Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

The intake valve is bent, too:

Jimbo1367

There is NO way that engine a only 13K miles. Its filthy IMO. tHE PICS SHOW ALOT OF OXIDATIOn on the block. Sorry to say.... but you were lied to. I'd say probably closer to 50-80K. Sorry to say it, but I think in the back of your head, you know this motor isn'y really only 13K miles.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

If someone on the planet could explain how pulling a valve cover could do that, maybe.. but since that isn't possible, pretty sure I am safe. Plus, everything to date points towards this as damage prior to me receiving it:

1 - Arrives with a busted coil over cylinder #7 (documented and acknowledged by the yard, and replaced by them).. right on top of the valves in question
2 - Unknown pieces of aluminum on top of engine when I unwrapped it (parts of the old valve cover no doubt)
3 - A brand new, un-oil-stained valve cover on that side of engine
4 - Two bent valve stems
5 - a bent pushrod
6 - oil soaked valve (due to being wedged in the head and letting oil pass into the cylinder)
7 - A marked piston, showing different carbon and staining compared to the other 3 cylinders on that bank.

Not sure how they could argue it is something I did, all of this has been documented here (and on 2 other forums as well) as it has unfolded, so there is tons of proof out there of how the motor arrived damaged and visual proof of the valve cover in question being clean as a whistle from day one, as well as everything I have found yesterday and today.

If they deny, I go to ebay and paypal and spread the world what a **** recycler they are, and fix it on my own if I have to. Not too worried, the warranty statement reads:

Engines and transmissions are covered by a 90 days parts warranty unless otherwise stated. You must contact us prior to having any warranty issues corrected.

Not correcting anything yet, just documenting and getting an estimate tomorrow morning. If they wanted all the parts (or even the whole damn motor) back showing the damage, that is possible.

Today's Swap Noob Advice: No matter how insignificant, anything that makes you say "that's odd" means something and you need to investigate it fully. Pieces of metal on top of the engine? Suspicious. A brand new part? Suspicious. A damaged part on top of a brand new part? Very suspicious. Make sure to fully and completely inspect your pullout when you receive it. Take photos, LOTS of them. It will only help you later.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Jimbo, I don't think that at all. The cylinders still show hone marks. Everything is clean inside like I would expect of a 13k motor (and not dirty enough to be a 50k+ motor). the block isn't that oxidized, and honestly it's 5 model years old, mileage won't reduce 5 years of environmental effects on the outisde of the block. I don't think it's anything other than advertised... I think someone in the yard 'fixed' the valve cover, but that's as far as it goes in my mind right now.

If someone wants to help me out, the VIN is 6G2VX12U26L827813. A carfax would tell the tale I think. PM me if you can run a report for me. Thanks!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Agreed.

Since I pick all mine up locally I am able to scour the engines with the proverbial fine toothed comb before money changes hands or anything gets loaded. Granted I know what I'm looking at / for because I have worked on cars a long time so that helps a lot. In my experience some of the guys who work the recycling business aren't the most gentle people with handling things and are are only there to collect a paycheck. I'm sometimes amazed how every engine of a certain type has the same exact part(s) broken or wires cut when a plug was merely inches away. They can't have all been damaged in the wreck, someone is being careless or lazy.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

lol, in retrospect, this all looks so underhanded.

I cant imagine any company thats planning on staying in business not jumping on this and doing the right thing.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

I can't imagine anyone possibly thinking that I wouldn't notice the bent valve when it started up and didn't run right, I think some yard-rat swapped the valve cover and didn't notice the damage. With the rocker on it was only about 90% obvious.

I have faith they will step up to the plate and make good.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Since I'm stuck on the rear and engine temporarily, moving on to other stuff...

Build Update:

LS2 Motor - Boxed up the driver's head, all rockers and pushrods to take to my engine builder tomorrow for repair estimate.

Steering Rack - Second coat of black done, once that has cured a couple of days I'll spray the gearbox with silver and clear.



Rear Subframe Brace - Second (and final) coat of black is on, looks good!



Miata Wiring - Laid out the Miata engine and dash harness and tagged most of the connectors, identifying "keep" vs. "cut".

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Heater Core - Looks good for a heater core inlet/outlet relocate to the passenger side. Plenty of room between it and the firewall, same at the AC and the blower. Need to figure out where to come out, I am almost thinking outboard of the AC connections. Inboard and you are into the engine. Will be tricky since the washer fluid bottle is there (tho my car hasn't had windshield washers in 8 years, so maybe I ought to ditch that??)

