2006 CTS-V Clutch MASTER cylinder change
#1
2006 CTS-V Clutch MASTER cylinder change
Has anyone ever replaced the CLUTCH MASTER cylinder on their V? Looking for tips. Long story, but mine is bad and I'm having a bear getting the old one out.
It needs to be turned 1/8 way clockwise to get it out of the firewall but (1) the master line that connects to the slave line hits the brake booster when I rotate the clutch master and (2) I don't want to pull the booster unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary. I already replaced the clutch, slave, and trans. To have full access where I'm confident I could get it out, I would need to pull the strut brace, brake master, brake booster, coolant expansion tank, etc. Difficult or impossible to go from the bottom end. Is there a shortcut?
It needs to be turned 1/8 way clockwise to get it out of the firewall but (1) the master line that connects to the slave line hits the brake booster when I rotate the clutch master and (2) I don't want to pull the booster unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary. I already replaced the clutch, slave, and trans. To have full access where I'm confident I could get it out, I would need to pull the strut brace, brake master, brake booster, coolant expansion tank, etc. Difficult or impossible to go from the bottom end. Is there a shortcut?
#4
Thanks for the replies guys. First I rotated the master as far as it would go COUNTER-clockwise. I went through the triangular holes from underneath the car to access the master to slave line. Since I have larger hands, I rigged up a clip removal tool (laughs welcome). Once the retaining clip was off, I was able to yank the line off and go in with a 19mm deep well (mine was 19mm) on pivot extensions to get the fitting off off the master body. Then, by laying on top of the engine I could reach in behind the coolant tank to rotate the clutch master out.
Yes, I was able to leave the coolant tank, brake master, booster, and strut brace in place. You guys are way better than a Haynes manual.
Now, wish me luck getting the new line on with the new master in place.
Cheers!
Yes, I was able to leave the coolant tank, brake master, booster, and strut brace in place. You guys are way better than a Haynes manual.
Now, wish me luck getting the new line on with the new master in place.
Cheers!
#7
OP - there's a fella here who goes by the name Philistine. He makes an adjustable aftermarket clutch master for our V1's using a modified Tilton cylinder. Have you looked into this option at all? Even if you don't go with his part, he'd probably have all kinds of useful tips for install. Just a suggestion.
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#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
just replaced mine as well as my clutch position switch.. pulled the wiper motor, windshield seals, wiper blades to remove the full wiper assembly. then loosened, capped and moved the brake jug to get to the master! from that point it was just a matter of twist and pull once all lines had been removed/ plugged. btw, don't forget to buy new hose clams too! oh, and putting the new clutch switch in was harder to me then the master being replaced :-\ second time I've had too and just as frustrating.. lol
#9
Has anyone ever replaced the CLUTCH MASTER cylinder on their V? Looking for tips. Long story, but mine is bad and I'm having a bear getting the old one out.
It needs to be turned 1/8 way clockwise to get it out of the firewall but (1) the master line that connects to the slave line hits the brake booster when I rotate the clutch master and (2) I don't want to pull the booster unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary. I already replaced the clutch, slave, and trans. To have full access where I'm confident I could get it out, I would need to pull the strut brace, brake master, brake booster, coolant expansion tank, etc. Difficult or impossible to go from the bottom end. Is there a shortcut?
It needs to be turned 1/8 way clockwise to get it out of the firewall but (1) the master line that connects to the slave line hits the brake booster when I rotate the clutch master and (2) I don't want to pull the booster unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary. I already replaced the clutch, slave, and trans. To have full access where I'm confident I could get it out, I would need to pull the strut brace, brake master, brake booster, coolant expansion tank, etc. Difficult or impossible to go from the bottom end. Is there a shortcut?
#HaynesManualFAIL