Thinking of selling need opinions!!!!
04-28-2014, 09:58 AM
#1
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Thinking of selling need opinions!!!! For the last 2-1/2 years i have been fighting this popping and banging issue and i am finally tired of it and am seriously considering selling it and starting over. Whats y'all's opinions of what its worth and if it would be worth it for me to start all over???
The car:
2000 Z-28 T-Top car plasti dipped matte black w/ sunoco 6-1/2" ext. hood and brand new draglights all the way around.
th400 fmrvb W/T-brake
4500 9" TCI converter
Steel 3" driveshaft 44-1/2" long
7.5" 10 bolt mini spooled w/4.10's ( i have moser axles and a jegs stud girdle i just never installed them)
the car has a jegs 10 point cage in it but i did not put it thru the dash so its a lil tight to get in but fits me perfect i am only 5'7" 175lbs
it was a 12 point cage but i used the other 2 points for homemade subframes (car is stiff and leaves straight as an arrow)
oher than the rear lakewood shocks, the cage and the homemade subframes the suspension is stock.
The Engine:
383 ls1 98 block 3.905 bore mains studded
4" eagle forged crank (mains turned .010 and rod journals turned .020)
eagle 6.125 forged esp h beam rods arp 2000 rod bolts
wiseco gfx 3905 forged pistons and rings -8cc dish
rings gapped at .021 top and .024 bottom
prc 227 heads 62cc
2.06/1.60 valves
prc .675 springs
.040 cometic head gaskets
arp head bolts
comp cams 613/614 242/250 112lsa
7.5 TSP pushrods
Comp cams trunion upgrade for rocker arms
1-3/4 flowtech headers (staright headers no exhaust)
vic jr intake
1" carb spacer
1/2" nitrous plate plugged off
street hp 950cfm holley carb squared 84jets pv plugs rear extensions 50cc acc. pump in front only 37 squirter in front and 31 in back
msd 6ls box 36 degrees total timing and 30 initial timing
best pass was with a slipping first gear no trans brake and popping and banging
1.69 60ft
5.01 330ft
7.60 660ft
on a 5400ft da day
I have tried all kinds of different timing curves all different ranges of timing
all kinds of different jetting and squirters, acc. pumps, checked and double checked grounds and voltage and it still pops so i am just about done with it whats your opinion sell it (whats it worth????) Or keep messing with it (why is it popping????)
The car:
2000 Z-28 T-Top car plasti dipped matte black w/ sunoco 6-1/2" ext. hood and brand new draglights all the way around.
th400 fmrvb W/T-brake
4500 9" TCI converter
Steel 3" driveshaft 44-1/2" long
7.5" 10 bolt mini spooled w/4.10's ( i have moser axles and a jegs stud girdle i just never installed them)
the car has a jegs 10 point cage in it but i did not put it thru the dash so its a lil tight to get in but fits me perfect i am only 5'7" 175lbs
it was a 12 point cage but i used the other 2 points for homemade subframes (car is stiff and leaves straight as an arrow)
oher than the rear lakewood shocks, the cage and the homemade subframes the suspension is stock.
The Engine:
383 ls1 98 block 3.905 bore mains studded
4" eagle forged crank (mains turned .010 and rod journals turned .020)
eagle 6.125 forged esp h beam rods arp 2000 rod bolts
wiseco gfx 3905 forged pistons and rings -8cc dish
rings gapped at .021 top and .024 bottom
prc 227 heads 62cc
2.06/1.60 valves
prc .675 springs
.040 cometic head gaskets
arp head bolts
comp cams 613/614 242/250 112lsa
7.5 TSP pushrods
Comp cams trunion upgrade for rocker arms
1-3/4 flowtech headers (staright headers no exhaust)
vic jr intake
1" carb spacer
1/2" nitrous plate plugged off
street hp 950cfm holley carb squared 84jets pv plugs rear extensions 50cc acc. pump in front only 37 squirter in front and 31 in back
msd 6ls box 36 degrees total timing and 30 initial timing
best pass was with a slipping first gear no trans brake and popping and banging
1.69 60ft
5.01 330ft
7.60 660ft
on a 5400ft da day
I have tried all kinds of different timing curves all different ranges of timing
all kinds of different jetting and squirters, acc. pumps, checked and double checked grounds and voltage and it still pops so i am just about done with it whats your opinion sell it (whats it worth????) Or keep messing with it (why is it popping????)
Last edited by CarbedZ-28; 04-28-2014 at 10:13 AM.
04-28-2014, 12:46 PM
#3
Are you certain it is a carb issue and not something in the valvetrain? Maybe cam is advanced, or advanced too much??
When does it do the popping and are you sure that your carb is big enough? Or maybe its TOO big and you need to downsize?
