The Yellow Submarine goes Nuclear - LS2/T56 Miata
#142
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Build Update:
Rear Subframe - Completely disassembled it. Proof that good antisieze works, the axles slid out of the hubs without need of a torch or BFG.
Cleaned the rear brake parts and the rear control arms, next up is the subframe itself.
Looks like I need to move some exhaust hanger(s) since I am using the take-off exhaust from FM's Elvis which is a NB. The mount on the rear subframe for the inlet side of the muffler appears to be too far to the passenger side. Here is the one I am referring to at the 12" mark, viewed from behind the car, driver side is on left. Going to have to cut it loose and move it over prior to painting the subframe.
Rear Subframe - Completely disassembled it. Proof that good antisieze works, the axles slid out of the hubs without need of a torch or BFG.
Cleaned the rear brake parts and the rear control arms, next up is the subframe itself.
Looks like I need to move some exhaust hanger(s) since I am using the take-off exhaust from FM's Elvis which is a NB. The mount on the rear subframe for the inlet side of the muffler appears to be too far to the passenger side. Here is the one I am referring to at the 12" mark, viewed from behind the car, driver side is on left. Going to have to cut it loose and move it over prior to painting the subframe.
#143
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Build Update:
Rear Subframe - Well, was going to set the rear diffy up, but apparently I am missing the mounting hardware for it.. Soooo, can't do anything there till Shandelle @ V8R sends the stuff over. At least unboxed the Getrag and looked at it.
Rear Subframe - Well, was going to set the rear diffy up, but apparently I am missing the mounting hardware for it.. Soooo, can't do anything there till Shandelle @ V8R sends the stuff over. At least unboxed the Getrag and looked at it.
#144
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Who says you can't have fun in the garage?
Front & Rear Suspension - Disassembled front suspension, cleaned all the parts up.
Cleaned, wire wheeled, primed and painted all 8 control arms.
Calling it for the night... 12 hours is plenty.
Front & Rear Suspension - Disassembled front suspension, cleaned all the parts up.
Cleaned, wire wheeled, primed and painted all 8 control arms.
Calling it for the night... 12 hours is plenty.
#145
wow, alot of progress!!
im getting a 91 240sx coupe in 2 weeks and building it..then HOPEFULLY in a few years my uncle sells me his rusted to hell 02 z28 so i can take the LS1 out of it
cant wait to see more work done to this beast..
im getting a 91 240sx coupe in 2 weeks and building it..then HOPEFULLY in a few years my uncle sells me his rusted to hell 02 z28 so i can take the LS1 out of it
cant wait to see more work done to this beast..
#148
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You need to get back into a Miata, my man.. but with a LSx in it. The Smurf was a great car, was it not?
#149
id like a miata, but i dont think a 240lb guy will fit in one and still be comfy enough to daily drive
#151
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Heh, IF it all gets done.
What info you want? Here's my take on it... It's a preferred swap for the Mazda due to price, availability and size. It's a stock GM Getrag rear from various Caddy IRS rears.. 3.42:1 ratio, LSD. Cheap (relatively speaking) at a price of $800 (GMPD), part 25873500.
What info you want? Here's my take on it... It's a preferred swap for the Mazda due to price, availability and size. It's a stock GM Getrag rear from various Caddy IRS rears.. 3.42:1 ratio, LSD. Cheap (relatively speaking) at a price of $800 (GMPD), part 25873500.
#152
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Research Update:
Firewall gaskets - been searching high and low for something that is similar in style to the OEM type, with a (for lack of a better word) protruding 'foreskin' to cover the wires that can be taped around, as opposed to the flat 'circumsized' style that is basically a rubber donut. Found this at JEGS.. looks promising:
Item 60778, $15.99 each... 2" size and cut to fit.
Anyone else have leads of a similar part? The OEM Mazda one is apparently part of the wiring harness assembly from what I see in the part diagrams, so I am trying to find some new item that I can use.
Firewall gaskets - been searching high and low for something that is similar in style to the OEM type, with a (for lack of a better word) protruding 'foreskin' to cover the wires that can be taped around, as opposed to the flat 'circumsized' style that is basically a rubber donut. Found this at JEGS.. looks promising:
Item 60778, $15.99 each... 2" size and cut to fit.
Anyone else have leads of a similar part? The OEM Mazda one is apparently part of the wiring harness assembly from what I see in the part diagrams, so I am trying to find some new item that I can use.
#153
lol @ that analogy..
I remember seeing some billet firewall grommets before, but i like those more, tbqh (dontjudge)
what kind of power can those units handle? Interested to see if its a contender for an irs swap instead of a cobra/c4 rear
I remember seeing some billet firewall grommets before, but i like those more, tbqh (dontjudge)
what kind of power can those units handle? Interested to see if its a contender for an irs swap instead of a cobra/c4 rear
#154
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Build Update:
Parts Bought - Picked up a set of custom fuel rail covers... hope they fit under the hood. See here (or ebay): http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3169 Color to be determined, probably color painted to match engine but I'll figure that out later.
Parts Received - POR-15 engine kit, caliper kit and exhaust paint all arrived.. as did the fuel filter. Woot!
