The Yellow Submarine goes Nuclear - LS2/T56 Miata
#82
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Build Progress:
Parts Arrival- Got all the GMPP parts (19155066 kit, CTS-V WP and 2 wiring plugs) from Berger Chevy, and 3 large and heavy boxes arrived from V8R.. woohoo! Opened the subframe just to check it out, assuming the other boxes are a driveshaft and a couple of axles with hubs, but not sure yet.. will open them up tonight.
Parts Arrival- Got all the GMPP parts (19155066 kit, CTS-V WP and 2 wiring plugs) from Berger Chevy, and 3 large and heavy boxes arrived from V8R.. woohoo! Opened the subframe just to check it out, assuming the other boxes are a driveshaft and a couple of axles with hubs, but not sure yet.. will open them up tonight.
#84
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I'll make you a deal on my 13k mile GTO stuff, will be everything you need including water pump and crank pulley...
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Build Progress:
Parts Update- Frame rails and clutch master adapter should ship this week, oil pan should ship next week.
Also, been chasing a busted coil and some missing parts from the pullout I bought (yes, for almost 2 months). Final answer is "buy what you need at the dealer, fax us the receipt and we'll credit you back". So, have to run over to Berger and order up some parts.. The yard is standing behind the sale, so that is nice. Looks like about $450 in parts, ouch!
Parts Arrival- Another box from Flyin Miata. Radiator, radiator hoses, some hose kits, all kinds of little odds-n-ends. I hope to inspect everything tonight and get some photos up.
Parts Update- Frame rails and clutch master adapter should ship this week, oil pan should ship next week.
Also, been chasing a busted coil and some missing parts from the pullout I bought (yes, for almost 2 months). Final answer is "buy what you need at the dealer, fax us the receipt and we'll credit you back". So, have to run over to Berger and order up some parts.. The yard is standing behind the sale, so that is nice. Looks like about $450 in parts, ouch!
Parts Arrival- Another box from Flyin Miata. Radiator, radiator hoses, some hose kits, all kinds of little odds-n-ends. I hope to inspect everything tonight and get some photos up.
#86
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Build Progress:
Parts Inventory- Unboxed everything I have received to date, took pictures (with my new camera - 14mp Kodak M575 - sweet!) so I can see what I have and don't have...
Parts Inventory- Unboxed everything I have received to date, took pictures (with my new camera - 14mp Kodak M575 - sweet!) so I can see what I have and don't have...
#87
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V8Roadsters Driveline Kit- G2 kit. Clockwise from top-left: Hubs, bolts, bearings, and axles.
Driveshaft bolts, diffy mount tabs, poly front mount (upgrade) for the Getrag, driveshaft adapter plate, Driveshaft (with Aluminum upgrade).
V8Roadsters 90-97 rearward kit- As packaged.
After unwrapping the rear diffy mount arm (left) and the tranny cross brace (right). Motor munts installed on the subframe.
Driveshaft bolts, diffy mount tabs, poly front mount (upgrade) for the Getrag, driveshaft adapter plate, Driveshaft (with Aluminum upgrade).
V8Roadsters 90-97 rearward kit- As packaged.
After unwrapping the rear diffy mount arm (left) and the tranny cross brace (right). Motor munts installed on the subframe.
#88
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Misc Parts- Clockwise from left: T56 adapter to change GTO tranny to F-Body tranny, used B&M short shifter, used C5 crank pulley, B&M shifter parts.
Flyin Miata motor mount heat shields, Heavy duty sway mount hardware, heavy duty sway mounts.
GMPP front dress kit & water pump- The GMPP 19155066 kit, plus the CTS-V water pump 89017592. Not shown is the 2 wiring harness leads for the ALT 15306009 and AC Comp 88953303.
Flyin Miata V8 crossflow radiator kit- Radiator, cap, upper and lower hoses, 6" upper hose pipe, clamps, 1/4" steam line with fitting and clamps.
Flyin Miata motor mount heat shields, Heavy duty sway mount hardware, heavy duty sway mounts.
GMPP front dress kit & water pump- The GMPP 19155066 kit, plus the CTS-V water pump 89017592. Not shown is the 2 wiring harness leads for the ALT 15306009 and AC Comp 88953303.
