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So, I pulled the K member down today (just had it there without motor mounts with a 2 x 4 under the pan as a backup support) and dropped my oil pan for the Improved Racing baffle. Got the pan back on and began the joy of putting this thing on with my now powder coated motor mounts alone on jack stand, what a PITA.
I just had it loose while I got on motor mount bolted on and then needed it tighter to help get the other side. That is when I noticed that there is no alignment pins on this thing. I finished getting the driver side mount on since I was almost done and it can hold the motor for now.
Now looking on line I see it's the BMR that comes with the pins. Knew I seen on with them on there before. So, that leaves the question of how do I align this thing, do I just center it best I can with calipers and let the alignment shop handle it if I can find one good enough?
Also noticed something different between ours. Your mounting bolt goes inside the tube. Mine sits outside of it and uses the oem bolt. You must have the newer version with the built in shims.
I did order 2 or 3 months ago, but yeah pretty new. It has some extra brace plate I see also. Maybe they forgot the pins on mine. I hope they have a way to fix it on the car so I don't have to do this again. I'll call UMI tomorrow. Might have been open today, but I didn't work so I left everyone else alone too.
UMI said the deleted them since many people had to cut them off anyways as they only made it tougher on older tweaked cars. He said that once all the bolts are in it can't move and it's located. I don't 100% believe that, but i don't think it can't move a lot. My guess is I'll have to use an alignment guy to get it in the right spot. Probably gonna be an expensive alignment with all that needs to be set anyways.
This is correct, the k-members no longer come with the pins. We removed them 6+ months ago. The pin holes in the cars were too inconsistent. We were getting complaints on the pins not hitting the holes but dimiensions were correct. Instead of trying to use smaller pins or find some consistency we removed them.
The pins really don't help installing the k-member, I think they were just for assembly purposes on the line. Install all 6 bolts loosely and then tighten them up once all 6 are in place.
I had it on before starting this thread asking how to align it. When I called yesterday the guy told me why they were deleted and that it won't move after all 6 bolts are in. I measured it last night at .140" side to side movement and tried to center it at .070" hoping the rails are straight. I'll rely on the alignment shop to confirm it I guess. I then tried to torque it down and snapped two of the 4 provided bolts torquing just to 100. I checked the directions and they say all six bolts to 110. I looked at the bolts and it shipped with 8.8 grade to replace the 10.9 factory bolts so that is why they broke. Luckily I ordered new bolts to hold the brake brackets on and had to get more than I needed. I grabbed those and some 1/2" grade 8 washers. Member is in place and hopefully for good. I called and talked the same guy today. Told him you should check on the bolts and into updating the directions. Asked him if I need to replace my bolts with flange bolts and he didn't think so. I told him I was glad the broke now rather than later or my attitude would have been very different after my motor fell out on the ground.
Last edited by Crf450r420; 01-04-2017 at 06:45 PM.
8.8 bolts is definitely incorrect, I am sorry about your trouble there. I will see what happened... our bolt company may have mixed an incorrect batch in.
Again on the pins. The pins are only designed to help ease of k-member installation. They guide the k-member into place. They in no way change or work with the vehicle alignment or k-member alignment. You no worries on the pins, only designed to guide the k-member in place.
We do put each k-member through an inspection to verify all locations including the six mounting holes are in tolerance.
So, I'm good with those bolts pictured and just a plain hex head? I don't see a reason I wouldn't be, but it's a rather important part I would like to make sure stays on the car. LOL
So, I'm good with those bolts pictured and just a plain hex head? I don't see a reason I wouldn't be, but it's a rather important part I would like to make sure stays on the car. LOL
Yep! No problem with those bolts. It was just the 8.8 part that wasn't good. You're good to go.
Thanks. I'll move forward on removing the torque arm bracket to cut off the first holes, so I can get it right this time, while I save money for the lower control arms.
While I have your attention. How much caster will I be able to get with camber around 1 to 1.5? I have stock uppers.
Thanks. I'll move forward on removing the torque arm bracket to cut off the first holes, so I can get it right this time, while I save money for the lower control arms.
While I have your attention. How much caster will I be able to get with camber around 1 to 1.5? I have stock uppers.
Your caster won't change much. We have a freak car here that got 6.5 degrees on stock a-arms and k-member. But most are around 4.5-5.
We do have a new upper a-arm we just finished. It has built in caster and shortened to allow camber. It is also adjustable for additional caster and/or camber. So if the stock uppers aren't working out as well these would do it for sure. We haven't listed them yet but they are in stock.
Do they have a bend in them like factory so they don't hit earlier? That is why I'm stock now, so I can make sure there is enough clearance. All the aftermarket ones I've seen are straight and that means the knuckle can't go up as far in the wheel well because the center of the arm will hit first.
Do they have a bend in them like factory so they don't hit earlier? That is why I'm stock now, so I can make sure there is enough clearance. All the aftermarket ones I've seen are straight and that means the knuckle can't go up as far in the wheel well because the center of the arm will hit first.
The new version we adjusted. When at factory length they have equal travel to the stock a-arm. When shortened to increase camber you will loose an 1/8" of travel, very minimal. When shortening the a-arm the design of the a-arm isn't really the issue, its the bolts that hold the ball joint that hit. The a-arm is pretty much at max travel anyone could ever get. It also has more clearance than any competitors design. Regardless of what we do the a-arm is more robust than factory which makes gaining travel tough. We are very happy to get it at equal travel.
01-01-2017, 09:02 PM
UMI Road Race K Member alignment 
