Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

Parts Ordered - Ordered some stuff from Vengeance:

VRX4 Camshaft
Comp 26926 Dual Spring Kit Complete with Tool Steel Hardware
Comp 5/16 7.400 Hardened Pushrods
GM Front Cover Seal
GM Front Cover Gasket
GM Valve Cover Gaskets
GM Crank Bolt for LS Engine
Mail Order Base Burn

$1272 with shipping.

Decided to go with the VRX4 after talking with Ron and listening to a lot of youtube videos of idles and dynos. I should be able to hit my 400rwhp goal, and I think the idle will have enough lope to make me happy but not so much that it wants to stall or die at stoplights (or just sound like it wants to). I opted for the "go safe" vs. "go ***** out" in the selection figuring I am more likely to ba happy with a strong runner that makes less hp than something a little too hairy that is too lumpy and too peaky. Cam specs:

228 230 .588 .592 112LSA

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Some more parts photos.... (eventually you'll see pictures of this crap actually INSTALLED on the car, promise!!)

The POR-15 shipment arrived:


Caliper Paint Kit:


Engine Paint Kit and high Temp Exhaust paint:


Professional Products Fuel Rail Kit:


Remote Oil Filter block, 14' of hose (Neoprene) and clutch bleed line mounting tabs:

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

You have to acquire the right parts and build a foundation to make a strong building. I'm impressed because you have a plan and you are sticking to it... as painful as it is to wait on, I completely understand.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Well said (and thanks!). I've got a running excel spreadhsset with every step I can think of, 323 items at this point.... helps me to keep the sequence going and to flag items that will hold me up as I progress in the build. The cam got away from me and was out of sequence, so it's not foolproof. But for the most part, it is working. I've done my last 3 cars this way and it makes my life easier. Good place to keep notes on part numbers, websites to buy from, items to buy or research, and makes it easy to capture that "oh, I just remembered I need to...." item.

Right now, I am 70 done of 323, or 21.67% complete... sure doesn't feel like it tho!

Plan for this weekend (assuming parts arrive) is cam swap, and engine/accessory painting, and rear subframe weld/paint/build. Will be super happy if I can pull all that off.

Wallyman

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Build Update:

Control Arms - Painted! Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy gloss black, two+ coats.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Parts Arrival - More goodies came..

Oil Pan Gasket, repalcement coil, rear diffy bolts and Lokar dipstick:



Vengeance VRX4 Cam, Comp Cams 5/16" hardened pushrods, front cover gasket, and front cover seal:

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Problem!

Trying to build the rear end, but not sure where my 0.0 degree reference point is.. anyone that has some knowledge for me, please post up. Thanks!!

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...59#post4942259

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

WHAT THE ****.





More to come.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update (pre-bent **** discovery):

Parts Arrival - Comp springs and crank pulley arrived.

Steering Rack & Rear Subframe Brace - Primed and first coat painted.

Oil Pan - Pulled the stock oil pan, photos in case you haven't seen the inside of one:




Uncut windage tray:



Removed windage tray - pretty clean 13k miles:



Took the cover out of the V8R pan to clean it out, some better shots of the baffle system:

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Cut windage tray to mate up with the V8R pan:

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

And now, bent parts...

So, opened up the valve covers to pull springs for the cam swap, buddy was over helping me out. I pull all the rockers without paying any attention to the valves/springs. While I am finishing up pulling the last ones, he pulls out a pushrod:



What the hell.. then we notice:



Holy sheeeeet. Then we look in the exhaust port...




That thing is fucked. So much for "just a cam/spring/pushrod swap". The intake and heads come off tomorrow, and we'll see how much damage is in there. The valve stem is clean, so it wasn't run long that way.. and the piston looks (from the spark plug hole) to not be totally thrashed, but we shall see.

