Another Mustang gets a Heartbeat
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Celina, Texas
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another Mustang gets a Heartbeat
Specs on the car....
1993 Mustang coupe, royal blue, black interior, 95 Mustang GT booster and master cylinder, 2003 front brakes, spindles, rotors, stock 95 rear stuff, adjustable proportioning valve, hydraulic clutch master(Wilwood), AJE crossmember, UPR coil overs and c/c plates, through the floor sub frame connectors, tubular rear control arms, 3.27 rear gear.
Well my build was originally a 2.3 turbo. After gathering almost all the parts to do the car I made a big mistake. I rented a 2008 Corvette and ran it in the Texas Mile. Well, 165 mph in a standing mile in a 436 hp stock auto vette got me thinkin' maybe the 2.3 turbo wont be as fast. So after thinking about it for a month, I sold all of 2.3 stuff, and bought a complete 2002 LQ4, with all accessories, alt, ps pump, a/c compressor, mass air meter, computer and harness shipped to my door for $1,030.00. Then I bought a 2006 GTO M6 for $ 1,400.00 shipped. the engine has 102k miles and the trans has 18k miles.
So I started on the engine, I did not think the stock truck intake would clear the stock hood. So I bought a LS1 intake for $30.00 minus the fuel rail and injectors. I modified the intake to accept the truck injectors, there was a step in the bottom of the injector bore on the intake, a 17/64 drill bit worked perfectly. Then I modified the truck fuel rail, I cut and plugged the crossover tube, and the factory inlet and return.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg&newest=1
I also drilled and tapped the end of the truck rail to accept -6 fittings.
The I modified the truck water pump to clear the LS1 intake, I removed the stock outlet, a 1 5/16 freeze plug will plug the hole, drilled and tapped the front like a Camaro, and screwed in a 1 inch pipe. the outer is the same as the original truck outlet.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg&newest=1
So far the fuel rail mod was free, and the water pump mod was $12.00, (I had to buy a 1 1/4 hole saw bit) and $2.99 for the pipe.
Now it is starting to look like an engine.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg&newest=1
I will cut the stock power steering bracket to remove the big hunk of aluminum from the top where the alt used to sit. I will add pics when that happens. I will also show what I did to the alternator to mount it.
I am going this route because I am to cheap to buy the Camaro water pump and accessories brackets. Why buy them when I already have ones that work?
more pics
http://s392.photobucket.com/home/zipster93/index
_________________
1993 Mustang coupe, royal blue, black interior, 95 Mustang GT booster and master cylinder, 2003 front brakes, spindles, rotors, stock 95 rear stuff, adjustable proportioning valve, hydraulic clutch master(Wilwood), AJE crossmember, UPR coil overs and c/c plates, through the floor sub frame connectors, tubular rear control arms, 3.27 rear gear.
Well my build was originally a 2.3 turbo. After gathering almost all the parts to do the car I made a big mistake. I rented a 2008 Corvette and ran it in the Texas Mile. Well, 165 mph in a standing mile in a 436 hp stock auto vette got me thinkin' maybe the 2.3 turbo wont be as fast. So after thinking about it for a month, I sold all of 2.3 stuff, and bought a complete 2002 LQ4, with all accessories, alt, ps pump, a/c compressor, mass air meter, computer and harness shipped to my door for $1,030.00. Then I bought a 2006 GTO M6 for $ 1,400.00 shipped. the engine has 102k miles and the trans has 18k miles.
So I started on the engine, I did not think the stock truck intake would clear the stock hood. So I bought a LS1 intake for $30.00 minus the fuel rail and injectors. I modified the intake to accept the truck injectors, there was a step in the bottom of the injector bore on the intake, a 17/64 drill bit worked perfectly. Then I modified the truck fuel rail, I cut and plugged the crossover tube, and the factory inlet and return.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg&newest=1
I also drilled and tapped the end of the truck rail to accept -6 fittings.
The I modified the truck water pump to clear the LS1 intake, I removed the stock outlet, a 1 5/16 freeze plug will plug the hole, drilled and tapped the front like a Camaro, and screwed in a 1 inch pipe. the outer is the same as the original truck outlet.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg&newest=1
So far the fuel rail mod was free, and the water pump mod was $12.00, (I had to buy a 1 1/4 hole saw bit) and $2.99 for the pipe.
Now it is starting to look like an engine.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...y.jpg&newest=1
I will cut the stock power steering bracket to remove the big hunk of aluminum from the top where the alt used to sit. I will add pics when that happens. I will also show what I did to the alternator to mount it.
I am going this route because I am to cheap to buy the Camaro water pump and accessories brackets. Why buy them when I already have ones that work?
more pics
http://s392.photobucket.com/home/zipster93/index
_________________
#3
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Celina, Texas
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks on the compliment! I did the sub frame connectors, I used steel from work. We had some 1.5 x 2.0 rectangle tubing, they go from the torque boxes to the front of the front sub frame. They are about 5 feet long each.
Last edited by zipster; 09-01-2010 at 03:26 PM.
#5
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Celina, Texas
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am going to edit the size of the tubing, its 1.5 x 2.0 rectangular tubing. Its the same width as the front sub frame.
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...1.jpg&newest=1
http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/p...1.jpg&newest=1