DIY Gas Tank Sump Material and Shape
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DIY Gas Tank Sump Material and Shape
my plan is to mount a walbro in-tank pump in the stock nova gas tank with an added sump. this was my insperation http://adobe.kodakgallery.com/Slides...e&conn_speed=1
In postes, he claims it works perfectly on his TPI engine.
the question is:
what gauge of steel should I use? what gauge are the aftermarket add on sumps made from (comp engineering or moroso)?
I like the way the guy in the link did it but he used a pump kit that has a plastic case thing like a stock pump that I believe acts like a baffle, my walbro has no such thing. does anyone have any sugestions as to ways to make a sump out of bent sheet metal such that the pump stays submerged at all times (Asssume I can place the pump anywhere in the tank). I was thinking of copying the guys idea but adding some interior baffling around the pump, but I dont know the best way of doing this. I could also make the sump triangular with the pump in a corner oriented to the rear of the car. I will be using the stock pick up and sender with the pump attached to the end of it and placed in the sump.
Please: I know about the other options: conventional sump + external pump, aftermarket tank for injection, swerel pot, ect. this is the way i am going.
Thanks
In postes, he claims it works perfectly on his TPI engine.
the question is:
what gauge of steel should I use? what gauge are the aftermarket add on sumps made from (comp engineering or moroso)?
I like the way the guy in the link did it but he used a pump kit that has a plastic case thing like a stock pump that I believe acts like a baffle, my walbro has no such thing. does anyone have any sugestions as to ways to make a sump out of bent sheet metal such that the pump stays submerged at all times (Asssume I can place the pump anywhere in the tank). I was thinking of copying the guys idea but adding some interior baffling around the pump, but I dont know the best way of doing this. I could also make the sump triangular with the pump in a corner oriented to the rear of the car. I will be using the stock pick up and sender with the pump attached to the end of it and placed in the sump.
Please: I know about the other options: conventional sump + external pump, aftermarket tank for injection, swerel pot, ect. this is the way i am going.
Thanks
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I've seen that build up before, on SNS right? Definitely a big sump and not very attractive, but I'm sure it works great and eliminates a lot of the problems - which is the most important part.
#5
yump!!!!!!!!!
#6
The easiest sump idea I have seen was just a 4" square box maybe a inch deep welded to the bottom of the tank. The trick to making it effective is to only drill 3 half inch holes feeding it. Gas goes in it but sure as hell doesn't slosh back out. Just feed the inlet line from your in tank pump into that.
That sump is more like a tank within a tank. It might be big enough that fuel will still slosh around in hard cornering.
I think the idea you are looking for is to make the sump just large enough to fit the pump, then don't make too many or too large of holes to feed fuel into it. It looks like he got the feed holes right, but in my opinion made the sump part larger than it needs to be.
I would think 20 guage mild steel should be sufficient.
That sump is more like a tank within a tank. It might be big enough that fuel will still slosh around in hard cornering.
I think the idea you are looking for is to make the sump just large enough to fit the pump, then don't make too many or too large of holes to feed fuel into it. It looks like he got the feed holes right, but in my opinion made the sump part larger than it needs to be.
I would think 20 guage mild steel should be sufficient.
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16a would be well enough. Just using a gauge tool to tell the thickness of the gas tank would give you an adequate answer. The problem with only doing the three holes - like what is told to do when you buy fuel sumps from companies like comp engineering is effectively getting the fuel pump to the bottom of the sump.
You would need a wide enough sump to house an independent hole for the fuel pump, as well as the three or so holes for fuel inlet. Not super difficult, but a bit more tedious.
I'm just going to use the $60 fuel sump from Comp Engineering until I feel the need/save the cash up to have a nice tank from someone like TanksInc.
You would need a wide enough sump to house an independent hole for the fuel pump, as well as the three or so holes for fuel inlet. Not super difficult, but a bit more tedious.
I'm just going to use the $60 fuel sump from Comp Engineering until I feel the need/save the cash up to have a nice tank from someone like TanksInc.
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Hmmm, I don't know I would be concerned about that sump hanging from the bottom of my gas tank and snagging it on something. I don't think it is a very good design at all.......
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I already have a brand new tank to work with. if my car was lowered i would be worried about the sump hanging low but its defiantly not low, especially in the back.
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Hey, I came accross this by fluke and it has been bugging me for awhile. I was going to use the tanks inc set up but after a member replaced his due to cavitation upon acceleration hard turns I was bummed out.
After some searching I found that the BWM's 3 serries cars have a simalar set up as tanks inc and have the same problem when cornering. To fix this the M3 has a baffle box fed by the return so it can't escape the fuel tray.
If you search ggl for diy bwm baffle part # Fuel Baffle Fixture 16 11 2 229 656you'll see what I mean. This is what I will do in hopes to fix my fears.
After some searching I found that the BWM's 3 serries cars have a simalar set up as tanks inc and have the same problem when cornering. To fix this the M3 has a baffle box fed by the return so it can't escape the fuel tray.
If you search ggl for diy bwm baffle part # Fuel Baffle Fixture 16 11 2 229 656you'll see what I mean. This is what I will do in hopes to fix my fears.