The Yellow Submarine goes Nuclear - LS2/T56 Miata
01-16-2011, 10:31 PM
#201
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Build Update:
Parts Arrival - All the fuel line fittings arrived.. clockwise from upper left:
15' -6AN hose
(2) -6AN 90* elbows
(1) -6AN "T"
(6) -6AN push-on fittings
(1) -6AN to 3/8" GM hardline adapter
Some other misc. parts, clockwise from upper-left:
2 tubes of seam sealer, Duraglass, Mazda AC core grommet (one the small one was available), 3 Mazda Heater Core grommets (bought a third to try and use for the big AC line).
Parts Bought - Bought some more goodies:
Rubber Grommets - Bought a crapload to try and fill all the holes in the engine bay... $67 worth. (yeah, seriously). Bought it at a place called Eastern Beaver (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El.../grommets.html) run by a nice guy named Jim. It's actually a motorcycle accessory site, but he has some nice grommets, plus some interesting options for sealed electrical connectors. The site is a bit clunky, but prices are good. Had a hell of a time finding a good place to buy grommets, and this is by far the best I came across. Sold as single units in various sizes. I whipped up a nice cheat sheet of the accurate sizes via AutoCAD, I'l try and post it up for reference.
Start Button - A Real, live, Honda S2000 version (JDM, yo!)... [yes, I am totally a ricer at heart!]. Great write-up at revlimiter.net on the wiring and parts needed to do it right.
Hella FF75 Driving Lights - Accidentally bought a single lamp (ebay, oops!) and worked out a return/exchange option with Summit Racing (the seller).. so a full kit is on the way as soon as the return is processed.
Parts Researched - Spent a bunch of free time searching for a few things...
Wiper Cowl Cover - Probably going with a Techno Toy Tuning version.
Radiator Cowl Cover - Not sure which to get, probably going to wait until the radiator is installed.
Radiator Overflow Bottle - Canton is out due to fit (and price), Moroso is out due to price, considering the WeaponR or OBX universal round one.
Washer Fluid Bottle - Considering the NOPRO version (which is really the Suzuki Cappuccino part), pricing is a bit steep at over $75 but what can you do... import part. Found a dealer in England at $75 shipped for just the bottle, or NOPRO in Japan at $76 plus shipping for the whole kit. Other options are something universal and ugly, or a stock ABS car one that moves it to the driver's shock tower, or none at all. Still working through this one.
Shift **** - Found a nice one on eBay but waiting for a relisting. 2" black with engraved pattern.
Leather Shift Boot - Also ebay, fairly cheap at under $20 shipped too..
Electrical Connectors - Delphi parts via Mouser, not sure what I need yet so just slimming down the options. GT 280 series parts (same as I used on the RX7 with much success).
Replacement leather elbow pad - to replace my worn one for the center console.
Strut Tower Brace - looking at 3 point version, but not sure. Might be able to reuse the Flyin Miata one I have. Going to wait and see.
Hood Lifts - Confirmed with Mr. Simpson my cowl hood should be fine with the dual lift style, may order one up. My hood prop was on the strut tower bar which may not work now. Plus I like the idea of the lifts being out f the way.
Chin Splitter - I tend to hit things.. many things. Splitter would help mitigate damage. So looking at the Track Dog one made for the RB Type II nose I have. Plus, it might help with actual downforce and air flow for cooling.
Will be back doing work on things this week as schedule allows... replacement engine parts shipped (reportedly) last week, I expect them tomorrow.
Parts Arrival - All the fuel line fittings arrived.. clockwise from upper left:
15' -6AN hose
(2) -6AN 90* elbows
(1) -6AN "T"
(6) -6AN push-on fittings
(1) -6AN to 3/8" GM hardline adapter
Some other misc. parts, clockwise from upper-left:
2 tubes of seam sealer, Duraglass, Mazda AC core grommet (one the small one was available), 3 Mazda Heater Core grommets (bought a third to try and use for the big AC line).
