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T56 hard to get into reverse after clutch swap

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Old 05-05-2016, 10:28 AM
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Default T56 hard to get into reverse after clutch swap

Hey guys, I'm having a little trouble getting my car to go into reverse after doing a clutch swap (McLeod RST) and putting in a tick master cylinder. The clutch has been bled, had good feel, and will go into 1-6 easily, but it takes some muscle to get into reverse. I can get it with 2 hand, and just barely get it in with one. Any ideas on what it could be? Need to adjust master cylinder more? Could it be reverse lockout connection or fuse? Thanks for any help, Logan
Old 05-05-2016, 11:07 AM
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I had the exact same issue when I did the monster and tick upgrade. I bled it and 1-6 would go in although sometimes just a bit notchy and reverse was always a struggle.

What I did was turn the rod to expand clutch further out, one full turn then I tried shifting in reverse until I had it going in smooth like butter. It's time consuming but it's better to safe than overextending it. My clutch pedal is still a bit lower than brake pedal. Hope this helps. Also if it clears the gate just before you go up to reverse then it probably is not the fuse.

Let me ask you, how did you bleed it? 2 person method (press clutch/crack bleeder) or using a brake bleeder tool in the reservoir?

Last edited by BBWS6; 05-05-2016 at 11:20 AM.
Old 05-05-2016, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BBWS6
I had the exact same issue when I did the monster and tick upgrade. I bled it and 1-6 would go in although sometimes just a bit notchy and reverse was always a struggle.

What I did was turn the rod to expand clutch further out, one full turn then I tried shifting in reverse until I had it going in smooth like butter. It's time consuming but it's better to safe than overextending it. My clutch pedal is still a bit lower than brake pedal. Hope this helps. Also if it clears the gate just before you go up to reverse then it probably is not the fuse.

Let me ask you, how did you bleed it? 2 person method (press clutch/crack bleeder) or using a brake bleeder tool in the reservoir?
Thanks for the info, 2 person, I pumped, had another guy bleed it. Hardest part was getting it to go far enough to the right to push it up to reverse.
Old 05-05-2016, 03:46 PM
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Oh that's a bit different than my situation. I could go all the way to the right very easily I just couldn't go up without using force. It's good now though.
Old 05-05-2016, 06:35 PM
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Bleed it some more and see if it helps, adjusting the tick adjustable master cylinder "out" a half turn at a time is also a good idea.

Was the slave cylinder changed when you had the trans out?

Where is the clutch pedal now in relation to the brake pedal?

Is it better or worse after the car is run for a while?
Old 05-05-2016, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by loser98
Bleed it some more and see if it helps, adjusting the tick adjustable master cylinder "out" a half turn at a time is also a good idea.

Was the slave cylinder changed when you had the trans out?

Where is the clutch pedal now in relation to the brake pedal?

Is it better or worse after the car is run for a while?
The slave was not changed, but has been changed before. The clutch is probably 1/2 inch below the brake, and I haven't driven the car after the clutch install, just moved it back and forth in garage
Old 05-07-2016, 05:07 PM
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I had the same kind of problem when I did a McLeod RST in my Terminator. It shifted like crap and I had to put it in reverse with the engine off. Dropped the tranny several time and we couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. Talked to the guys at McLeod and they were awesome and quickly pointed me to the problem. Turned out that the guy that installed it didn't torque the pressure plate down evenly and once it got torqued down correctly the clutch was awesome.

Torqueing the pressure plate down evenly to the given numbers might not be overly critical with a single disk setup as they have plenty of clearance in them but it's tight inside a twin disk setup as you have an extra clutch disk and the friction plate.

Good luck getting it to work right. Once you do you'll love it as it really is a great street clutch. I suggest talking with McLeod as they were extremely helpful for me.

Last edited by JROC; 05-07-2016 at 05:14 PM.
Old 05-15-2016, 08:44 AM
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Potentially buying a RST and searching for all the gotcha's on the install. Did you resolve this issue and if so what was the fix?
Old 05-15-2016, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by SSLogan
Hey guys, I'm having a little trouble getting my car to go into reverse after doing a clutch swap (McLeod RST) and putting in a tick master cylinder. The clutch has been bled, had good feel, and will go into 1-6 easily, but it takes some muscle to get into reverse. I can get it with 2 hand, and just barely get it in with one. Any ideas on what it could be? Need to adjust master cylinder more? Could it be reverse lockout connection or fuse? Thanks for any help, Logan
I have had my skip shift harness adapter come unplugged ( totally my fault ) and my T/A did the exact same thing as your describing . Double check it's plugged in and not damaged is my idea . Good luck
Old 05-15-2016, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
Potentially buying a RST and searching for all the gotcha's on the install. Did you resolve this issue and if so what was the fix?
I bled it some more with a mighty vac through the fluid reservoir, and got it to the point where I could get it to go in, but it's still not perfect. As far as the clutch goes, I love it. Have about 200 miles on it, and plan to go to the track Friday. Pedal feels almost stock, and shifts smooth.
Old 05-15-2016, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by redsscamaroboy
I have had my skip shift harness adapter come unplugged ( totally my fault ) and my T/A did the exact same thing as your describing . Double check it's plugged in and not damaged is my idea . Good luck
Thanks for the reply. I bled it some more and got it better, but it's still not perfect. I'll double check it though



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