I am sure that more information for the symptoms could get you some outside opinions? You only show 69 posts on here for a post count, so ask guys like zones89rs. That fool is a holley carb guru and a half and he can probably figure out what is going on.
I would say to start with the simple solution first.. To me it is simple cause its what I did. Remove any spacers and plates, and plug off any unnecessary vacuum ports to just run the engine. I see you have a nitrous plate and a carb spacer. Drop the carb to right on the manifold and start from there. Get a baseline and double check for vacuum leaks, leaking gaskets, loose bolts on the intake and carb, ANYTHING at all that could be a source of a vacuum leak. If its not needed to idle the engine and rev the engine up, get it off or unhooked. Also, are you running a MAP sensor? If not, did you zero out the map table in the timing tune-up? Just spit-balling stuff I have run into here...
Start there and see if that makes any difference at all. Something to note, when I removed my intake, the rubber seals for the intake to head were MASSIVELY stretched out. I am talking half an inch longer and wider than what they were supposed to be. I spent the $23 to put new ones on just to be safe. If you are using paper gaskets, replace them anyways. I am not saying go hog wild and rebuild everything, but try the simple stuff first.
You do have a nice car, and just like me, you have way more money in the car than you will get out of it trying to sell it with problems. With the problems, I would say you have somewhere between a $5-7000 car. Get it running right, and that value can jump up quite a bit. At least $2-3000. Like any one with a desire to enter the hobby, your customer will usually want one of two things, either a roller (chassis and body), or a turnkey ready to run. Nobody wants to step into a problem child and try to figure out what is going on and not having been involved from the start.
Just my 2 pennies worth of worthless advice.. I am still a bonafide rookie at all this myself, but as I said, I am just spit balling what I have run into with my project.
When does it do the popping and are you sure that your carb is big enough? Or maybe its TOO big and you need to downsize?
I am sure that more information for the symptoms could get you some outside opinions? You only show 69 posts on here for a post count, so ask guys like zones89rs. That fool is a holley carb guru and a half and he can probably figure out what is going on.
I would say to start with the simple solution first.. To me it is simple cause its what I did. Remove any spacers and plates, and plug off any unnecessary vacuum ports to just run the engine. I see you have a nitrous plate and a carb spacer. Drop the carb to right on the manifold and start from there. Get a baseline and double check for vacuum leaks, leaking gaskets, loose bolts on the intake and carb, ANYTHING at all that could be a source of a vacuum leak. If its not needed to idle the engine and rev the engine up, get it off or unhooked. Also, are you running a MAP sensor? If not, did you zero out the map table in the timing tune-up? Just spit-balling stuff I have run into here...
Start there and see if that makes any difference at all. Something to note, when I removed my intake, the rubber seals for the intake to head were MASSIVELY stretched out. I am talking half an inch longer and wider than what they were supposed to be. I spent the $23 to put new ones on just to be safe. If you are using paper gaskets, replace them anyways. I am not saying go hog wild and rebuild everything, but try the simple stuff first.
You do have a nice car, and just like me, you have way more money in the car than you will get out of it trying to sell it with problems. With the problems, I would say you have somewhere between a $5-7000 car. Get it running right, and that value can jump up quite a bit. At least $2-3000. Like any one with a desire to enter the hobby, your customer will usually want one of two things, either a roller (chassis and body), or a turnkey ready to run. Nobody wants to step into a problem child and try to figure out what is going on and not having been involved from the start.
Just my 2 pennies worth of worthless advice.. I am still a bonafide rookie at all this myself, but as I said, I am just spit balling what I have run into with my project.
Last edited by BigEd_72455; 04-28-2014 at 12:53 PM.
04-28-2014, 01:01 PM
#4
It would be rewarding to keep and fix the issue. Where did the pushrods come from? Who built the engine? Ed is in all the right directions there.
If you were local if put my hands on that thing and even throw my own carb on there just to see if there is a difference to eliminate any carb issues.
Is the carb new? I have seen used units act like garbage from having worn base plates.
As mentioned above, what happens when there is nothing but a sole, single gasket between the carb and intake?
I would love to put my lap top on there and see what I could do to the tune.
If you were local if put my hands on that thing and even throw my own carb on there just to see if there is a difference to eliminate any carb issues.
Is the carb new? I have seen used units act like garbage from having worn base plates.
As mentioned above, what happens when there is nothing but a sole, single gasket between the carb and intake?
I would love to put my lap top on there and see what I could do to the tune.
04-28-2014, 02:35 PM
#5
mine popped insanely when I first got it running. The #2 and #4 coil wiring was meesed up internal to the msd harness. (so basically the firing order was off). I swapped the pins in the connector and the pop was gone. It drove me nuts for 3 or 4 weeks to the point I was ready to sell it also. it would idle ok, then just pop randomly, then pop like crazy under load. The way I found out was checked header tube temp. The frt 2 on passenger side were cool, so as a easy check, I just swapped wires from one coil to next. Fixed.
