also, I never replaced the stock lifter trays, but put new LS7 lifters in.
Hopefully this will help a little:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l-writeup.html
You'll think about how you should've done it while you were halfway there years from now.
If you don't go ARP head bolts/studs, at the very least, get new stock head bolts.
Clean up the pistons while you are in there. Also, I never replaced the stock lifter trays, but put new LS7 lifters in.
Hopefully this will help a little:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...l-writeup.html
#17
Once again thanks to everyone for taking the time to share the advice.
Now I have to figure out how to spec out what I want and create a parts list...
for the heads.... Should I send them off or find a local shop to have the work done? More specifically, is there a vendor on here that I should support? On that same note, does the CAM spec as well as the choice of lifters, springs, etc. (other than the Rods) impact what work is done on the heads or can I go ahead and get that piece started while I start working on identifying the other parts?
Now I have to figure out how to spec out what I want and create a parts list...
for the heads.... Should I send them off or find a local shop to have the work done? More specifically, is there a vendor on here that I should support? On that same note, does the CAM spec as well as the choice of lifters, springs, etc. (other than the Rods) impact what work is done on the heads or can I go ahead and get that piece started while I start working on identifying the other parts?
#18
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If the heads are off and you have the coin then I'd say port them. If you dont have the coin then lifters, trays, springs, cam, seals, timing chain at a min.
Things to add would be an intake (90mm graft ls6) ported heads, oil pump etc.
unless the plan is to take the heads off again in the future there is no need for ARP hardware.
Clean the pistons and do a very good job checking the cylinder walls.
FWIW if it was me and the heads were off and I had that many miles I would probably take the block out for a hone and new rings. Of course then I'd want forged rods and pistons. The rabbit hole never ends really.
Things to add would be an intake (90mm graft ls6) ported heads, oil pump etc.
unless the plan is to take the heads off again in the future there is no need for ARP hardware.
Clean the pistons and do a very good job checking the cylinder walls.
FWIW if it was me and the heads were off and I had that many miles I would probably take the block out for a hone and new rings. Of course then I'd want forged rods and pistons. The rabbit hole never ends really.
#20
I would take the heads somewhere local that's reputable, or buy some already done and sell yours. You'll need to pick out a cam before you figure out what springs you'll need.