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Old 08-29-2009, 07:10 PM   #1
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Default MSD 6010 box users step inside

Got the box hooked up and running on the CETA but haven't started on the timing side of it yet. Currently have one of the pills in it to drive around on.

My favor from you: Who wants to send me some files so I can get the timing around where it needs to be? I've got the new Pro Data software from MSD ( v. 3.19).

Here is a little run down on the setup

Stock cubic inch LS1 with forged rods and pistons(-2cc reliefs)
PRC Stage 2.5 5.3 heads
Magic Stick 3
Pacesetter long tubes
Victor Jr with a 750 AED carb( jets are 88s all the way around)
Holley Black race pump
Edelbrock Performer RPM kit that will be jetted for a 150 shot(won't be sprayed until all the bugs are worked out)
Built TH350 with a PTC 3300 nitrous converter
Stock 10 bolt with 4.11 gears




Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:12 PM   #2
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I'm still "playing" with my setup, running 12° @ 0 RPM, 28° @ 1000 RPM, 34° from 2400 to 5800, and back down to 28° from 7000+. I have a MAP and that's setup as well. I can't believe you're running 88 jets around! I'm fouling plugs with a Holley HP750 with 70's in the front. I had to run a stock heat plug and larger gap than what the "racers" here recommended just to keep it running. With a TSP Torquer V.2, it pulls 9" vacuum @ 950 RPM's...
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:56 PM   #3
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I was running a 6.0 LQ4 with l92 heads , Vic. jr. with a 870 cfm Pro-system carb. 76's in the front and 86's in the rear. I started mine off at 18* @ 0 RPM and 36* from 1500 RPM on. Keep in mind I was only at about 9.8 comp.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:58 PM   #4
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BTW , Nice Maverick !
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:45 PM   #5
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thanks for the replies guys. i'm running TR6s in it gapped at about .038 and they look great. I've also got the MAP hooked up on it.

I've heard that the carb LS motors like timing around or below 30*. I'll be turning it to 7K on the shifts
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:31 AM   #6
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I have mine at 28 degrees max, and drop 8 degrees when the nitrous is activated.
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Old 08-30-2009, 01:22 PM   #7
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For some reason people always say "no more than 28* because blah blah blah fuel injected blah blah" 32*-35* seems to be the sweet spot from about 3.5k on up. 0 rpm 17* 1k 23*. Ant thats with 11.1:1
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Old 08-30-2009, 03:15 PM   #8
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youll find that a squared jet setup is going to be RICH on the street and youll never get it lean enough for cruising.
drop the front jet and toss a powervalve in it.

i have NEVER been able to run a tr6 plug with a carb and an ls motor. either on the edelbrock or an msd box.
terrible cold drivability, and pops and bangs once warmed up.
if you run into similar issues, check out an autolight 605(5 heat range) or a 103(6)
i currently run a br7ef in my 408. they seem to be the best lasting plug as far as fouling.
they seem to take more timing than other plugs as well.
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Old 08-30-2009, 04:50 PM   #9
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Keep it coming guys. I know that it will be a trial and error before I find the right tune but this is giving me a starting point.

I would rather have the carb a little rich than lean out on nitrous and the AED I have doesn't have the powervalve in it.
I have been running TR6s in it since I did the conversion and haven't had an issue as of yet.
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2000 LPM Z28 M6 -- Stock with a lid, Daily Driver, Bluecat Tuned