04-28-2014, 02:42 PM
#6
Something to bear in mind with this guy here, being a moderator of the carb section, he knows his ****. 
Even if you had to make the trip over with the car on the trailer for a get-together and brainstorming session, I guarantee you he has something to help with your setup. I say that cause he told me he usually has at MINIMUM 3 extra carbs... So SOMETHING will get figured out.
Even if you had to make the trip over with the car on the trailer for a get-together and brainstorming session, I guarantee you he has something to help with your setup. I say that cause he told me he usually has at MINIMUM 3 extra carbs... So SOMETHING will get figured out. It would be rewarding to keep and fix the issue. Where did the pushrods come from? Who built the engine? Ed is in all the right directions there.
If you were local if put my hands on that thing and even throw my own carb on there just to see if there is a difference to eliminate any carb issues.
Is the carb new? I have seen used units act like garbage from having worn base plates.
As mentioned above, what happens when there is nothing but a sole, single gasket between the carb and intake?
I would love to put my lap top on there and see what I could do to the tune.
If you were local if put my hands on that thing and even throw my own carb on there just to see if there is a difference to eliminate any carb issues.
Is the carb new? I have seen used units act like garbage from having worn base plates.
As mentioned above, what happens when there is nothing but a sole, single gasket between the carb and intake?
I would love to put my lap top on there and see what I could do to the tune.
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04-28-2014, 04:49 PM
#8
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Alright i appreciate the feedback, heres my answers for the above.
BigEd:
I just rebuilt it this weekend for the third time and made sure the cam was installed dead on.
its popping on the top of every gear no matter what timing is in it or what jets i put in, i have even tried 94 squared just to make sure it wasnt a lean pop but the wide band does show a lean spot 15.9 when its starts popping but hit the next gear and it starts pulling its *** off again then pops some more and the same in third. I did try my dads 750 street hp off his ls nova and it did the same thing even jetted it up cause i figured it might have been trying to go lean but that didnt help either. I have pulled the plate and spacer but will do it again just for kicks.
The MAP sensor is 0'd out but is connected to the plug but no hose. And last but not least it has new intake gaskets also. Moredetail on all the rebuilds: the first build picked something up off the track and crapped the heads, so we bought the 227's and added the bigger cam, the second build was my fault it was low on oil from pulling it thru the rocker arm bolt holes and burning it a lil at a time up until it burnt three qts and i took it around the block and it started knocking but now thats fixed thanks to some permatex ptfe thread sealer, and here we are back to the popping.
Zones
Yes sir it would be very rewarding, the pushrods are Texas Speed and i bought them brand new. I built the engine and i am ASE certified not saying i am special but shoot i have built a few of these and the only one i cant get to run is mine lol. where are you located i might just have to make a trip to your local track and let you beat on it some. and last but not least for you the carb was brand new when i bought it 2-1/2 yrs ago and i have put it back to the factory settings 3 different times because i thought it might have been something i adjusted but wrong there too.
fast89stang
Can you explain how you checked for that in more detail? I am hoping it is something as simple as that. I dohave an edelbrock crap ignition box i could throw back on it.
Thank you to everyone who replied and i am open to trying everything you guys can throw at me to fix this i have done so much research on this and nothing has fixed it that it has me ready to put it in a wall or in someone else's garage.
BigEd:
I just rebuilt it this weekend for the third time and made sure the cam was installed dead on.
its popping on the top of every gear no matter what timing is in it or what jets i put in, i have even tried 94 squared just to make sure it wasnt a lean pop but the wide band does show a lean spot 15.9 when its starts popping but hit the next gear and it starts pulling its *** off again then pops some more and the same in third. I did try my dads 750 street hp off his ls nova and it did the same thing even jetted it up cause i figured it might have been trying to go lean but that didnt help either. I have pulled the plate and spacer but will do it again just for kicks.
The MAP sensor is 0'd out but is connected to the plug but no hose. And last but not least it has new intake gaskets also. Moredetail on all the rebuilds: the first build picked something up off the track and crapped the heads, so we bought the 227's and added the bigger cam, the second build was my fault it was low on oil from pulling it thru the rocker arm bolt holes and burning it a lil at a time up until it burnt three qts and i took it around the block and it started knocking but now thats fixed thanks to some permatex ptfe thread sealer, and here we are back to the popping.
Zones
Yes sir it would be very rewarding, the pushrods are Texas Speed and i bought them brand new. I built the engine and i am ASE certified not saying i am special but shoot i have built a few of these and the only one i cant get to run is mine lol. where are you located i might just have to make a trip to your local track and let you beat on it some. and last but not least for you the carb was brand new when i bought it 2-1/2 yrs ago and i have put it back to the factory settings 3 different times because i thought it might have been something i adjusted but wrong there too.
fast89stang
Can you explain how you checked for that in more detail? I am hoping it is something as simple as that. I dohave an edelbrock crap ignition box i could throw back on it.