The motor has a 90 day parts warranty, but I tell you what, I'm expecting parts AND labor or a replacement head. I haven't run this thing, and it's totally boned! I'm going to document my case of all the damage, and put together the parts list I see needing repalcement and send it over to the yard, who I'll be calling at opening time Monday. They stood behind the last issue (although it took months to resolve) so hopefully they stand behind the sale on this too, but this is total BULLSHIT. Instead of painting parts tomorrow, I'm tearing things down that I never intended to touch.

I am soooooooooooooooooooo glad I did the cam swap and found this damage, I would have been totally screwed if I didn't and I tried to run it 3 months from now.

TAKE NOTE, FELLOW SWAPPERS! Pull the valve covers and check things out even if it is a super low mile motor!!!!! 13k miles, and yet this motor is screwed..

So, assuming the piston and clyinder walls are visually fine, here is what I (so far) see as additional parts needed to fix this:

(1) exhuast valve with seal
(2) Head gaskets (both heads are coming off, I don't trust the motor now)
(1) intake gasket

Should I also replace the lifter? Any other parts I am going to need? I already had everything for a cam swap, including new hardened pushrods, so I am set there (but you can be certain the yard will be ponying up payment for the one bent one, dammit!). Any other things I need to put on the list?

Very discouraging...

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Wow! The yards I use typically run engines in the vehicle if possible before they are pulled so things like that are noticed. Hopefully they take care of you properly. Best wishes.

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

Wow only 13k and that kind of damage? Impressive.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

The motor comes apart.

A fair bit of dirt inder the intake:




Packed the intake ports, and cleaned all the dirt off:



Pulled the head:



Definitely had PTV unhappiness:

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Valve doesn't look all beat up, surprisingly.. and it's all there:



The 'high-flow valve gap':



Observations:

Can still see honing on all cylinders.
#7 Exhaust valve is wet with oil.
#7 Piston is much blacker than the other 3 on that bank.
#7 Piston is the only one with flaking up carbon.
All the other cylinders have a carbon ring in the bore at the top of the stroke

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Uh-huh.. BUSTED.

The passenger valve cover has NEVER SEEN OIL.

It's perfectly clean, not stained from oil AT ALL. It was replaced prior to the motor shipping, without question. Just great. They KNEW it was fucked.. son of a BIIIIIIITTTTCCCCCHHHHHHH. I wondered why that valve cover was so damned clean on the outside.






(Thanks to Silver87 @ norotors.com for pointing out to check the cover!!! http://www.norotors.com/index.php?to...60748#msg60748)

It's allll starting to make sense. That coil was busted upon arrival, also. I attributed this to shipping damage since the valve cover was fine.



And without a huge amount of damage to the piston, I bet the damage was external, i.e. physical impact to that corner of the motor. They replaced the valve cover because it was smashed, but missed the coil and the valve.

80superbu

iTrader: (8)

Glad to see you caught that before installing it. I would have been extremely pissed if I didn't find out until I was ready to start it.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

And at which point the warranty would have been well expired. As it is, I'm 18 days from that point right now..

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Looks like #7 intake is bent as well. Weee.. NOT.

Here's my theory:

Car was driving, so motor turning
Severe accident (was told front and rear damage).
During accident, something hit the rear of the drivers side valve cover.
-Coil is hit and broken.
-Cover is broken (I found unidentified pieces of aluminum on the motor when I received it)
-#7 exhaust valve is hit while it is closed, bending the stem
-#7 intake valve is hit and also bends the stem
Motor is running (or spinning at least since a 6 speed) and the rocker tries to open #7 exhaust.
Rocker pushes on the hat instead of the stem
Valve opens about half way, wedging itself in the valve seal, binding up
Pushrod gives way and bends
...and there we sit.

The yard replaced the valve cover, cleaned up 99% of the broken pieces, and sells it to me. Looking at the ebay photo, I can't see any damage but the angle is weak, funny, eh?



Sooooo.... I'll update the thread once I speak to them tomorrow first thing. I'm hoping they are stand up, so keeping the fingers crossed.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

sorry to read about this
are you concerned that they may try to play the game of "you tore the engine apart and hence we cant warranty it"