2002 CETA A3--#2074 of 2390-- Carb'd, TH350, 12 bolt, some extras, still a little 346, BUILT NOT BOUGHT
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topher455 View Post
For some reason people always say "no more than 28* because blah blah blah fuel injected blah blah" 32*-35* seems to be the sweet spot from about 3.5k on up. 0 rpm 17* 1k 23*. Ant thats with 11.1:1
My reason for not going over 28, is I have a lot more than 11.1:1 compression. Mine is 12.7:1.
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Old 08-30-2009, 06:30 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002 View Post
I would rather have the carb a little rich than lean out on nitrous and the AED I have doesn't have the powervalve in it.
I have been running TR6s in it since I did the conversion and haven't had an issue as of yet.
im talking about cruising down the street.
it will be hard to get a lean cruise out of it and it will more than likely kill plugs without notice.
my AED ran in the 9's a/f without a powervalve.
i sent it in for them to modify it for a power valve channel, then had nothing but problems out of it. even then it was so rich you had to change the plugs everytime you cranked the car.
trying to work the bugs out but it pops and bangs on the street. sent it back to AED and they are telling me the power valve channel is too large and its costing me 180 bucks out of my pocket to fix their mistake they said they didnt do. "someone modified your carb." no chit??
i will avoid AED. their customer service and support is horrible.
the attitudes of them on the phone is borderline.
im glad i didnt have to deal with them face to face....
hope your results are better than mine.
ive got an 1100 dollar paper weight im going to have to sell for around 500 bucks.
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:00 PM   #12
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tj just go out and buy a quickfuel main body for a 4150 carb and then put in the proper sized passages if needed.
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Old 08-30-2009, 10:11 PM   #13
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tj just go out and buy a quickfuel main body for a 4150 carb and then put in the proper sized passages if needed.
its a 3 circuit carb. no can do.
its comming back to me and getting sold.
i have been informed by aed the carb is made to idle and run wide open, and will never run on the street without killing plugs. so its getting advertised as a drag race piece.
ive since bought a braswell and the car totes the tires 12-18" now.
1.36 short time, all motor.
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Old 08-31-2009, 11:10 AM   #14
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ick well they really screwed you on that piece then.
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:40 PM   #15
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6010 user as well

my combo- 2002 LS1- Trex cam- Edel victor- 650DP holley

I'm new to tuning with this software as I just got this car running, but I think I'm getting closer. I've got 12* at 0 rpm, 22*@ 1000, and all in at 3000 rpm at 28*, but the MAP is adding 3* under WOT. It seems much happier with the 650 on it than the 750- just a little crisper under light loads I'm sure due to signal and velocity. I've got 70s and 76s in it now with a 6.5 power valve. I had a 4.5 in it and it seemed better around town. It pulls right at 9-10 inches at 1000 rpm on a vac gauge. I put the 6.5 to try it and some new TR5s and now it pops and bangs under light loads. It's pretty angry at WOT so I know I'm close. The wideband will be here in a couple weeks, but I want to get a decent baseline for now. Looked at the plugs last night after just one day of light cruising and they are sooty with a tan powder on the strap. Looks to me like it's fat. What do you guys think?
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:56 PM   #16
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Its either fat or you've got the wrong gap, one of the two. LS motors seem to be pretty sensitive to the proper heat range...

What are you guys running as far as the brand plugs and gap?
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Old 08-31-2009, 01:14 PM   #17
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these are NGK-R TR5s gapped at .032. I'm gonna stick the 4.5 back in it tonight and some 67s up front and see what happens.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramdaspadhye View Post
Its either fat or you've got the wrong gap, one of the two. LS motors seem to be pretty sensitive to the proper heat range...

What are you guys running as far as the brand plugs and gap?
The (racer) recommendation on here was TR-6's @ 0.030". I tried that and fouled every plug so bad it wouldn't crank. I'm now using stock heat-range Autolite AP5245's gapped @ 0.045" and it's much happier. Still pig-rich at idle, even with a 4.5" PV and #70 mains...
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S10xGN View Post
The (racer) recommendation on here was TR-6's @ 0.030". I tried that and fouled every plug so bad it wouldn't crank. I'm now using stock heat-range Autolite AP5245's gapped @ 0.045" and it's much happier. Still pig-rich at idle, even with a 4.5" PV and #70 mains...
does the main body have removable idle bleeds?
if not, you can drill them, but i dont like doing that unless they are removeable.
that will help cure some issues.
also, if you butterflys dont have holes in them, you can drill .090 (or 3/32 bit, easier to find)
helps lean it out some too.
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05 2500hd. 6.0L
88 iroc-z 6.0L
one hauls, one hauls a$$.
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:54 PM   #20
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ick well they really screwed you on that piece then.
OH YES.
got it back today. looks like its been sitting 40 years in a bucket of acid.
i didnt want to spend 200 bucks to have it recoated, so i guess they stripped it to further prove a point.
ill have to send you pics of when it was on the car and what it looks like after i got it back from them.
my god.....
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88 iroc-z 6.0L
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:54 PM
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