Thank you to everyone who replied and i am open to trying everything you guys can throw at me to fix this i have done so much research on this and nothing has fixed it that it has me ready to put it in a wall or in someone else's garage.
04-28-2014, 05:04 PM
#9
Well, lets look at the last statement. No putting it in the wall or in someone else's garage, that will only cost you a fortune... Now, something to check before someone else gets a chance to beat me to it, have you double checked the valve springs? TX Silverado had a bad popping on top end and found a spring had busted into multiple pieces. Fortunately it was a double spring assembly and the secondary, although it was broken also, kept the valve off the piston and did not damage the head.
Your top end lean condition sounds like you are just running out of fuel and might be coming close to emptying the carb. what size are the needle and seats on your carb? They offer a set that is .130 in diameter to fill the bowls faster. I think that size is standard on the dominators, but not sure.
What RPM are you shifting at? Have you thought of simply lowering your redline by 1-200 rpm and seeing if that makes a difference? If its a fuel starvation issue at top end, I would think increasing the carb size would fix it, or maybe the secondary jetting.
What is your fuel pressure set at? might try increasing that also to get fuel in the bowls faster.
As for checking the wiring of each coil, they SHOULD be labeled on the wiring itself. I know mine is. You would just simply follow the labeled wire on the main harness through the plug to the cylinder it is supposed to be going to. If it is in the wrong spot, get it moved to the right one.
Take the map sensor off the connector also. If it is zeroed out, there is no need in possibly complicating anything by having it there.
Your top end lean condition sounds like you are just running out of fuel and might be coming close to emptying the carb. what size are the needle and seats on your carb? They offer a set that is .130 in diameter to fill the bowls faster. I think that size is standard on the dominators, but not sure.
What RPM are you shifting at? Have you thought of simply lowering your redline by 1-200 rpm and seeing if that makes a difference? If its a fuel starvation issue at top end, I would think increasing the carb size would fix it, or maybe the secondary jetting.
What is your fuel pressure set at? might try increasing that also to get fuel in the bowls faster.
As for checking the wiring of each coil, they SHOULD be labeled on the wiring itself. I know mine is. You would just simply follow the labeled wire on the main harness through the plug to the cylinder it is supposed to be going to. If it is in the wrong spot, get it moved to the right one.
Take the map sensor off the connector also. If it is zeroed out, there is no need in possibly complicating anything by having it there.
04-28-2014, 08:53 PM
#12
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I actually have a buddy that has a 6010 harness I will try and I had the same idea about the fuel pressure and bowls so I bumped the psi to 9psi and adjusted the floats accordingly. I haven't checked the springs other than just a quick glance the other night while washing the oil out of the combustion chambers and I couldn't tell you what the needle and seats are except that they are what came in it.
04-28-2014, 08:57 PM
#13
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I have family in Houston so Baytown would be optimal or whatever track you run at lol it's probably about the same elevation and has to be better than our track over here that always has Denver air lol
04-28-2014, 09:02 PM
#14
If you unscrew the needle and seat out, first make sure you have replacement gaskets or get the nylon washers, it will have stamped on the side of the unit what size it is and it will be up top where the nut goes.
If you need some nylon washers let me know, I have enough for 6 carbs right now and can drop a set in the mail to you tomorrow.
If you need some nylon washers let me know, I have enough for 6 carbs right now and can drop a set in the mail to you tomorrow.
04-28-2014, 10:45 PM
#15
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Ok I will do that for sure and I will be sure to pick some nylons up if they are .130's should I find a buddy who's got a dominator I can borrow? And if I do then what's the effects of putting a 4500 flange carb on a 4150 style intake?? Of course that whole thought is a little ahead of my situation right now I was just wondering because the thought has crossed my mind before.
04-28-2014, 10:52 PM
#16
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I did check the wires to the coil packs tonight and they are not labled so I will spend some time ohming them out. The only thing they say is cylinders 1357 and the other side says cylinders 2468 but no specifics labeled on wires.
04-28-2014, 10:54 PM
#17
its simply an adapter that goes from 4500 to 4150, or you can make the investment and go ahead and get a 4500 flanged victor.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2821/10002/-1
here is the adapter search for the dominator to 4150 flange on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...dapter&_sop=15
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2821/10002/-1
here is the adapter search for the dominator to 4150 flange on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...dapter&_sop=15
04-28-2014, 11:09 PM
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There's a roundy rounder shop down the street from my shop so I can just pick them up tomorrow but I really appreciate it man tomorrow and Wednesday are going to be the only days this week I get to work on it but there is a test n tune at our 1/8th mile track this Friday so i may take it out there instead of aggravating the local law enforcement