Which shifter linkage part is most-likely to cause fore-aft slop?
09-30-2014, 11:15 PM
#1
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Which shifter linkage part is most-likely to cause fore-aft slop? Which of the many shifter linkage deficiencies is most-likely to cause fore-aft slop?
I have the side-to-side shored up but as an example when I put the car in 1st or 3rd it will click into gear firmly but then I can push the shifter forward a good bit (for arguments sake I'll say an inch). It feels almost like I'm stretching something but as I logically think about all of the parts and pieces of the linkage I can't figure out which one could possibly allow that to happen.
For the record I have a 2nd gen Katech Shifter, CS rail bushings, and the bushings at the base replaced.
I've read through all of the shifter threads over the years but I feel like I'm missing something with the fore-aft slop.
I have the side-to-side shored up but as an example when I put the car in 1st or 3rd it will click into gear firmly but then I can push the shifter forward a good bit (for arguments sake I'll say an inch). It feels almost like I'm stretching something but as I logically think about all of the parts and pieces of the linkage I can't figure out which one could possibly allow that to happen.
For the record I have a 2nd gen Katech Shifter, CS rail bushings, and the bushings at the base replaced.
I've read through all of the shifter threads over the years but I feel like I'm missing something with the fore-aft slop.
10-01-2014, 03:49 PM
#2
I installed Brian's shifter (07CTS-V), his bushings at the shifter base as well as at the middle linkage point, CS poly shifter mount bushings, Home Depot bushings on the trans case, tack welded the lateral pivot and installed a brass shift isolator cup inside the trans. After all of that, the shifter slop was pretty much gone, but it was binding in the side to side motion. I suspected the tack weld on the lateral pivot point.
After I had the trans pulled for a reverse syncro fix, my builder said the shift isolator cup was way too tight and was causing my binding. He said he never used them and replaced it with a new OEM plastic cup. Got the car back and the side to side motion was smooth as silk with no additional slop. My only remaining complaint now is difficulty shifting into 6th gear. It takes a lot of effort to bring the shifter down into that position. I again suspect the tack weld (even though I incorrectly blamed it before). It's not a transmission issue as all blocker rings and syncros with any excessive wear were replaced during my refersh.
I can live with it as is, but if my trans ever come out of the car again, I'll grind off the tack weld, drill out the pivot pin and replace it with a larger diameter pin restoring the original freedom of movement, without the slop induced by the original OEM design. That method has been documented in one or two other posts.
After I had the trans pulled for a reverse syncro fix, my builder said the shift isolator cup was way too tight and was causing my binding. He said he never used them and replaced it with a new OEM plastic cup. Got the car back and the side to side motion was smooth as silk with no additional slop. My only remaining complaint now is difficulty shifting into 6th gear. It takes a lot of effort to bring the shifter down into that position. I again suspect the tack weld (even though I incorrectly blamed it before). It's not a transmission issue as all blocker rings and syncros with any excessive wear were replaced during my refersh.
I can live with it as is, but if my trans ever come out of the car again, I'll grind off the tack weld, drill out the pivot pin and replace it with a larger diameter pin restoring the original freedom of movement, without the slop induced by the original OEM design. That method has been documented in one or two other posts.
10-01-2014, 10:58 PM
#4
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Lots of good info in this thread. It won't come up in a search.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...m-shifter.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...m-shifter.html
Also, I couldn't tell from the other thread, is the consensus to weld or not weld the pivot?
10-02-2014, 09:54 AM
#5
playing devil's advocate, if the weld is causing my 6th gear difficulty, I still prefer the current setup and feel vs. stock and don't consider it a big hindrance. I would only attempt to do something about it if the trans had to come back out of the car for some other reason. Shifting into 6th only happens while cruising on the highway and not something I ever do quickly, like 1-4.
10-03-2014, 01:14 PM
#7
playing devil's advocate, if the weld is causing my 6th gear difficulty, I still prefer the current setup and feel vs. stock and don't consider it a big hindrance. I would only attempt to do something about it if the trans had to come back out of the car for some other reason. Shifting into 6th only happens while cruising on the highway and not something I ever do quickly, like 1-4.
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10-08-2014, 12:07 AM
#9
Mine is welded too, no issues.
Looking back, the only thing I'd do different is leave the plastic cup in the trans and not replace with brass. I feel it made shifting overly difficult and added vibration, with no major improvement in precision. The plastic cup is very durable. I stood on mine while on it's side and it didn't deform or break.
That said, the brass cup was a critical piece in eliminating that last bit of fore aft slop. Welding that pin assembly will help alot too..I'd do that first. Tons of slop in that joint.
The whole linkage was designed to eliminate vibration, and it does that well..but it's also like stirring a bowl of mashed potatoes.
Last edited by Cadzilla; 10-08-2014 at 12:18 AM.
