Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

2006 CTS-V Clutch MASTER cylinder change

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Old 06-23-2015, 12:23 PM
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Default 2006 CTS-V Clutch MASTER cylinder change

Has anyone ever replaced the CLUTCH MASTER cylinder on their V? Looking for tips. Long story, but mine is bad and I'm having a bear getting the old one out.

It needs to be turned 1/8 way clockwise to get it out of the firewall but (1) the master line that connects to the slave line hits the brake booster when I rotate the clutch master and (2) I don't want to pull the booster unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary. I already replaced the clutch, slave, and trans. To have full access where I'm confident I could get it out, I would need to pull the strut brace, brake master, brake booster, coolant expansion tank, etc. Difficult or impossible to go from the bottom end. Is there a shortcut?
Old 06-23-2015, 12:43 PM
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You have to pull that line off the master to rotate it. It's a 19mm

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Old 06-23-2015, 02:04 PM
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18mm stubby wrench
Old 06-23-2015, 02:23 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. First I rotated the master as far as it would go COUNTER-clockwise. I went through the triangular holes from underneath the car to access the master to slave line. Since I have larger hands, I rigged up a clip removal tool (laughs welcome). Once the retaining clip was off, I was able to yank the line off and go in with a 19mm deep well (mine was 19mm) on pivot extensions to get the fitting off off the master body. Then, by laying on top of the engine I could reach in behind the coolant tank to rotate the clutch master out.

Yes, I was able to leave the coolant tank, brake master, booster, and strut brace in place. You guys are way better than a Haynes manual.

Now, wish me luck getting the new line on with the new master in place.

Cheers!
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Fweasel
18mm stubby wrench
19. Sitting in my toolbox.
Old 06-24-2015, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bmylez
19. Sitting in my toolbox.
Apparently I'm more stubborn and a little stronger
or just a poor memory
Old 07-04-2015, 07:31 AM
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OP - there's a fella here who goes by the name Philistine. He makes an adjustable aftermarket clutch master for our V1's using a modified Tilton cylinder. Have you looked into this option at all? Even if you don't go with his part, he'd probably have all kinds of useful tips for install. Just a suggestion.
Old 07-07-2015, 09:02 PM
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just replaced mine as well as my clutch position switch.. pulled the wiper motor, windshield seals, wiper blades to remove the full wiper assembly. then loosened, capped and moved the brake jug to get to the master! from that point it was just a matter of twist and pull once all lines had been removed/ plugged. btw, don't forget to buy new hose clams too! oh, and putting the new clutch switch in was harder to me then the master being replaced :-\ second time I've had too and just as frustrating.. lol
Old 05-08-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mswinche
Has anyone ever replaced the CLUTCH MASTER cylinder on their V? Looking for tips. Long story, but mine is bad and I'm having a bear getting the old one out.

It needs to be turned 1/8 way clockwise to get it out of the firewall but (1) the master line that connects to the slave line hits the brake booster when I rotate the clutch master and (2) I don't want to pull the booster unless it's ABSOLUTELY necessary. I already replaced the clutch, slave, and trans. To have full access where I'm confident I could get it out, I would need to pull the strut brace, brake master, brake booster, coolant expansion tank, etc. Difficult or impossible to go from the bottom end. Is there a shortcut?
I have the exact same thing happening with the line hitting the brake booster. I managed to force mine out with some vise grips, 3 strong beers, all my body weight, and then pounding on it with a screw driver and hammer from the interior but reinstalling is impossible now. I think removing that line on the master and reinstalling it is the only way it can be installed.

#HaynesManualFAIL



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