E36 BMW M3 LS1/ M6 has begun
11-13-2008, 02:14 PM
#1
E36 BMW M3 LS1/ M6 has begun Hi everyone!
I am very excited to finally get started on the LS1 M3. I have several motivating factors for this project. First, I was told "it cant be done" by a co-worker... I guess its like telling a little kid no... they do it anyway! Second, I am sick of seeing people shy away from these swap because they think it is entirely too expensive.
So far here is the progress...
Purchased a wrecked 49K '04 GTO for 2700.00
Pulled all usable parts and sold them for 650.00
This leaves the total purchase of complete LS1/ trans/ wiring/ driveline/ etc at 2050.00.
Sold complete M3 engine/ trans/ exhaust/ wiring for 2000.00
Now my LS1 has cost me a whopping 50.00!
EDIT: Sold GTO oil pan setup for 250.00... Now I'm money ahead....
Purchased motor & trans mounts from Mike Collins (Nash E36 BMW swap kits) and highly recommend them!
Purchased a set of CTS-V manifolds on ebay, camaro oil pan, and other misc parts. On that note... GTO oil pan and pickup are for sale.
Test fit engine. CTS-V manifolds are close... but no dice. Going to go with block huggers from hooker. I am not going to spend 3K on headers. I dont care about the difference in power. CTS-V manifolds are also for sale.
Nash engine/ trans mounts are PERFECT! The valve cover clears stock brake booster! Engine drops right into place. Thanks again Mike!
EDIT: Decided to go with Hydro-boost from a 4.6L mustang, clearance was too tight between the stock booster and valve cover.
ABS needs to be relocated to make room... I want to be able to work on this car when I'm done.
I will be fabricating my own steering shaft and mating the BMW harness to the LS1 harness. The ecm will be sent out to disable VATS, rear O2's, FTP, change tach signal to 6cyl, etc.
Updates to come!
I am very excited to finally get started on the LS1 M3. I have several motivating factors for this project. First, I was told "it cant be done" by a co-worker... I guess its like telling a little kid no... they do it anyway! Second, I am sick of seeing people shy away from these swap because they think it is entirely too expensive.
So far here is the progress...
Purchased a wrecked 49K '04 GTO for 2700.00
Pulled all usable parts and sold them for 650.00
This leaves the total purchase of complete LS1/ trans/ wiring/ driveline/ etc at 2050.00.
Sold complete M3 engine/ trans/ exhaust/ wiring for 2000.00
Now my LS1 has cost me a whopping 50.00!
EDIT: Sold GTO oil pan setup for 250.00... Now I'm money ahead....
Purchased motor & trans mounts from Mike Collins (Nash E36 BMW swap kits) and highly recommend them!
Purchased a set of CTS-V manifolds on ebay, camaro oil pan, and other misc parts. On that note... GTO oil pan and pickup are for sale.
Test fit engine. CTS-V manifolds are close... but no dice. Going to go with block huggers from hooker. I am not going to spend 3K on headers. I dont care about the difference in power. CTS-V manifolds are also for sale.
Nash engine/ trans mounts are PERFECT! The valve cover clears stock brake booster! Engine drops right into place. Thanks again Mike!
EDIT: Decided to go with Hydro-boost from a 4.6L mustang, clearance was too tight between the stock booster and valve cover.
ABS needs to be relocated to make room... I want to be able to work on this car when I'm done.
I will be fabricating my own steering shaft and mating the BMW harness to the LS1 harness. The ecm will be sent out to disable VATS, rear O2's, FTP, change tach signal to 6cyl, etc.
Updates to come!
Last edited by unnatrl; 11-27-2008 at 10:26 PM.
11-13-2008, 02:22 PM
#2
Using the GTO Harness.... Please use this for reference only, it is your responsibility to verify this is the same for your vehicle.
Wiring it all up
Connector C1 (blue) BMW 20 pin Fuse
Pin / Color Function
#1 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#24 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#27 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#40 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#64 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#67 Blk/ Red Ground Ground
#20 Orange Batty 12v- constant To Batty block 10A
#57 Orange Batty 12v- constant To Batty block 10A
#19 Orange Ign 12V- switched #21 15A
#58 Yellow OBDII port Inside car to DLC #58 Yellow
Connector C2 (green)
Pin / Color Function
#1 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#40 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#10 Brwn Tach signal to Tach #20
#33 Blu/Wht Cooling fan relay (terminal 86) Custom
#46 Brwn/Wht SES (ground side of circuit) #12
#9 Grn/Wht Fuel pump relay trigger (terminal 85) #13
Custom- Gauges, A/C, etc
Coolant temp on LS1 #12
Oil pressure on LS1 #23
Starter (+12 when cranking) #18
A/C compressor control #4
Other
Lt grn wire to injectors- 12v+ switched/ 15A fuse 15A
Red wire to injectors- 12v+ switched/ 15A fuse 15A
Note: Ground wires are tied together inside the harness. There may be 1or 2 loose
wires to hook up for the ground.