Parts Bought - Picked up a set of custom fuel rail covers... hope they fit under the hood. See here (or ebay): http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3169 Color to be determined, probably color painted to match engine but I'll figure that out later.
Parts Received - POR-15 engine kit, caliper kit and exhaust paint all arrived.. as did the fuel filter. Woot!
#155
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http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/pro...firewall-port/
No clue, I think upwards of 500hp but honestly coldn't tell ya.
#156
Billet, seen those too... but expensive as hell IIRC ($40+ each) and I agree, not a huge fan. Here's one option for example (belongs on a 50's rod not a Miata)
http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/pro...firewall-port/
No clue, I think upwards of 500hp but honestly coldn't tell ya.
http://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/pro...firewall-port/
No clue, I think upwards of 500hp but honestly coldn't tell ya.
freud was right
and yeah the billet ones are too much $
#158
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dunno, looks like stamped steel. I'll paint mine to match the body or engine bay to hide it, but they are going to be in places you can't see easily anyhow, so it won't matter in my case.
But if you loom them up nicely, I guess that's the point, eh? I like a tucked engine bay, personally.. wiring is ugly (funny that I engineer wiring for a living, ha!).
As 'trick' as those ^ are it sure draws a lot of attention to a downfacing bundle of wires .. I was hoping itd be something neat i could use on my 65 but i think youre on the right track
#159
What? You'd take out the original? But that motor sounds soooooooo sweet in that car... love that!! I'd ratehr a 240/260/280Z myself, but none of those are convertibles.
You need to get back into a Miata, my man.. but with a LSx in it. The Smurf was a great car, was it not?
You need to get back into a Miata, my man.. but with a LSx in it. The Smurf was a great car, was it not?
#160
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Build Update:
Parts Arrival - Fuel rail arrived, as did the remote oil filter adapter, oil hose and clutch bleed line mounting tabs.
Suspension Painting - Touched up the paint on the 8 control arms, don't look too bad. Going to be under the car, so not too worried about it.
Dual Feed Fuel Rail Research - Trying to figure out the best way to make a dual feed out of the fuel rail, to eliminate the crossover line at the front. Using AN gets bloody expensive, so need to figure out how to pull it off with nylon or rubber.
Cold Air intake Research - Started to piece together what I am going to need on the CAI, looks like everyone converts to 3.5" tubing, so that's the route I'll likely take. Going to try and emulate the Swaptastic-style setup putting the filter in front of the driver's front tire.
Camshaft Research - Ron @ Vengeance recommends either the VRX3 if I want a less choppy idle or the VRX5 if I want much more chop.. the 5 will give up some lower power to gain it top end but the 1.5" primaries work opposite and should balance that out to some degree. The VRX4 falls in the middle, but with reportedly less chop than the VRX3 (strange but that is what Ron said and any youtube video I find seems to support that to some degree). The goal has always been 400 rwhp, and I am not convinced the 3 will get me there, so it's either 4 or 5. I do want a lope at idle, so I am leaning towards the 5 which is much like the cam in my RX7 so from that perspective it really isn't different from what I am used to. I'll finalize it with them tomorrow morning. Ron also said that the 5 may be better for a lighter car since it will give up a little low end making the car easier to launch at throttle. Makes logical sense, I suppose. Will be doing hardened pushrods (stock length) and a dual spring of some sort, considering the Comp 926's. $200 over the TEA but I think that's $200 worth of peice of mind. Looks like almost $1300 with programming (ugh). Gotta pay to play, I guess.
Parts Arrival - Fuel rail arrived, as did the remote oil filter adapter, oil hose and clutch bleed line mounting tabs.
Suspension Painting - Touched up the paint on the 8 control arms, don't look too bad. Going to be under the car, so not too worried about it.
Dual Feed Fuel Rail Research - Trying to figure out the best way to make a dual feed out of the fuel rail, to eliminate the crossover line at the front. Using AN gets bloody expensive, so need to figure out how to pull it off with nylon or rubber.
Cold Air intake Research - Started to piece together what I am going to need on the CAI, looks like everyone converts to 3.5" tubing, so that's the route I'll likely take. Going to try and emulate the Swaptastic-style setup putting the filter in front of the driver's front tire.
Camshaft Research - Ron @ Vengeance recommends either the VRX3 if I want a less choppy idle or the VRX5 if I want much more chop.. the 5 will give up some lower power to gain it top end but the 1.5" primaries work opposite and should balance that out to some degree. The VRX4 falls in the middle, but with reportedly less chop than the VRX3 (strange but that is what Ron said and any youtube video I find seems to support that to some degree). The goal has always been 400 rwhp, and I am not convinced the 3 will get me there, so it's either 4 or 5. I do want a lope at idle, so I am leaning towards the 5 which is much like the cam in my RX7 so from that perspective it really isn't different from what I am used to. I'll finalize it with them tomorrow morning. Ron also said that the 5 may be better for a lighter car since it will give up a little low end making the car easier to launch at throttle. Makes logical sense, I suppose. Will be doing hardened pushrods (stock length) and a dual spring of some sort, considering the Comp 926's. $200 over the TEA but I think that's $200 worth of peice of mind. Looks like almost $1300 with programming (ugh). Gotta pay to play, I guess.