Flyin Miata V8 crossflow radiator kit- Radiator, cap, upper and lower hoses, 6" upper hose pipe, clamps, 1/4" steam line with fitting and clamps.
#89
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Misc Parts- Top half is Flyin Miata Driveline Differential kit: Vent hose, new axle seals, vent hose cap and vent hose barb. Bottom half is some random stuff: Unknown hose (always have to have one, right?), (3) AC O-rings and a diode, firewall grommet for PCM harness and starter heat shield blanket.
Flyin Miata hose kit- Clockwise from top-left: 6' of heater hose, 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, 3/4" to 5/8" adapter, (3) 5/8" splices, (5) straps, (12) clamps, 18" of 1/2" hose, 3/4" 90 degree hose, (3) stock Miata heater hoses.
Flyin Miata hose kit- Clockwise from top-left: 6' of heater hose, 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, 3/4" to 5/8" adapter, (3) 5/8" splices, (5) straps, (12) clamps, 18" of 1/2" hose, 3/4" 90 degree hose, (3) stock Miata heater hoses.
#90
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Clutch Hydraulics- Finally dug out my spare parts - no go, it's a 1" master. So ordered up the remainder from V8R since they had to ship me the oil pan anyhow, tossing it in that box. Was hoping to reuse stuff I have around the garage but no such luck. Figured this is a "buy it and forget it" opportunity.
Sounds like the remainder of the parts on order will arive this week, which is good.
On vacation the next 2 weeks, trying to capitalize on some holiday time coupled with the vacation to get 16 days off in a row. Hope to get some significant progress done in between visiting the GFs family in Canada and various other holiday obligations.
Sounds like the remainder of the parts on order will arive this week, which is good.
On vacation the next 2 weeks, trying to capitalize on some holiday time coupled with the vacation to get 16 days off in a row. Hope to get some significant progress done in between visiting the GFs family in Canada and various other holiday obligations.
#91
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Build Update:
Engine Bay Cleanout - Everything removed from engine bay except brake master/booster/lines, clutch master/line, and the two wiring harnesses. Everything is pulled loose, tomorrow plan to designate and cut out all wiring no longer needed. Will attempt to start at Link ECU and salvage entire harness to be sold with engine.
Additional Parts - Considering buying a brake proportioning valve, the FM BBK is nice but I think it could use some additional balancing... open to suggestions/opinions on the matter.
Engine Bay Cleanout - Everything removed from engine bay except brake master/booster/lines, clutch master/line, and the two wiring harnesses. Everything is pulled loose, tomorrow plan to designate and cut out all wiring no longer needed. Will attempt to start at Link ECU and salvage entire harness to be sold with engine.
Additional Parts - Considering buying a brake proportioning valve, the FM BBK is nice but I think it could use some additional balancing... open to suggestions/opinions on the matter.
#92
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Build Update:
Body Prep -
Engine bay completely empty.
Every grommet, wire tie, and rubber plug removed from engine bay.
Lower radiator mounts removed.
Sway bar mounts removed (the passenger one was cracked, I always had a 'popping' on track under hard cornering, now I know why)
Clutch master, brake master and booster removed.
Fuel tank removed.
All brake lines and fuel lines removed.
Fuel pump and filter removed (pulled lines as a complete unit).
Engine/dash wiring harness is out.
Driving lights and horns removed.
Front bumper removed.
Wiring removal wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Next up for wiring is to thin it out, plus add back wiring that will be needed for gauges. Trouble is, not sure which side gets them yet so can't really do much there until the senders are on the motor. So, kind of at a stand still there since I don't have any of the sending units ordered yet.. not sure all the gauges are going to fit in the cluster. Might look at that tonight.
Still going round and round with the junkyard. I went ahead and bought the $430+ worth of parts at the dealer as instructed, and now (surprise!) the refund is taking a long time (because, you know, issuing a refund with ebay and paypal is such a process.. why, it takes about 10 mouse clicks! And then the waiting for the electrons to make it to the servers, milliseconds!). What a PITA. Moral of the story, kids, is dispute payment the second you see an issue, and don't expect anyone to give anything but lip service. Hold $5775 and they will be slightly more agreeable. I suspect in the end I will get my refund for the parts I had to replace, but good grief... it could be simplier and less painful and a helluva lot faster. Bought it October 28, and here we are 55 days later still dicking around with it.
