Need input to kill the remaining gremlins.
10-15-2016, 12:30 PM
#1
Need input to kill the remaining gremlins. Has anyone had to replace the MIL light bulb? Its got a P0650 code for failed light.
We have confirned the previous tuner had the bulb removed.
How big a pain in the *** is it to do, and would a removed MIL bulb cause any other codes such as the P0605 or P606 to also be thrown?
A bunch of gremlins just got exercised with a proper tune on the car.
The car had the usual P0430 and P0420 for the gutted cats.
What my tuner said is that he cannot recognize the values on some stuff that was written because it was written with GCC spec vehicles. Small minute differences. But they exist. Ive learned that in previous cars so I dont have any doubt that he is not making an accurate statment.
It wasnt tuned to a US spec LS2. I dont know enough about tuning to comment further, but the tuning guys who pulled the file are 100% positive that this is what happened with the previous tune.
Its running great now, and only has a few more deamons to remove.
Can anyone who uses HP tuners verify if the above is indeed a possibility? Wrong spec tuning?
They stated that it had gone as far as it was possible to improve at this time until I put a real exhaust with highflow cats and then we will dyno tune it to max drivability and power.
They eliminated CAGS!!!!!!! That was a gremlin. Sometimes working. Sometimes not. Temperamental. I fixed a few of the more notorious ground locations and now the car runs smoother and my lights are brighter and cags works full time now. Reverse lockout still a 50 50 shot, but im going to throw a new solenoid in.
The other codes are
A P0118 ECT voltage high which seems to be the sensor, however its reading logical numbers so maybe a wiring issue? I am stil suspicious of the ECT sensor being 10 years old.
And the 2 codes for brake circuit high and bpp not calibrated. It was suggested the codes for that may be solinoids leaking in the abs switch.
The p0420 and p0430 codes have been removed.
The last 2 im stumpped.
Trying to clear a few codes and trouble shoot them.
C0278 and C0284.
C0278 is brake position switch not calibrated.
C0284 is brake circuit high whatever that means.
I have replaced my BPP twice. It used to have a code for brake over voltage, this has cleared with both of the new units and returns with the old unit.
The new message it displays is "stability system ready" on the dic when I go to program/calibrate the switch.
Im at a loss here.
Traction control is disabled, I cannot turn it on at all. No cruise control either. The TPMS sensors have been, "forgotten" and they read --- instead of psi.
Suggestions on possible wire related issues?
Next step is replacment of body control module and ecm. Neither of which I am looking forward to. The tuners verified the ecm/pcm before tuning.
Any help yall?
-Byron
We have confirned the previous tuner had the bulb removed.
How big a pain in the *** is it to do, and would a removed MIL bulb cause any other codes such as the P0605 or P606 to also be thrown?
A bunch of gremlins just got exercised with a proper tune on the car.
The car had the usual P0430 and P0420 for the gutted cats.
What my tuner said is that he cannot recognize the values on some stuff that was written because it was written with GCC spec vehicles. Small minute differences. But they exist. Ive learned that in previous cars so I dont have any doubt that he is not making an accurate statment.
It wasnt tuned to a US spec LS2. I dont know enough about tuning to comment further, but the tuning guys who pulled the file are 100% positive that this is what happened with the previous tune.
Its running great now, and only has a few more deamons to remove.
Can anyone who uses HP tuners verify if the above is indeed a possibility? Wrong spec tuning?
They stated that it had gone as far as it was possible to improve at this time until I put a real exhaust with highflow cats and then we will dyno tune it to max drivability and power.
They eliminated CAGS!!!!!!! That was a gremlin. Sometimes working. Sometimes not. Temperamental. I fixed a few of the more notorious ground locations and now the car runs smoother and my lights are brighter and cags works full time now. Reverse lockout still a 50 50 shot, but im going to throw a new solenoid in.
The other codes are
A P0118 ECT voltage high which seems to be the sensor, however its reading logical numbers so maybe a wiring issue? I am stil suspicious of the ECT sensor being 10 years old.
And the 2 codes for brake circuit high and bpp not calibrated. It was suggested the codes for that may be solinoids leaking in the abs switch.
The p0420 and p0430 codes have been removed.
The last 2 im stumpped.
Trying to clear a few codes and trouble shoot them.
C0278 and C0284.
C0278 is brake position switch not calibrated.
C0284 is brake circuit high whatever that means.
I have replaced my BPP twice. It used to have a code for brake over voltage, this has cleared with both of the new units and returns with the old unit.
The new message it displays is "stability system ready" on the dic when I go to program/calibrate the switch.
Im at a loss here.
Traction control is disabled, I cannot turn it on at all. No cruise control either. The TPMS sensors have been, "forgotten" and they read --- instead of psi.
Suggestions on possible wire related issues?
Next step is replacment of body control module and ecm. Neither of which I am looking forward to. The tuners verified the ecm/pcm before tuning.
Any help yall?
-Byron
Last edited by Byron; 10-15-2016 at 09:31 PM.
10-15-2016, 06:45 PM
#6
ECT - replace the coolant temp sensor. My guess is it is corroded with typical Dexcool funk. Not pricey, replace it, check the connector, flush the coolant.