A little leaky (I had a smell towards the end of '09):


Underwater? This Car? Nahh.....


Plenty of room between the core and the firewall:



May route out in that open spot between AC and blower:


But that puts it into the washer fluid bottle (I would like a working washer system if possible).


Plus I need to keep in mind where the LS2 PCM is going to mount, which is likely in that area behind the AC. More playing around is required, but I am confident I can find a location that works and gets the heater hoses to the passenger side of the engine.

Calling it for tonight..

Verz

iTrader: (21)

ive been peaking in here just to see progress and actually learned something to look out for. Sucks about the motor and hope they do the right thing.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Research Update:

Fuel Lines - Since I went with the Professional Product fuel rail, my plan to use stock GM nylon tubing and fittings are out. Sooo, I want a true dual feed setup, here's my thoughts (ENTER - MS Paint!):



Thoughts?

(and yes, I know I mistyped Edelbrock but I ain't fixing it!)

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

Parts Ordered
Fuel System [Ordered up the fuel system fittings based on that sketch above. If not perfect, will be very close to get me going on the plumbing for that when the time comes.]
Header bolts - Stage 8 locking
Exhuast manifold gaskets
ARP cam gear bolts (lame, I know)
Miata heater core firewall grommets
Miata AC core firewall grommet [only one available, going to have to modify one of the heater core ones to fit the other]
Wiring grommets [2 inch as posted earlier] for the Miata and LS2 harnesses

Parts Arrived - Frame braces (for the engine bay where it is cut) and the brake proportioning valve arrived. Only waiting on FM Stage 2 fan kit, tranny inspection cover, and custom coil covers.. everything else from the initial order has arrived!

jetttstream

iTrader: (7)

For a returnless system you mine as well put a crossover on the front too.

This technically is not different than if you fed from one side and created a big "U". You'll never suck enough fuel thru the 33#s that would drain the rail. Trust me I'm at that point right now. I feed front rail, crossover at rear and end. At end I have fuel pressure gauge as well. Never have a fuel pressure issue with my cam/header/intake setup. Currently updated from 33# to 60# ls2 injectors and still have no issues. I will eventually convert to a return system when I go back to boost, but just pointed out it's not really a dual feed unless you push the fuel thru the rails and return it back to the tank

As far as using GM nylon lines and such I will be using the stock nylon lines as a return setup.

Here are fittings that make that easily possible.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

-Mike

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, I am doing the "pseudo-dual" feed for visual, I don't want that crossover in the front. That's the only reason, no illusions of a performance gain, believe me.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Well, the official resolution from the yard is this. They are going to purchase the following parts, and ship them to me:

(1) intake valve
(1) exhaust valve
(2) pushrods
(2) lifters
(2) springs
(1) set of head bolts (5 small, 10 large)
(1) head gasket
(1) set of intake valve seals
(1) set of exhaust valve seals
(1) bare 243 casting head

Valve guides are not available from GM, so a bare 243 casting comes with valve guides and seats. My quote to them for the stock parts from Berger locally was $1350, he quoted their price at $640ish so they are providing. Also, they are going to refund the quoted labor costs of $150 to have the old head stripped and the new head built. Soooo.. by the end of this week, I should have all the parts and my refund, but "check's in the mail".

Interestingly, I stumbled across 12564824 which is a BUILT LS6 head, with sodium filled exhaust valves.. and it's cheaper??? I need to check with the yard and see if they actually ordered the bare head, if not..

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

well thatd certainly be a silver lining; lighter valvetrain is a plus when it isnt lightened by PTV hahah

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Sadly, it would only be a single head.. and I am pretty sure they already bought the bare head so a pipe dream.

Honestly, I just want the motor back together so I can put the bloody cam in it!

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

oh cool so the springs are gonna be the ones you use with the cam?

impressive paintwork btw

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

The replacement springs from the yard? Nope.. using the Comp duals I bought from Vengeance.

Thanks - I do much better in Photoshop, believe me. That was pure hack.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

Parts Arrival - JEGS order came in (with free hat, woot!).. clockwise from middle left:



Stage8 Locking header bolts
3/8" NPT plug for fuel rail
ARP cam sproket bolts
(3) firewall grommets
Header gasket

The Firewall grommets (mentioned back here:https://ls1tech.com/forums/14313132-post152.html) are 2" OUTER diameter of the mount ring, actual inner rubber is 1.25" max for the cable bundle. Still usable for my puposes (at least two of the three) but man they are tiny in person. Going to use these to route factory wiring into fender for a body wire tuck. If the bundle is small enough, may use it for the LS2 harness into the interior.