So, the shell is 99% gutted. Next up is pulling firewall insulation & tunnel insulation, and then cutting things. Woot!
Body Prep -
Engine bay completely empty.
Every grommet, wire tie, and rubber plug removed from engine bay.
Lower radiator mounts removed.
Sway bar mounts removed (the passenger one was cracked, I always had a 'popping' on track under hard cornering, now I know why)
Clutch master, brake master and booster removed.
Fuel tank removed.
All brake lines and fuel lines removed.
Fuel pump and filter removed (pulled lines as a complete unit).
Engine/dash wiring harness is out.
Driving lights and horns removed.
Front bumper removed.
Wiring removal wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. Next up for wiring is to thin it out, plus add back wiring that will be needed for gauges. Trouble is, not sure which side gets them yet so can't really do much there until the senders are on the motor. So, kind of at a stand still there since I don't have any of the sending units ordered yet.. not sure all the gauges are going to fit in the cluster. Might look at that tonight.
Still going round and round with the junkyard. I went ahead and bought the $430+ worth of parts at the dealer as instructed, and now (surprise!) the refund is taking a long time (because, you know, issuing a refund with ebay and paypal is such a process.. why, it takes about 10 mouse clicks! And then the waiting for the electrons to make it to the servers, milliseconds!). What a PITA. Moral of the story, kids, is dispute payment the second you see an issue, and don't expect anyone to give anything but lip service. Hold $5775 and they will be slightly more agreeable. I suspect in the end I will get my refund for the parts I had to replace, but good grief... it could be simplier and less painful and a helluva lot faster. Bought it October 28, and here we are 55 days later still dicking around with it.
So, the shell is 99% gutted. Next up is pulling firewall insulation & tunnel insulation, and then cutting things. Woot!
#93
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Some photos of the progress. Calling it quits for the day, put in about 8 hours or so. From driving to gutted, I figure I am at around 40-50 actual work time.
Before the harness came out:
Before the harness came out:
#95
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The wiring harness laid out:
Some Closeups...
Driver's side:
Closeup of driver side , near firewall:
Passenger side :
Closeup of passenger side, near firewall:
Some Closeups...
Driver's side:
Closeup of driver side , near firewall:
Passenger side :
Closeup of passenger side, near firewall:
#97
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Research Update:
Wire Tuck - I want a clean engine bay, so been doing a bunch of research on wire tucked LSx motors.. not finding much, sadly. The LT1 was a nicely tuckable motor, the LS series with coils on top, not so much. If anyone has examples of a clean LSx motor with wiring tucked, please share.
I did stumble across this thread:
http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum...ad.php?t=23718 which looks to be quite handy, so I'll be at least attempting to tuck all the stock Miata wires when it gets reinstalled. Not sure how much I can do but I'm optimistic. I should be able to hide all the stock Miata wiring in the fenders, I think.
Wire Tuck - I want a clean engine bay, so been doing a bunch of research on wire tucked LSx motors.. not finding much, sadly. The LT1 was a nicely tuckable motor, the LS series with coils on top, not so much. If anyone has examples of a clean LSx motor with wiring tucked, please share.
I did stumble across this thread:
http://www.clubroadster.net/vb_forum...ad.php?t=23718 which looks to be quite handy, so I'll be at least attempting to tuck all the stock Miata wires when it gets reinstalled. Not sure how much I can do but I'm optimistic. I should be able to hide all the stock Miata wiring in the fenders, I think.
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theres another miata guy doing his coils reloc'd to the back of the heads.. from there you could run wires along the bottom of the valve cover/under the exhaust.. But that only solves part of the problem right
sure does look clean w no wires/plumbing, huh?
sure does look clean w no wires/plumbing, huh?
#99
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They do make a coil harness so you can relocate the coils possible under the dash. It gives you 2ft of harness. I saw it on some TV show recently. I'll see if I can find it.