Note: Batty 12V constant wires are tied together in the harness, only 1 wire will actually
be attached at the batty block.
The attached PDF has more detail for those that are interested.
Wiring it all up
Connector C1 (blue) BMW 20 pin Fuse
Pin / Color Function
#1 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#24 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#27 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#40 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#64 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#67 Blk/ Red Ground Ground
#20 Orange Batty 12v- constant To Batty block 10A
#57 Orange Batty 12v- constant To Batty block 10A
#19 Orange Ign 12V- switched #21 15A
#58 Yellow OBDII port Inside car to DLC #58 Yellow
Connector C2 (green)
Pin / Color Function
#1 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#40 Blk/Red Ground Ground
#10 Brwn Tach signal to Tach #20
#33 Blu/Wht Cooling fan relay (terminal 86) Custom
#46 Brwn/Wht SES (ground side of circuit) #12
#9 Grn/Wht Fuel pump relay trigger (terminal 85) #13
Custom- Gauges, A/C, etc
Coolant temp on LS1 #12
Oil pressure on LS1 #23
Starter (+12 when cranking) #18
A/C compressor control #4
Other
Lt grn wire to injectors- 12v+ switched/ 15A fuse 15A
Red wire to injectors- 12v+ switched/ 15A fuse 15A
Note: Ground wires are tied together inside the harness. There may be 1or 2 loose
wires to hook up for the ground.
Note: Batty 12V constant wires are tied together in the harness, only 1 wire will actually
be attached at the batty block.
The attached PDF has more detail for those that are interested.
Last edited by unnatrl; 11-13-2008 at 02:30 PM.
11-13-2008, 02:25 PM
#4
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Excellent....
Keep us posted on how the block huggers work (or don't as the case may be) and what other modifications were needed to make the headers work (if any).
Curious, what did the motor mounts and trans mounts cost?
I'm interested in this swap, but the 3k for the headers is a deal buster for me.
I had a line on a high mile (252k) but otherwise pristine '96 318 convertible that slipped through my fingers. Guy wanted $1k for it, and it was still running great. Talk about an excellent conversion candidate. I'm still a little bummed.
'JustDreamin'
Keep us posted on how the block huggers work (or don't as the case may be) and what other modifications were needed to make the headers work (if any).
Curious, what did the motor mounts and trans mounts cost?
I'm interested in this swap, but the 3k for the headers is a deal buster for me.
I had a line on a high mile (252k) but otherwise pristine '96 318 convertible that slipped through my fingers. Guy wanted $1k for it, and it was still running great. Talk about an excellent conversion candidate. I'm still a little bummed.
'JustDreamin'
11-13-2008, 03:43 PM
#7
RE: Steering shaft I am well aware of the fun the steering shaft poses. This is the reason I'm going to build my own. It will have an extra joint & a support bearing that will allow the extra bit of clearance. I know it will work, as I have pictures of a car that it worked out on. I know it isnt the "preferable way", but 3K for headers is not an option.
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11-13-2008, 06:29 PM
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I am well aware of the fun the steering shaft poses. This is the reason I'm going to build my own. It will have an extra joint & a support bearing that will allow the extra bit of clearance. I know it will work, as I have pictures of a car that it worked out on. I know it isnt the "preferable way", but 3K for headers is not an option.
11-13-2008, 08:49 PM
#14
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that pic is a bit misleading due to the angle...but that support bearing is sitting in a threaded bracket and adjustable. it has since been moved about an inch closer to the framerail. even in that position it never touched the header, runs and drives as if it came like that from the factory. there is a bit more involved than what you see there...the steering column was also moved back an inch to get a little bit better angle on the joints. its either that or send the shaft thru the header, which is also a close fit. solid mounts are key...you dont want any shake in such a tight fit. at the end of the day if you lose a mount and the motor moves, I feel more comfortable with my steering shaft sitting on the side of it than in between the header.
11-14-2008, 11:01 AM
#15
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Hey guys...
