Monza355

iTrader: (3)

I want to swap a 200-4R onto an LS2 that has the electronic throttle body. Is this possible?

Thanks,

Bill

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Highly unlikely. The 200R4 needs a throttle valve cable to set the pump pressure to match the throttle opening (load). W/O the TV cable, you'll burn the frictions to a crisp. UNLESS - you find a full manual valve body that doesn't use a cable, but that's a whole different scenario...

Russ

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Yep its possible. I have heard that there is a full manual valvebody available for the 200r4, but I am not sure who makes it. Alternately you can connect the TV cable directly to the gas pedal. Theres no kit available to do it, and it needs to be done carefully with respect to the cable pull distance, and correct geometry, but it is possible.

Monza355

iTrader: (3)

I need to keep it automatic for the wife and I thought about attaching it to the pedal. That seems to be the only way. Any more ideas?

Thanks,

Bill

SPDMETL

Is there some way to extend the throttle shaft on the throttle body, say to the other side, and add a bracket ?

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

Any body figure out the correct pull length/geometry? I figured the pull length at 1.75 inches recalling my weak memories of high school geometry.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

It's no where near that much! Stock is about 1.125". My Lokar/Holley setup is 0.875", but that still gives me the proper pressures measured with a gauge (which is the ONLY way to be sure you're not gonna burn it up).

Russ

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-bracket.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_07.html

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

You are absolutely right Russ. It is not what I first posted. It is unfortunate the pull distance is not described in inches. Using pressures (and knowing what they should be) is always the best way. The diagram in Chevy Hi Performance works out to about 1.4 inches (that diagram is from the TCI web site btw). I guess I am really confused now.

Monza355

iTrader: (3)

Those pics show a cable TB. I want to keep the electronic TB. I'm thinking the TV cable to the pedal is the easiest swap.

Bill

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

I am going that route too, Bill. I have a lokar pedal that the arm is slotted on. My plan is to get the throttle cable all done and adjusted properly, then connect the TV cable to the slot in the gas pedal using a carb stud. I will be able to adjust it by moving it up and down in the slot to change the distance that the pedal pulls the TV cable. When I originally put my car together (455 with a turbo 350) that is how I controlled the kick down cable on the 350. I don't know what pull distance I will start with. I thought I had it all figured out. Go to the TCI website and look around there. There is some interesting along with the diagram previously posted from Chevy HiPerformance. I hope this helps you.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

When the TV cable is hooked to the throttle body arm or a carb, it doesn't pull equally all the way through throttle movement. It pulls farther for the first half of throttle movement than it does for the last half. Hooking the cable to the throttle pedal will never have the correct geometry. It might work as long as the car is NEVER driven hard, but sooner or later it will give problems that will probably be mis-diagnosed. If you're determined to use the 200-4R, then swap to a manual valve body or cable driven throttle body. If you use a cable throttle body, I'll send you the bracket and connection point you saw in the pictures. If you want to stay DBW, then my best advise is to get a 4L60E for the car.

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

LS1MCSS is absolutely right about the way in which the cable is pulled in a correct setup. It is pulled more in the first part of the travel. If you're going to try it, ( and I think it could be done ) you need to make a pivoting bracket similar to the ones used on a carb setup or like the one *LS1MCSS * uses on his throttle body and then pull it with a separate cable off the foot pedal and then use the normal TV cable to the trans.
I also disagree with * S10xGN * on the pull distance. My Bowtie Overdrive 2004R is setup according to their specs which include pulling the pan and actually verifying the start and the actual pushing in of the TV valve to its full distance, and while I can't give you the exact distance, I can say it is closer to 1.75 " at the carb.
Not trying to hype Bowtie Overdrive, but they do have some good information about the TV cable relationship on their website.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

The TV cable is extremely important on a 200R4! As you can see circumstances differ on each build, and stated spec's are for factory pieces or specifically designed systems... When you're on your own, you'll have to take it all into account and check your pressures when done.


This is all "re-engineered" stuff here, Holley throttle arm extension bracket and Lokar cable & mounting bracket. I'm sure their engineering department(s) have worked up a satisfactory redesign. Anyways, in my situation the cable pull is exactly correct and gives the correct operating pressures for idle and WOT. I did note that once the cable is at it's WOT position I can pull it out another 3/8" or so before it stops, yet the pressures do not change. Therefore, (again) in my situation that is unnecessary movement and would likely not count in your measurement.

Russ

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

I am going to use a cable driven throttle body for sure. I could use what ever you have to control the 2004r properly. I did not realize that the pull was not linear. Can't afford to burn my trans up. I probably should have used a 4l60E to start with.

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

* S10xGN *, you are absolutely correct that the TV cable is extremely important on the 200-4R. I was also trying to make the point, as you were, that each installation should be checked for correct pressures, and etc. and not just assume that hooking the cable up to the carb will get it done.
*LS1MCSS * has the neatest setup I've seen for a TV cable to a TB. Also, while it is true that a 4L60E is easier, I personally think a 200-4R has some advantages. These include a better gear ratio spread, so you can run a steeper rear gear ratio without having to contend with that 3.04 low gear in the 4L60. The 200-4R also has a higher O/D ratio, which also allows you to run a deeper rear gear and still have acceptable highway RPM's. Just my .02 cents worth. Ron