DMM

Looks as if ring land #7 finally let go. I've been going round and round with an internal engine tick for sometime now and figured it'd show itself eventually. Well, that day has come and I'm now at the point of trying to decide how far I want to go with this.

I have an iron 6.0 block that I could throw in as is, or bore and forge it first.

I could throw the 6.0 in for the time being while I stroke the existing LS6 to avoid the iron weight penalty.

Or, I could part the thing out entirely and move on to another project.

What does the community think?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Part out! Deal on and E-force already adjusted for the V1....???!!! Yeah, I want that.

How is building the 6.0 any faster than stroking the ls6?

My vote is stay alum unless the plan is for over 800whp. Which, I would
Enjoy seeing the limitations of that E-force

Edit:but also if you're stroking the ls6 you might as well go 402 instead and alum. Since the only piece you lack is the block. All else is the same. So it's not like it adds much costs, but the benefits would be awesome. So that's my vote.

GFallen

2nd in line for the E Force...

rjm27

DMM! Sorry to hear that, man. Let me know when you're going to work on that beast, if you need any help, I'm 10 minutes up the road and want to learn more myself.

I voted build the LS6, only because I'm going to end up probably doing that myself, to go forged and see how much oomph the 112hh has.

RUssell

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

need more info...

Whats you cash flow? Can you afford to just build the LS6 outright without it taking a year? If so do that...

If you're money isn't that strong, go ahead and buy the heads you need for the ls6, slap them on the LQ4 and run it until the bottom end starts to go because it really isn't worth much anyway.

What other projects do you have in mind? If you really want a vette or a classic, part this one down and go from there because this car will never be one of those. If you really think you want a V2, I'd keep going with what I've got because with the list of mods you've got, would a V2 be that much better? Not in my mind....

Good Luck!

Naf

iTrader: (1)

LS2 6.0 with LS3 heads

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

And get rid of the E-force or have to buy the square port model? That makes a ton of sense

88BlackZ-51

Id be interest in the headers if you part out or go back to stock..

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

You've come so far. Don't stock out. My vote is build that bitch.

joe_shmoe

Build the 6.0, replace the RXT with something else, and be done with it

Whatever you do, don't forget to replace the RXT

Sssnake

Forge the bottom, install piston squirters (if your block supports it), swap to an e38 controller and call it a day

hefftone

Put forged pistons/rods in LS6, with ported 317s...maybe decrease compression, increase boost. Stock cubes. Water/meth injection, nitrous for more power.
Current setup sounds pretty sick already. Save the LQ4 for something else, because going L92 from where you are now would be...undoing a lot of badassery.
Voted ls6, but not for the weight penalty.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

From pcm to e38? I am tryin to go with a e67 which came stock on the 06, and there is work to be done. I am hoping to be finished with the engine reassembly this week and install in the car. I will later route the new drysump hoses and turn the key to see if it all works...

If it works i know i will be better off vs the old pcm. Better abs control, better timing, better pe but the same maf readout...

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Id probably just do forged rods/pistons in the ls6 if the block and crank are salvageable.Then do an aftermarket casting head.

DMM

Thanks, guys. Cost is not the limiting factor at this point; time is. I've been going over this and still haven't made up my mind. It helped that I drove my fathers '13 CTS on a decent trip and I just don't like the interior, driving position, etc. Granted, it's not a V2, but I think I'm pretty sure I don't want one.

The LQ4 is from a 2000 Silverado, which means I'd have to swap cranks as the early LQ4 had a .500" longer crank as they were only installed with the 4L80e. The early blocks also had core shift issues, but 0.30" over shouldn't be a problem even if there is core shift.

I'm in Bangkok for another month so I have plenty of time to figure out that I want to do.

Does anyone have any local (MD) recommendations for a machine shop?

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

There are some local shops but just keep in mind its right in the prime of racing season so shops are backed up beyond belief if they are any good at what they do. Id consider buying a shortblock already assembled as well....in the end the extra money may be worthwhile. Last engine I had built by a shop took almost 6 months and it was the most stressful thing I dealt with car wise.

Sssnake

The operating system on the LS2 based Vs leaves a LOT to be desired. The OS in the V2s are very nice. Going to an E38 will get you one things that is driving me crazy right now, integration delay for the O2 sensors. At low throttle the fuel trims want to swing too much. If you bump the correction step size down a little it does help but there are a LOT of things like this that make tuning our OS in the E67 a PIA.

I have been looking at your thread and anxiously awaiting your results as I have considered trying an OS change to overcome some of these issues. Specifically if I went to the V2 OS it would give me support for IAT2 measurements. I am actually measuring IAT2 now but feeding it to the computer as IAT1. While not causing horrible problems you do end up with minor issues with this approach (primarily associated with a split between the MAF sensor and the IAT sensor locations).

These comments are based upon my experience with the LS2 CTS V OS. The earlier LS6 based cars may be different.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I'm still saying re-do the poll and add build 402ci with no weight penalty......

fre1102

I think you part it out and sell me that supercharger setup.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Yup. Get in line