Kringle

I am new to this, and still do not have my car shopping around for a decent 06-07 with low miles and no work or damage done so that I know exactly what is in it. I was wondering if this build here was still viable?
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...77346268204652

also are there better parts i could use for around the same price range? after purchasing the car i will have around 6k for basic upgrades any advice would be helpful.

also is this better than the FAST 102?
http://www.carid.com/2004-cadillac-c...-14144807.html

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

AFR heads, FAST intake, and medium cam will get you about 460whp. I realize it was an engine dyno, but 572hp sounds a tad high for stock cubes, though it's not that far off. Either way, that setup would make for a very fun ride.

Kringle

Thanks, is there anything i could swap out or go bigger on to get around 500whp?
Also what do you mean by cubes? I am new to this, will be my first build and im trying to learn all i can before going into it

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

cubic inches

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

If you want 500whp all motor you're gonna have to drop some coin on a stroker. A 427 is the easiest but you could do it with a slightly smaller motor. If you are new to the cts-v I would say don't worry about power until you get the rest of the car sorted out. It has a lot of quirks from Cadillac that need to be fixed first.

Kringle

oh ok, other than boreing and stroking is there much else i could do besides what is listed on the build? i was thinking about a bigger cam but i dont know much about compression ratios and dont wanna mess something up. was also looking into afr 243s but unsure of the difference.
If there is anywhere you know that i could go to research this info a little more i would greatly appreciate it

Kringle

oh ok, didnt realize there would be anything wrong with all the good reviews on the cars. I am coming from a stock 2012 camero 2SS, will i notice to much of a difference? I am in need of a sedan now, and the V seems like the best bang for the buck

silver1r

iTrader: (1)

The V is an awesome car. But like said above, if you plan on making power and trying to put it down, you will need to focus on those first. Plan on a 8.8 conversion, clutch, and radiator. All things that will give you problems if driven hard even on stock power.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

stock to stock they are basically the same in power and speed. If you like to do dig races and beat on the car, what they said is true above. If you drive it smoother and more like the car was designed for like a road track vehicle, the stock diff isn't a huge issue. That's all up to you. People drop a lot of coin on cams and heads and install/builds but N/A upgrades don't make sense to me as far as gains vs. $$$$ spent on this car.

05RavenV

Instead of going the power route right away I've been putting my money in beefing up the car first. All new mounts CS motor mounts transmission mount rear diff bushing. BMR pinion support to keep the rear diff from hitting the body. LS7 clutch and supporting mods. I've done a muffler delete with X pipe so far and a Hurst short throw. I'm in my car for about two grand but I don't want to be like my father in law and spend a lot of money on horsepower and blow his rear end. Just my advice.

Kringle

I plan on using it mainly as a vehicle to take my wife out on date nights/take to a few meets with local car clubs once done with it. I do not plan on running qtrs or racing it hard at all. Is the output from N/A not worth it on this car? i do not plan on spending more than 6k on upgrades for now, i have a 30,000 budget atm but do not want to come anywhere near it if i dont have too in order to achieve a daily drivable 500whp

edit: $30,000 includes the price of the car, so probably about $13,000 after purchase but i dont want to spend all that, would like to have quite a bit left over

Kringle

Would there be more work required than what you have done? like i said im new to all of this. Most of what my car will be used for is a really strong daily driver that I will rarely ever race and use more for show, just want the power because i have always wanted a car to put down near 500whp

05RavenV

To get the major issues ironed out for the most part yes. With that much horsepower you will destroy your motor mounts and you will need new rear diff mounts. But to get you near that number you will need at least 11 grand well that was my quote from Vengeance that's including cam a stall, heads and a few other mods I can't remember they told me I could get 500 to 525 to the tires. Without beefing the car up. Also a supercharger setup around 10 grand also quoted by them for around 525 on the motor. That's installed and everything. It's a nice thought to want that much hp but it's gonna cost a lot more than 6k to get it there unless you're talking on the motor then 6k can get you a maggie or a head and cam package with full exhaust with a tune. Hope that helps

Kringle

thanks for help, is there anywhere i can get a full listing of the parts i would need to replace in the drive train in order to effectivly put down 500whp without tearing it apart? i already priced my engine build at 5500-6500 depending on if i can do 90% of the work myself, if i get the car for a decent price should leave me about 5-6k i could spend on drive train

ryridesmotox

Motor mounts- UMI, they are the only ones I have seen on here that have zero failures. I've looked over LS1tech and a few other places.
Trans mounts- Creative steel, revshift
Clutch- LS7 if your end goals are over 500whp, you'll need something more substantial.
Rear cradle bushings- creative steel and revshift.
Ford 9 - GeForce
Ford 8.8- creative steel

most guys go 8.8 its more of a drop in. I like their kit with everything except the diff and housing since I'll be getting my own.

After you get all that **** taken care of, then do power adders. If you want to save money after all those bushings and rear end and clutch parts, just have the heads machined and install a mild cam with a 150 shot of nitrous. Its a lot less than forced induction or a big motor build. Have it tuned right and it will run good for a long time. That would put you 500whp+ when you are on spray. That'd be a pretty badass street car.

A bit of advice... More than once in this thread you said that you're new to this. I wouldn't build a motor 90% if you are still just scratching the surface. Mounts, bushings, and bolting in a rear end is one thing. Taking a motor apart is a little daunting the first time. Source a good local machinist if you really want the lower end worked on. They usually have good rates, talk to local guys and see what they recommend for a good machine shop that will put the lower end together. I've built a few old LT motors, I always had someone assemble it. They balance everything perfect, line hone the mains, clean, deburr everything, gap the rings and bearings properly, it really is money well spent... If you find a good shop. Not trying to discourage you, just trying to help out. I blew up my first LT1 because I didn't clearance the main bearing properly. It therefore, spun a bearing dropped oil pressure and that really sucked. I was climbing a hill so I was flogging the old girl at the time too, 4wd, slinging mud into the stratosphere. Ruined a cam, and bearings too because of the oil pressure dropping to zero and I was wide open. I had to make it up or risk rolling the truck.

Kringle

Wow that was some well needed information, i can pull a motor apart and put them back together rather well just never done any machining myself. i will check with the mechanics for around here, not sure on spray, never even looked into it but if it is the cheaper route then i might think about going that way, i have a friend here trying to convince me to just use a V as a DD with very slight mods (headers exaust and intake) and save up for a C6 for a toy going to put some thought into that also

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Buy a v2

ryridesmotox

Lolol easy way out. Some people enjoy hot rodding things. Although, he does have the funds to get near V2 money. If I had $30k in hand I'd look for a V2. One might pop up.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

LS7 clutch will definitely hold 500rwhp. it grabbed great and held fine on my old car with 520rwhp.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

If you're going to turn the v1 into a v2 may as well buy a v2. I like my v1 because its affordable to buy and operate which a v2 isn't and neither will a v1 with all the mods listed above.