tnw

Some research turned up this hurst short shifter: http://a.co/hA0IX07

I'd much rather keep the stock shift ****. I just want to fix the slop in the shifter. Is this my only option? It's a little pricy and doesn't allow me to keep the stock look. Any other options you all can share with me?

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

You have to have a modified one, just buying that is not gonna work. Brian is modifying them and he can take your stick and weld it to the hurst you you can retain a oem look.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

This is your man and your shifter:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...007-cts-v.html

isis

iTrader: (1)

If you want to stay cheaper people have simply lengthened the bottom part of the stock shifter. I don't know if Azn or Brian still do this but it was less than half of the hurst upgraded piece. Maybe watch the classifieds for those or a katech (sp?) one. Pretty much the same deal

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I got the Azn shifter and the CS bushings. It's not the greatest, but it's acceptable. An f-body friend was still surprised how long the throw was even after being shortened. I don't mind the row. His is like an inch between gears, haha.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Before a friend of mine picked up the pedders gto he went through a few of them, one had a b&m ripper shifter and good god! That had the shortest throw I have ever felt. It was a challenge to find neutral.

Our shifters will never be anywhere close to that unless mgw decided to make one (not gonna happen) even with the hurst and the cs mount bushings the shifter still leaves something to be desired. By no means knocking Brian's shifter as it's light years better than what I had. It just is what it is with the design. Was still money well spent.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you can't do a T-56 Magnum XL, 316 stainless or 954 bronze bushings, precision shoulder bolts, stainless roll pins, elbow pins, and new seals go a long way toward eliminating slop.

You will need an delrin noise-isolating upper shifter shaft, however. The direct linkage allows you to hear the transmission gear tooth frequency.



































While you're at it, get rid of the skip shift solenoid. Less weight.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

If your setup is all stock, it's highly likely that the original rubber shifter rail bushings are shredded or even completely gone. Replacements from Revshift (http://www.revshift.com/product-p/sbb-ctsv.htm) or Creative Steel (https://creative-steel.com/shop/04-0...fter-bushings/) will make a huge difference if the stock bushings are seriously degraded.

There's certainly more than can be done if your intention is to remove every last ounce of slop in the shifter assembly, but if nothing has been done to the car up to this point, start with those bushings. That may be all you need to do to solve your problem; I know that was the case with my brother and his '05 V.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Yep, shifter rails is a big one. The other two are the captured solid pin in the universal joint and that E-clipped pin that passes through the joint (can be removed and replaced as shown above). Fix those three (polyurethane bushings, roll pins, and shoulder bolts are your friends), and you'll dial out more than 50% of the lateral slop. Some of the slop can be attributed to the machine tolerances in the transmission and the slippage in the #95 bronze ball/cup in the top. It's hard if not impossible to fix those.

The Creative Steel bushings are barely stiffer than the stock bushings. Had 'em and threw them away. The UUC bushings sold by Luke @ Lindsay are decent, but I prefer the harder Revshift bushings @ 80A durometer. Been through 4 sets of UUC bushings and still on my first set of Revshift bushings. The only thing they're missing is a little lip on the small end to capture the remote linkage plate like the UUC bushings have.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Fuzzy, any way to get the brass cup out without dropping the trans again? I do get a good bit of gear noise but I attributed it to my shifter ball.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The brass cup won't do anything. Installing bronze or stainless linkage arm mounts and shifter base bushings will make it noisier, on the other hand.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

bad wording, i was just pointing out the gear noise. in regards to the last but of shifter slop.

isis

iTrader: (1)

I have these and agree. It's just enough correction. If that's the basic goal that's the cheap option.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Cheap shifter and bushings in the classifieds:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...l#post19511579

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I just wouldn't go cheap. The shifter is the most direct link next you your **** for driving experience. And in the V1 it's horrible. At least with EVERY bushing changed and the hurst it is night and day. And worth every cent. Only issue is needing to remove the trans to do them all.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I agree. And it's actually quite difficult to make a shifter upgrade expensive, compared to anything else on the car.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Is it wrong I'm still considering cutting a small hole in the tunnel to knock the pin out instead of pulling it back out....

tobylazur

I don't want to derail, but while we're on the topic of bushings, I'm having trouble getting my car into second when shifting slowly. It's like I have to pull the shifter down, then give it an extra bump to get it to engage.

I'm assuming this is slop in all the bushings more than a problem with the trans. The car has 110k on it. Which bushings should I start with? Which can I install without dropping the transmission?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

It sounds like you need to bleed your clutch. Really bad bushings will make it hard to tell which gear you're putting the transmission in, and can sometimes prevent you from fully engaging a gear detent (allowing the transmission to pop out of gear). Bad clutch hydraulics can make it hard to shift--particularly when there's a big rotational speed difference between your transmission input and output shafts.

When shifting slowly, you're giving the engine time to spin down, and the increased difference in RPM means the synchros have to work harder when you finally start to throw the transmission into gear. With a clutch hydraulic system in perfect working order, this is just an annoyance. However, if your clutch isn't completely disengaging, the synchros are going to have a tremendously hard time equalizing the speeds, and you'll need a lot of effort to get the transmission in gear.

If you find that bleeding the clutch doesn't cut it, you'll probably need a few new parts, including a clutch master. I replaced my OEM clutch master at about 15k miles and the seals looked pretty bad. I can't even imagine what yours looks like.

vroom_vroom

iTrader: (5)

Can the shifter rod be unbolted from the trans with the tail lowered? Killing time at work but if you could get it lowered enough to do that you could unbolt the shifter assembly and drive the pin out with it off the trans?