I like that pic. Certainly re-routing the steering shaft makes a "normal" set of headers a viable option.
I've got some questions:
1.) What (and whose) parts were used in relocating the steering column?
2.) Is there still a provision for the steering column to collapse in a collision? (Although with an extra joint I'm not sure it's necessary).
3.) How much did you spend on the steering column stuff (not counting the fab'd stuff).
4.) Whose block-huggers are those and what size tubes?
5.) I assume that the car in the pic is an E36 chassis, is that correct (I hate making assumptions).
This is still a very cool swap that I'd like to pursue soon. GM doesn't have anything rear drive and reasonably light that I'd like to put a V8 in. Heck, v8 4th gen f-body's weigh significantly more than most of the converted BMW's do. And adding "light" is better than adding power (saves on gas too). Making it do-able without $3k headers and $700 engine mounts would be nice (engine mounts shouldn't cost $700).
'JustDreamin'
I like that pic. Certainly re-routing the steering shaft makes a "normal" set of headers a viable option.
I've got some questions:
1.) What (and whose) parts were used in relocating the steering column?
2.) Is there still a provision for the steering column to collapse in a collision? (Although with an extra joint I'm not sure it's necessary).
3.) How much did you spend on the steering column stuff (not counting the fab'd stuff).
4.) Whose block-huggers are those and what size tubes?
5.) I assume that the car in the pic is an E36 chassis, is that correct (I hate making assumptions).
This is still a very cool swap that I'd like to pursue soon. GM doesn't have anything rear drive and reasonably light that I'd like to put a V8 in. Heck, v8 4th gen f-body's weigh significantly more than most of the converted BMW's do. And adding "light" is better than adding power (saves on gas too). Making it do-able without $3k headers and $700 engine mounts would be nice (engine mounts shouldn't cost $700).
'JustDreamin'
11-14-2008, 11:42 AM
#16
Hey guys...
I like that pic. Certainly re-routing the steering shaft makes a "normal" set of headers a viable option.
I've got some questions:
1.) What (and whose) parts were used in relocating the steering column?
2.) Is there still a provision for the steering column to collapse in a collision? (Although with an extra joint I'm not sure it's necessary).
3.) How much did you spend on the steering column stuff (not counting the fab'd stuff).
4.) Whose block-huggers are those and what size tubes?
5.) I assume that the car in the pic is an E36 chassis, is that correct (I hate making assumptions).
This is still a very cool swap that I'd like to pursue soon. GM doesn't have anything rear drive and reasonably light that I'd like to put a V8 in. Heck, v8 4th gen f-body's weigh significantly more than most of the converted BMW's do. And adding "light" is better than adding power (saves on gas too). Making it do-able without $3k headers and $700 engine mounts would be nice (engine mounts shouldn't cost $700).
'JustDreamin'
I like that pic. Certainly re-routing the steering shaft makes a "normal" set of headers a viable option.
I've got some questions:
1.) What (and whose) parts were used in relocating the steering column?
2.) Is there still a provision for the steering column to collapse in a collision? (Although with an extra joint I'm not sure it's necessary).
3.) How much did you spend on the steering column stuff (not counting the fab'd stuff).
4.) Whose block-huggers are those and what size tubes?
5.) I assume that the car in the pic is an E36 chassis, is that correct (I hate making assumptions).
This is still a very cool swap that I'd like to pursue soon. GM doesn't have anything rear drive and reasonably light that I'd like to put a V8 in. Heck, v8 4th gen f-body's weigh significantly more than most of the converted BMW's do. And adding "light" is better than adding power (saves on gas too). Making it do-able without $3k headers and $700 engine mounts would be nice (engine mounts shouldn't cost $700).
'JustDreamin'
(210.00) 1 5/8 primary tubes, steering shaft parts (300.00) & my labor. I bought the engine mounts from Mike @ Nash, but he gave me such a good deal I couldnt say no. I originally planned on making my own mounts. My project is still in the beginning stages, so no for sure answer on relocating the column yet. I am not worried about the steering shaft collapsing in an accident... partially due to the multiple joints, and partially due to the idea if I wreck this car that bad I'm hoping I dont know it....
And yes, this is an E36 chassis. My car specifically is a 95 M3.
11-14-2008, 01:19 PM
#20
The M3 radiator should work fine. In my research I have found that most people use the stock radiator because it has slightly better cooling characteristics than a stock F-body radiator. I'm going to use my stock radiator and a Lincoln MK VIII fan. The two fit like they were made for each other.