How old is the battery? Are you getting good voltage into the EBCM/pump? I'd make CERTAIN I had a strong battery, clean cables, good grounds, and clean the plug/connector into the EBCM. Do that no matter what. I might replace the brake switch next just for the heck of it and to rule it out. I have a hunch it's the EBCM/ABS module but that obviously isn't troubleshooting. You can throw an ebay used one at it for $100 and your time and you might get lucky. Slinging parts ain't diagnosing but I often do it and get it right about 75% of the time. Sometimes I pay someone else to diagnose and then repair myself. Sometimes I just dump it on someone else if I am stumped or overwhelmed at work. I know what my time is worth and so I make the call by comparing the cost to my schedule and budget at the moment. FWIW, a new ABS module runs AROUND $600 new. Sometimes you can get them rebuilt for around half that. Once you get it sorted, flush your brake fluid every two years and keep the hydraulic side of the brake system in better shape longer. Good luck and let us know what you find. Sounds like you have a lot of separate issues with this car but are closing in on it.
How old is the battery? Are you getting good voltage into the EBCM/pump? I'd make CERTAIN I had a strong battery, clean cables, good grounds, and clean the plug/connector into the EBCM. Do that no matter what. I might replace the brake switch next just for the heck of it and to rule it out. I have a hunch it's the EBCM/ABS module but that obviously isn't troubleshooting. You can throw an ebay used one at it for $100 and your time and you might get lucky. Slinging parts ain't diagnosing but I often do it and get it right about 75% of the time. Sometimes I pay someone else to diagnose and then repair myself. Sometimes I just dump it on someone else if I am stumped or overwhelmed at work. I know what my time is worth and so I make the call by comparing the cost to my schedule and budget at the moment. FWIW, a new ABS module runs AROUND $600 new. Sometimes you can get them rebuilt for around half that. Once you get it sorted, flush your brake fluid every two years and keep the hydraulic side of the brake system in better shape longer. Good luck and let us know what you find. Sounds like you have a lot of separate issues with this car but are closing in on it.
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10-16-2016, 01:35 PM
#11
10-16-2016, 11:30 PM
#12
Got the 2 ground points on the frame near the radiator cleaned up last night.
2 wierd issues gone now. First was no matter how good the tune it would fart and pop and had a minor hesitation. This is now completely gone and smooth.
The second issue is that when reved above 2,500 rpm, with parking brake applied the doors would lock and all the bells and buzzers went off continuously until vehicle shut down.
This is now gone.
I found a extra wire spliced into the #1 injector that runs under the air box and into the firewall. Any idea what it could be for? The remote start system has been removed and I'm wondering if this could be a remnant of that.
Pardon the dust. Might have to zoom in a bit.
-Byron
2 wierd issues gone now. First was no matter how good the tune it would fart and pop and had a minor hesitation. This is now completely gone and smooth.
The second issue is that when reved above 2,500 rpm, with parking brake applied the doors would lock and all the bells and buzzers went off continuously until vehicle shut down.
This is now gone.
I found a extra wire spliced into the #1 injector that runs under the air box and into the firewall. Any idea what it could be for? The remote start system has been removed and I'm wondering if this could be a remnant of that.
Pardon the dust. Might have to zoom in a bit.
-Byron
10-17-2016, 07:42 AM
#13
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****, was this a project car that you picked up, never heard of that craziness? for the C0284, when it says circuit is high, I would think your computer is seeing a 1 or "High" instead of a 0 or "Low" or in other words your getting 12v through a circuit when you shouldn't. Not a 100% sure, still learning about the computers in these cars. Which kind of goes along with the brake over voltage you had. As for your tpms, when is the last time you've changed them? they are usually only good for 5 years or so. There a trick to program them if I remember right for GM, gotta hold the lock and unlock button on the fob for a few seconds or until you hear the horn honk twice, then you start with the driver side front tire, depressurize the tire until the car honks and fill it back up with air, go clock wise from there, this will tell you at least if the tpms are even working.
10-17-2016, 08:01 AM
#14
The tpms sensors are new. Still won't program.
I have a tech 2 in the trunk. It's how I was able to get it to forget about the tpms.
I'll look into opening up the abs module this weekend, but it's not wet or leaking or particularly dirty. I'm hoping for a little corrosion on the pins for an easy fix.
The car was a work car for the previous owner who did not do much proper maintenance. I live in Dubai so finding a proper mechanic is a crap shoot at best.
Since May it's had all factory recalls done, cs cradle mounts, engine mounts, all bushings by cs save the shock bushings and sway bar bushings, ls7 clutch, kW variant 3, electrical work, more electrical work, gutted cats, hodgepodge exhaust of leftover parts ( Corsa or borla soon) new tires, new cs 5 lug conversion, new cs shifter bushings, new coolant reservoir, new headlights, new plugs and wires, cs cradle mounts, .............. A bunch more and a very nice tune that is in progress.
On the way now is new coolant temp sensor, new wiper motor, regular CTS armrest, tie rod ends and end links, upper and lower ball joints, front and rear end links.
