Oil pump priming
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Oil pump priming
So i'm ready to fire it, I turned the engine over last night with no plugs it nothing hooked up but the starter and I can't get a reading on oil pressure. THe pump is not priming by just turning it over with the starter... Is it because its not turning it fast enough? If I need to prime it through the oil pressure gauge port how is that done correctly? Half the ppl I ask say **** and fire it... But I really don't want to take the engine back out... ANy help would be great. BTW I've changed the oil pan and was retardedly carfull when i put the pick up tube back in as to not pinch the o ring. Please help, I want to drive my 3 year build.
The following users liked this post:
Chris'stransam (02-27-2021)
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (12)
There are a few ways to prime it. but if you have a problem with the oil pickup or system, priming is not going to help in the long run.
There was a magazine artical on using a 5 gal bucket and a SBC oil pump with some hoese and fittings. There is also a priming tool that is about $230+. Both were talked about in some prior threads here. Both just force oil into the system via one of the oil gallery ports, much like a Oil Accumulator system on race cars.
What is your setup, any mod's to it? (what Oil Pan, pickup, etc).
O-Ring is the most common problem, cut, pinched, not seated. (but if you say you got it right, then on to the other areas)
Then there is the Pickup Tube that is not seated correctly in the pump (check out the BRP Oil Pickup girdle $25.00, great item to correct his issue) or the pickup is too close to the bottom of the pan.
Many have packed or filled the pump prior to assembly with grease, oil, Vaseline, etc to assist in priming or getting the pump to get a vacuum to suck the oil up.
Good Luck
BC
There was a magazine artical on using a 5 gal bucket and a SBC oil pump with some hoese and fittings. There is also a priming tool that is about $230+. Both were talked about in some prior threads here. Both just force oil into the system via one of the oil gallery ports, much like a Oil Accumulator system on race cars.
What is your setup, any mod's to it? (what Oil Pan, pickup, etc).
O-Ring is the most common problem, cut, pinched, not seated. (but if you say you got it right, then on to the other areas)
Then there is the Pickup Tube that is not seated correctly in the pump (check out the BRP Oil Pickup girdle $25.00, great item to correct his issue) or the pickup is too close to the bottom of the pan.
Many have packed or filled the pump prior to assembly with grease, oil, Vaseline, etc to assist in priming or getting the pump to get a vacuum to suck the oil up.
Good Luck
BC
#3
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
thats odd, i just turned mine over like you did and it pulled oil, i changed the pan too. it may not read that you have pressure but it could have filled the channels with oil. mine didnt show oil pressure but it did change the level of oil in the panso i figured it had primed and when it started i have 36 psi at 500 rpm 40 or more cruising and it goes all the way to 70+ when I rev it out
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
The engine is all stock 1998 corvette with a f body oil pan p/u tube windage etc. I have a improved racing road race baffle as well. I really dont want to spend another 250 for something I'm going to use once. I haven't opened the motor other than changing the pan, but it hasn't run in over 5 years. Is it possible to put a barb fitting on the top of the motor (oil pressure sensor port) and squeeze oil in from a bottle? How much pressure is needed to make this work?
I could pull the pan and inspect the p/u tube... I know I did it correct though, I read of having this problem if it was done wrong...
I could pull the pan and inspect the p/u tube... I know I did it correct though, I read of having this problem if it was done wrong...
#5
The engine is all stock 1998 corvette with a f body oil pan p/u tube windage etc. I have a improved racing road race baffle as well. I really dont want to spend another 250 for something I'm going to use once. I haven't opened the motor other than changing the pan, but it hasn't run in over 5 years. Is it possible to put a barb fitting on the top of the motor (oil pressure sensor port) and squeeze oil in from a bottle? How much pressure is needed to make this work?
I could pull the pan and inspect the p/u tube... I know I did it correct though, I read of having this problem if it was done wrong...
I could pull the pan and inspect the p/u tube... I know I did it correct though, I read of having this problem if it was done wrong...
#6
i had the same problem with my ls1.
Just make sure the plugs are out and the fuel and spark is shut off.
pretty much just crank away. I cranked it about 7-10 times for about 3-5 sec each after having poured oil down the heads with the valve covers removed......
Just make sure the plugs are out and the fuel and spark is shut off.
pretty much just crank away. I cranked it about 7-10 times for about 3-5 sec each after having poured oil down the heads with the valve covers removed......
#7
You could pre-oil by building a small tank with 3-4" pvc pipe , cap the ends , drill and tap for a pipe fittng on each end, use a small ball valve on each end, plumb one end to one of you oil galleys, the one above the filter is where i went. Have one end of the tank screw on , fill with oil , and using an air coupling, pressure it in at low pressure, should fill all the galleys and prime the pump as well.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
I was afraid to pre-lube with motor oil because I was afraid the oil would wash away the assembly lube. I assumed the assembly lube would protect my engine longer than the pre-lube coat of oil. I figured if there was no oil pressure, I would rather have the assembly lube there than a pre-coat of motor oil.
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (15)
I was afraid to pre-lube with motor oil because I was afraid the oil would wash away the assembly lube. I assumed the assembly lube would protect my engine longer than the pre-lube coat of oil. I figured if there was no oil pressure, I would rather have the assembly lube there than a pre-coat of motor oil.
#10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Ah, my bad. I really don't think you have anything to be worried about unless you have reason to believe that you messed something up when working on the engine. If you put the o-ring on, your pickup is correctly installed, and you have 5 or so quarts of oil in the pan, you should really be okay. Your engine will start, jump to cold idle engine speed, and you'll have pressure in 2-3 seconds! If you don't trust your gauge or sending unit, install a mechanical one. No worries!!
#14
X-3 on the mechanical gauge-You were worried about displacing the assembly lube? You put that on because of lack of oil, now you have the oil and the prime, and the assembly lube would have been history by now anyway. Just do not use high pressure with the air, just enough to push the oil in and fill everything up, it will most likely leave a bit of the lube in some areas anyway.However, the decision is yours, good luck
#15
On The Tree
Thread Starter
welp, I got home and turned it over for about 15sec straight, and boom 30 psi. I plugged it all in, and with a few loose ends.... it fired right up! Oil pressure is around 60+ I only ran it for about a min or so but it sounds amazing ( open headers) As far as I can tell everything is straight, no leaks at all. Thanks a ton for all of your imput. Heres a quick video.
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=100_1208.mp4
Thanks guys
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=100_1208.mp4
Thanks guys