Some AJE Fox K-Member Info
#1
Some AJE Fox K-Member Info
I emailed AJE to express my concern about the suitability of using their K-member on the street. Some of what I've read implies that the AJE unit is designed for straight line drag applications and would not hold up to the cornering forces experienced while driving on the street.
I received a reply that AJE has a "RR" version that is well suited for street applications. The following photo was labeled "old version mu3020rr," so I've emailed back to see what the differences are between the "old version" and the "new version."
Has anyone here used the "RR" version?
Tipsy
I received a reply that AJE has a "RR" version that is well suited for street applications. The following photo was labeled "old version mu3020rr," so I've emailed back to see what the differences are between the "old version" and the "new version."
Has anyone here used the "RR" version?
Tipsy
#5
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If thats the case From what i see there is a difference of where the arms get bolted on. Mine, the bolt goes into a tube connecting the two arms. Where the new ones bave tabs on the inside of the arms. Other than that the only difference I seen was the barrel length where the mount bolt ons.
#7
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Ok.
There have been some design changes. June 07 fine thread bolt and old stock style motor mount to course thread bolt and new motor mount.
Mid 08 tube for control arm replaced with a box. Outboard and bottom removed with tube braces supporting it just like previous designs. No tabs like other manufactures. It is a tab with support on two sides I guess.
The changes were made for a savings in cost and manufacture time.
I talked with aje in july this year at that time there were no changes.
I have put a bunch of miles on mine with no issues. Stood the car up at the track a few times. Normal street driving will not be a problem. Pot holes in all. If you are out cutting corners with it need to looking one built for road racing.
Tim
There have been some design changes. June 07 fine thread bolt and old stock style motor mount to course thread bolt and new motor mount.
Mid 08 tube for control arm replaced with a box. Outboard and bottom removed with tube braces supporting it just like previous designs. No tabs like other manufactures. It is a tab with support on two sides I guess.
The changes were made for a savings in cost and manufacture time.
I talked with aje in july this year at that time there were no changes.
I have put a bunch of miles on mine with no issues. Stood the car up at the track a few times. Normal street driving will not be a problem. Pot holes in all. If you are out cutting corners with it need to looking one built for road racing.
Tim
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#8
Insofar as the picture being labeled "old version," I took that to mean that both the RR and non-RR model have been updated...probably what Gray86hatch describes above.
When I asked AJE what the differences are between the "old" and "new" version, they replied "The new version has the updates and advantages on our website. thats the difference."
Tipsy
#9
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The one pictured above is a pre July 07 been used for years never seen issues with them.
This is a post july 07 with the new style motor mounts and course thread bolt. I have a few hard landings on this one.
This a Mid 08 early 09 revision.
Looking at both I can see no issues with either set ups. Remember the load is not concertrated in 1 location. I have see k members bent from the rack hitting the pavment in a wheelstand but not the control arm mounts.
Tim
This is a post july 07 with the new style motor mounts and course thread bolt. I have a few hard landings on this one.
This a Mid 08 early 09 revision.
Looking at both I can see no issues with either set ups. Remember the load is not concertrated in 1 location. I have see k members bent from the rack hitting the pavment in a wheelstand but not the control arm mounts.
Tim
#10
I've never seen any of these in person (old version, new version, RR, non-RR) so I have no idea how the RR is structurally different than the non-RR version.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 02-05-2010 at 01:49 PM.
#12
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The RR version has the diag tube from the cross tube to the control arm center. I just noticed it. The non RR versions don't have this. None of mine have had this and really dont feel it is needed unless autocrossing.
Once it is bolted in the car it becomes one structure.
Tim
Once it is bolted in the car it becomes one structure.
Tim
#13
And they don't even mention the "RR" K-member on their site or indicate how if differs from the non-RR version.
Tipsy
#14
The RR version has the diag tube from the cross tube to the control arm center. I just noticed it. The non RR versions don't have this. None of mine have had this and really dont feel it is needed unless autocrossing.
Once it is bolted in the car it becomes one structure.
Tim
Once it is bolted in the car it becomes one structure.
Tim
To be honest, for the extra $50ish...I'll take the extra bracing and peace of mind.
Thanks very much for your input, Tim.
Tipsy
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I think either will be fine for a normal street car. Just take a look at it real close everytime you change the oil for cracks and damage. I wouldn't put one on a car with any kind of decent front brake/tire though and expect it to live.....
#16
Are you implying that a wide front tire with a lot of grip (resistance) and strong brakes develops more stress than a tubular K-member can handle?
If that's what you're saying, your contention is why I emailed AJE in the first place. They replied explaining that their "RR" K-member was designed with this in mind.
Tipsy
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Yeah if you were to put a decent tire and a set of brakes that work good on the front end who knows what it would do. A lot of guys run down the road with skinny tires and you aren't going to get enough grip to stress out anything that way so I wouldn't worry too much.
#18
Probably do a straight-up SN95 five lug/disc conversion or possibly Cobra brakes.
Like I said, for peace-of-mind, I'll likely go with the "RR" version.
Tipsy