Waiting to install an advanced keys ak105 in the trunk.
As of today the car has about 150,000 kilometers on it. I picked it up for cheap so I don't mind spending a little to get it where I want it.
It also happens to be my daily driver for a 1 hr commute so I am timing my maintenance around my weekly car pool and shop with lift timings.
-Byron
I have a tech 2 in the trunk. It's how I was able to get it to forget about the tpms.
I'll look into opening up the abs module this weekend, but it's not wet or leaking or particularly dirty. I'm hoping for a little corrosion on the pins for an easy fix.
The car was a work car for the previous owner who did not do much proper maintenance. I live in Dubai so finding a proper mechanic is a crap shoot at best.
Since May it's had all factory recalls done, cs cradle mounts, engine mounts, all bushings by cs save the shock bushings and sway bar bushings, ls7 clutch, kW variant 3, electrical work, more electrical work, gutted cats, hodgepodge exhaust of leftover parts ( Corsa or borla soon) new tires, new cs 5 lug conversion, new cs shifter bushings, new coolant reservoir, new headlights, new plugs and wires, cs cradle mounts, .............. A bunch more and a very nice tune that is in progress.
On the way now is new coolant temp sensor, new wiper motor, regular CTS armrest, tie rod ends and end links, upper and lower ball joints, front and rear end links.
Waiting to install an advanced keys ak105 in the trunk.
As of today the car has about 150,000 kilometers on it. I picked it up for cheap so I don't mind spending a little to get it where I want it.
It also happens to be my daily driver for a 1 hr commute so I am timing my maintenance around my weekly car pool and shop with lift timings.
-Byron
Last edited by Byron; 10-17-2016 at 08:09 AM.
10-17-2016, 08:12 AM
#15
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Well at least your doing the right thing by getting it done right, your problem with the tpms may be resolved with the EBCM as well, at least, the code just says EBCM malfunction, so you actually may kill a flock of birds with one stone, I hope you do get lucky and just find some crapped out pins. Just a heads up for your CS bushings, I had to cut a 1/8" channel on the outside of the core to help channel some grease flow to the bushing flange and the washers on the front lower CA, grease wasn't getting in between the bushing flange and washer and made a terrible popping noise because of it. Also, from my understand, an easy 5 lug swap would be to get the base cts hubs and just drill out the pattern in the rotors correct? Might be cheaper than going 1k conversion kit route.
10-17-2016, 08:18 AM
#16
My old rotors and hubs were converted by a third world mechanic.
I wanted a known good configuration, had to be turnkey solution. So I went with new Camaro SS rotors front and back with the parking brake adapter and cs hubs.
I took advantage of the sale at gm Arabia for a saftey campaign locally on braking parts. 4 oem Camaro rotors and new stock pads. Not bad for ~$500. If I bought centric blanks and shipped it here I'd be double or triple that number.
-Byron
I wanted a known good configuration, had to be turnkey solution. So I went with new Camaro SS rotors front and back with the parking brake adapter and cs hubs.
I took advantage of the sale at gm Arabia for a saftey campaign locally on braking parts. 4 oem Camaro rotors and new stock pads. Not bad for ~$500. If I bought centric blanks and shipped it here I'd be double or triple that number.
-Byron
10-17-2016, 12:44 PM
#18
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A few websites show that they do,
http://www.autopartsfair.com/cadilla...odulepump.html
don't know much about that website, but even eBay shows that they are compatible
http://www.autopartsfair.com/cadilla...odulepump.html
don't know much about that website, but even eBay shows that they are compatible
11-05-2016, 05:38 AM
#19
So after removing the ABS module I found corrosion on the plug side.
Cleaned it up and now I have 2 codes left that won't clear.
C0284 brake pedal position sensor circuit high.
C0278 Brake pedal position sensor not calibrated.
Im stumpped. BPP is new, stering position sensor is good and tests ok with tech 2. I have tried 2 seperate BPP sensors. Both fail calibration.
Only other codes on the car are burned out MIL light and left front pretensioner circuit high.
Im now at a total loss of which direction to head.
We are going to throw it up on the lift and run the tcs system test on the tech 2.
We will try rebleeding the brakes, and using the automated bleed on the tech 2 to test the system. The tech at the shop believes this may help. At this point why not.
No Idea where to proceed from there, but hopefully the tests will reveal something so I know where to go next.
-Byron
Cleaned it up and now I have 2 codes left that won't clear.
C0284 brake pedal position sensor circuit high.
C0278 Brake pedal position sensor not calibrated.
Im stumpped. BPP is new, stering position sensor is good and tests ok with tech 2. I have tried 2 seperate BPP sensors. Both fail calibration.
Only other codes on the car are burned out MIL light and left front pretensioner circuit high.
Im now at a total loss of which direction to head.
We are going to throw it up on the lift and run the tcs system test on the tech 2.
We will try rebleeding the brakes, and using the automated bleed on the tech 2 to test the system. The tech at the shop believes this may help. At this point why not.
No Idea where to proceed from there, but hopefully the tests will reveal something so I know where to go next.
-Byron
Last edited by Byron; 11-05-2016 at 05:46 AM.