Its not a great pic but you get the idea, this is my engine completely wired, before i ran it through the firewall. I can get some more recent pics if you would like.

 

more pics would be great! I'm not wanting to relocate coils per se, it was more of wanting all the other wires cleaned up. Injectors, sensors, etc. Everything that makes the engine visually cluttered.

 

Build Update:

Parts Ordered - Broke down and orderd some POR-15 for the engine, some red caliper paint and some high temp paint for the headers/exhaust. I swore last time to never do it again... but I hate an ugly motor so expect much bitching on this in the future..

Other than the cam upgrade, I *think*

Parts Delivery - More parts arrived! Oil pan and related, frame rales and related, clutch hydraulic kit, and the Body Control Module.

V8Roadsters remote oil filter pan:



The baffle system is fairly slick, and yet dirt simple. 4 hingles with retainer 'springs' over the holes that flop open based on g-forces and oil slosh.

Baffles shut:

Baffles open:

 

V8Roadsters frame rails:



V8Roadsters Clutch kit:


06 GTO BCM, PIM and gas pedal:

 

Build Update:

Frog Arms - Didn't have a pciture of these yet.. so here they are.



Did a mockup of them, after we pulled the fenders:

 

Wire Tuck - Sorted out the idea on the body wire tuck..

Driver's side reference photos:




Passenger's side reference photos:




Basically going to come out into the fender and route behind the frog arm. hard to explain, but it'll make sense later when I show the routing. Figured might as well get the before photos up while I am thinking about it.

 

Removed the pedals and firewall/floor heat shielding.



Lastly, closeup of the damage (very minor) with the fender out of the way. purely cosmetic, the mounts are fine:




Calling it for the day, need some rest (still fighting a cold) but 5 hours is better than none. Hope to finalize cam selection later today (going off the shelf, I'm not that bloody picky to make that much difference since it is a toy street car not a competition car).. Was thinking VRX5, that may be a tad lumpy for a DD so may go VRX4 or similar (basically staying ~230 max duration). Still not sure. Bottom line, I think it is going to be fine regardless as long as I get it programmed for it. I would call my LT1 RX7 quite lumpy (IMNSHO) with a 230/236 576/570 CC467, and it is perfectly acceptable to me as a DD so I don't think I can go wrong with the 4 or 5.

Oh, and Merry Christmas to everyone.. hope Santa found you good enough to bring you lots of shiny parts.

 

The frog arms are a brilliant idea... I've never spent much time customizing uni-body cars so I didn't think of that when I built my Thunderbird. I have been looking for ways to stiffen that chassis since I got it and making a set of those with some sub frame connectors should do the trick. Thanks for the idea.

 

Man you are going to have a small fortune in this little car.....

 

so the frogarms just bolt in?

 

Yup, just bolts to the door hinge points and to the holes where the front ABS wiring passes out of the engine bay. Check pics above for general location.

 

Already do. $16k and counting (plus the original purchase price of $15k if you want to get picky!). Figure I have anohter $2k at least before it runs, plus body work and paint.

 

So what, its just money; now more pics!!!

 

Sorry, been working late... Here ya go.









I havent finished the routing on the rear of the engine. That will be cleaned up. I eliminated the connectors for the coils, but you could just move them to the rear of the coil brackets. I ran all the grounds to the interior, where i had a heavy gauge wire running to the battery. So the only ground ill need is a heavy ground from the body to the engine. My fuel lines are going to come up from the rear of the engine and split then go to the rails so i can plug the front ports. My heater lines are going from the water pump to the left frame rail to a AN bulkhead connector then run my heater lines through the wheel well. My oil lines will do the same through the drivers side frame rail through a bulkhead connector to my remote oil filter in the drivers wheel well under the liner, planning to switch to AN lines for the radiator... Hopefully its clean...

Mark

 

that looks great, wheres the loom/wrap from?

 

Build Update:

I f-d up and am out of sequence. I need the motor swapped to GMPP and V8R trim in order to get it in the car for clearancing, but I need parts painted before I do final assembly (and I just bought paint yesterday - went POR-15, arrives on 1/3), and I need the cam swap parts in the motor before painted parts can even be installed.. and the cam isn't bought or even picked out yet. Sooooo, I am frantically trying to decide on a cam.

