Clutch Position sensor replacement. Easy way.
02-04-2017, 08:52 PM
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Clutch Position sensor replacement. Easy way. I just replaced the Clutch Position Sensor that throws the check engine light and turns off cruise control. It was pretty straight forward, the sensor is located up between the clutch pedal and the ebrake pedal, it is on a metal rod that can't be detached. I just took a few pictures with my phone of what it looked like up there, then with my hand I went up and unclipped the plastic cover, slipped it off the rod, unhooked the harness, plugged the new sensor in, slipped it onto the rob, clipped the plastic cover back in place bam done. People say this is a horrible pain to do, I am wondering if I am missing something or do people just not think to do it this way? I feel like I am missing something.
02-04-2017, 11:15 PM
#2
I popped mine off and back on in 5seconds... Because everyone said it was soooo hard.. then when I actually got a new one after my.cruise had an issue... I for the life of me could not get the new one back on and idk why... Then I couldn't get up out of the car... Jesus... You'd swear I was 70...
02-04-2017, 11:50 PM
#3
I just replaced the Clutch Position Sensor that throws the check engine light and turns off cruise control. It was pretty straight forward, the sensor is located up between the clutch pedal and the ebrake pedal, it is on a metal rod that can't be detached. I just took a few pictures with my phone of what it looked like up there, then with my hand I went up and unclipped the plastic cover, slipped it off the rod, unhooked the harness, plugged the new sensor in, slipped it onto the rob, clipped the plastic cover back in place bam done. People say this is a horrible pain to do, I am wondering if I am missing something or do people just not think to do it this way? I feel like I am missing something.
02-05-2017, 12:47 PM
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Here are pics. This is the pic I took while trying to locate the sensor, you can see it on the top right.
Here is the sensor after it was twisted half a turn, and the plastic clip was removed, all done blind after I practiced on the new sensor.
Here is the new sensor in place and reassembled.
02-05-2017, 09:29 PM
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No, not a small guy, 5'11, husky build, hands are pretty decent size with long fingers. The sensor is really not in that bad of a spot really. I think the problem is most people try to fit themselves under the dash to see what they are doing, I instead took pictures with my cell phone to see what I was looking for, then felt where it was at, after a little finagling I realized I need to do it blind. I then looked at the new sensor and practiced removing the clip with my eyes closed, then did so with the old sensor, and got it all off. Really it isn't as bad as people claim it to be, I think the worst part would be trying to fit yourself under the dash and doing it by sight instead of feel.
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02-06-2017, 06:28 AM
#8
No, not a small guy, 5'11, husky build, hands are pretty decent size with long fingers. The sensor is really not in that bad of a spot really. I think the problem is most people try to fit themselves under the dash to see what they are doing, I instead took pictures with my cell phone to see what I was looking for, then felt where it was at, after a little finagling I realized I need to do it blind. I then looked at the new sensor and practiced removing the clip with my eyes closed, then did so with the old sensor, and got it all off. Really it isn't as bad as people claim it to be, I think the worst part would be trying to fit yourself under the dash and doing it by sight instead of feel.
oh, wait, I actually have to figure why it continually throws codes...slinging parts at it didn't fix it...
02-06-2017, 01:06 PM
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Yea that is a different story, if the sensor is replaced and still throws the code, that is another headache altogether. I am just talking about replacing the sensor. I am getting my code cleared now, hopefully this will do the trick, if not I will be in the same boat as you.
02-06-2017, 08:21 PM
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Success! Check engine light got cleared, then cruise control started working, meaning the sensor is functioning! Now I can get the car smogged and will no longer have issues associated with bad sensor.I am very relieved, if this wasn't the fix, it was going to be terrible troubleshooting.
When inspecting the old sensor, I noticed the springs that load the tab inside the sensor were all squished together to where they didn't push back more than half way without being all tangled, that appears to be the issue, cheap design on the part with cheap springs that crumple over themselves given enough time.
I made this post to motivate people who will also be doing this to try it themselves and save money, people find our threads in google search results, and I hope they find this helpful. I know I was on the edge whether or not I could do it on my own, until I saw instructions on CadillacForums showing an easy way. Even then though half the people there didn't think it was possible or easy to fix.
Here are the directions I used.
When inspecting the old sensor, I noticed the springs that load the tab inside the sensor were all squished together to where they didn't push back more than half way without being all tangled, that appears to be the issue, cheap design on the part with cheap springs that crumple over themselves given enough time.
I made this post to motivate people who will also be doing this to try it themselves and save money, people find our threads in google search results, and I hope they find this helpful. I know I was on the edge whether or not I could do it on my own, until I saw instructions on CadillacForums showing an easy way. Even then though half the people there didn't think it was possible or easy to fix.
Here are the directions I used.
Originally Posted by toberting22
Hey everyone, I know this is an old thread, but I just wanted to add a tip for anyone attempting this install.
I did this in about 15 mins. I used no tools other than an LED pen light that I held in my mouth. I think the trick is to push your E brake all the way in, and also to take the sensor off the clutch input shaft before disconnecting the the electrical connector.
So your steps should be:
1) Remove the insulator panel by squeezing the two tabs and sliding the panel toward the pedal (the unit will want to slide as well, but it stops eventually and the panel will keep going).
2) Push the sensor off the input shaft.
3) Disconnect the electrical connector by pushing the little release pin toward the connector itself and gently pulling the sensor unit to separate.
4) Install new unit in exact opposite order
My knuckles are a little cut up, but my car no longer over-revs, my check engine light is gone (after I deleted it with my OBD II) and my cruise control works again.... worth it!
GOOD LUCK!!!!
I did this in about 15 mins. I used no tools other than an LED pen light that I held in my mouth. I think the trick is to push your E brake all the way in, and also to take the sensor off the clutch input shaft before disconnecting the the electrical connector.
So your steps should be:
1) Remove the insulator panel by squeezing the two tabs and sliding the panel toward the pedal (the unit will want to slide as well, but it stops eventually and the panel will keep going).
2) Push the sensor off the input shaft.
3) Disconnect the electrical connector by pushing the little release pin toward the connector itself and gently pulling the sensor unit to separate.
4) Install new unit in exact opposite order
My knuckles are a little cut up, but my car no longer over-revs, my check engine light is gone (after I deleted it with my OBD II) and my cruise control works again.... worth it!
GOOD LUCK!!!!
02-09-2017, 06:28 AM
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on the one you removed, were the springs broken inside? do you still have it?
i'm curious as to how these fail for most people. Mine had broken springs, but the linear pot was just fine.
i'm curious as to how these fail for most people. Mine had broken springs, but the linear pot was just fine.