VRX4 or VRX5 are the current favs.. depending on who you believe and what you read, the 5 is too large for a stock LS2 or is it the cat's meow.. not sure what to believe. I've talked to 2 different cam vendors, and both told me the same thing, I want two different goals. Both conversations happened in email, and I think the goal is being lost in translation. So, I was going to call Vengeance and talk to those guys but I am thinking they are off this week (went to voicemail). Will call back down there tomorrow and see if they can help me out.

Fast Motorsports (recommended by a pal) suggested this:
22x 23x ~600 ~600 114
(final specs after payment for cam selection fee so no clue what it really is)

Cam motion suggested this:
226 233 588 578 112

VRX4
228 230 588 592 112

VRX5
236 238 601 605 113

The Cam Motion has the lowest lift, which makes me lean towards the 4 or 5... still unsure. Spent 5 hours today surfing youtube and here for opinions and dyno results, no more decided than yesterday.

So, with a stock LS2, CAI, no head work, no intake work, stock injectors, and 1.5" primary headers -> 2.5" duals -> 3" catless single exhaust and a road race (not drag) power band with lumpy idle, what do you guys think? Still leaning towards the VRX4/5, but opinions appreciated!

 

What about accessories - Alt, AC and related wiring there?

Ditto on wrap/loom - looks like TechFlex?? If so, which series (there is about, oh, 500 to choose from!) and where did you buy it? I'd probably grab it at PartsExpress since I shop there already.. or Mouser.. like both for electronics and electrical goodies.

Looking sharp!!!! That's what I am striving for. My color scheme is going to be silver motor and accessories, black coils and wires and intake. Unsure on coil covers and fuel rail yet. I am also considering reworking the heater core connections to be passenger side, looks like there is room above it under the dash to do, but not sure yet. That's a bit of screwing about that I don't really have to do but visually it would be nice.... still undecided.

Also, considering a satin black engine bay.... the yellow shows every sin and there is a lot of it in there.

 

Go with the cam motion. Their lobes for the LS motors are far superior in power and power under the curve. Also have a look at EPS they are really really having great results with the 222/226 cam. Every thread I have read with that cam in the dyno forum has been 400+ rwhp and 380+rwtq all with stock heads and ls6 intakes.

 

Your looking at my accessories... Alt is on the bottom left(drivers side), and wired, And EWP. I am trying to get it as clean as i can, I will probably add A/C at a later time. But it would be easy to wire in any of the accessories, as i have a small harness running down the drivers side near the oil pan rail that could wire any other accessories. My DBW TB is actually its own harness run under the intake...

Its TechFlex Insultherm, good for like 2000 degrees direct heat or some crazy crap like that... Its awesome, but damn expensive, I used a 25ft roll of 1/4 I think and it was like $40 shipped... I need to get more, for my interior portion I am going to get there split loom in the same look so when i need to add/modify i can still access it.

Great minds think alike!!! I am doing exactly that, I got lucky on my swap and Porsche used a 12" tube to go from the fire wall to the heater core (under the dash) so i am going to redirect it to the passenger side and have it come out in the fender area where my heater control valve will be. I have spent more plumbing my heater circuit then my fuel AND oil circuit... Damn AN **** is EXPENSIVE!!! And i am using hardline...

My main goal right now is to make it run, I have done this project as a bunch of mini projects so i dont get bored, its getting to the point of finishing alot of stuff up, then I have to decide if i will keep this tub or get a different one, my swap was built on the idea of modify the tub as little as possible so it can all be swapped.

Mark

 

Oil Dipstick - Soooo... I'm missing something.

The LS2 GTO pan has the dipstick in it. The V8R pan has no provision for a dipstick. The GTO block seems to have no plug to pop out for a diptick.

What am I missing??? How am I to put a dipstick in once I swap pans?? Was looking at the Lokar ED-5008, but no place to put it makes it kind of hard to check oil!