Parts Bought - Bought some more goodies:
Rubber Grommets - Bought a crapload to try and fill all the holes in the engine bay... $67 worth. (yeah, seriously). Bought it at a place called Eastern Beaver (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/El.../grommets.html) run by a nice guy named Jim. It's actually a motorcycle accessory site, but he has some nice grommets, plus some interesting options for sealed electrical connectors. The site is a bit clunky, but prices are good. Had a hell of a time finding a good place to buy grommets, and this is by far the best I came across. Sold as single units in various sizes. I whipped up a nice cheat sheet of the accurate sizes via AutoCAD, I'l try and post it up for reference.
Start Button - A Real, live, Honda S2000 version (JDM, yo!)... [yes, I am totally a ricer at heart!]. Great write-up at revlimiter.net on the wiring and parts needed to do it right.
Hella FF75 Driving Lights - Accidentally bought a single lamp (ebay, oops!) and worked out a return/exchange option with Summit Racing (the seller).. so a full kit is on the way as soon as the return is processed.
Parts Researched - Spent a bunch of free time searching for a few things...
Wiper Cowl Cover - Probably going with a Techno Toy Tuning version.
Radiator Cowl Cover - Not sure which to get, probably going to wait until the radiator is installed.
Radiator Overflow Bottle - Canton is out due to fit (and price), Moroso is out due to price, considering the WeaponR or OBX universal round one.
Washer Fluid Bottle - Considering the NOPRO version (which is really the Suzuki Cappuccino part), pricing is a bit steep at over $75 but what can you do... import part. Found a dealer in England at $75 shipped for just the bottle, or NOPRO in Japan at $76 plus shipping for the whole kit. Other options are something universal and ugly, or a stock ABS car one that moves it to the driver's shock tower, or none at all. Still working through this one.
Shift **** - Found a nice one on eBay but waiting for a relisting. 2" black with engraved pattern.
Leather Shift Boot - Also ebay, fairly cheap at under $20 shipped too..
Electrical Connectors - Delphi parts via Mouser, not sure what I need yet so just slimming down the options. GT 280 series parts (same as I used on the RX7 with much success).
Replacement leather elbow pad - to replace my worn one for the center console.
Strut Tower Brace - looking at 3 point version, but not sure. Might be able to reuse the Flyin Miata one I have. Going to wait and see.
Hood Lifts - Confirmed with Mr. Simpson my cowl hood should be fine with the dual lift style, may order one up. My hood prop was on the strut tower bar which may not work now. Plus I like the idea of the lifts being out f the way.
Chin Splitter - I tend to hit things.. many things. Splitter would help mitigate damage. So looking at the Track Dog one made for the RB Type II nose I have. Plus, it might help with actual downforce and air flow for cooling.
Will be back doing work on things this week as schedule allows... replacement engine parts shipped (reportedly) last week, I expect them tomorrow.
01-18-2011, 09:30 PM
#204
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Build Update:
Parts Received - Well, lookie here... the yard sent some replacement parts for what was damaged on the pullout, all brand-spanking new GM stuff:
I'll be dropping that stuff off at my machinist to get things straightened around. Still waiting on the paypal refund of the labor for that work, though.
Parts Ordered - Bought some more stuff:
Parts Shipped - The last of the Flyin Miata stuff shipped today, woot! Stage 2 fan kit and the flywheel cover plate, arrival 1/24. Summit shipped my Hella FF75 Driving Light kit, arrival 1/19.
Engine Wiring - Started a thread to discuss a few oddball things on the GTO wiring, located here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...l#post14379570
Trying to identify the few loose ends on the GTO side so I can start planning my interconnects with the Miata.
Parts Received - Well, lookie here... the yard sent some replacement parts for what was damaged on the pullout, all brand-spanking new GM stuff:
- Exhaust valve
- Intake valve
- Pair of pushrods
- Head Gasket
- 243 head with guides and seats
- Head bolts
- Pair of lifters
- Pair of Springs
- Valve Seals
I'll be dropping that stuff off at my machinist to get things straightened around. Still waiting on the paypal refund of the labor for that work, though.
Parts Ordered - Bought some more stuff:
- Techno Toys Wiper Cowl cover, wrinkly black powdercoat
- Black leather shift boot with black stitching
- Speed, Inc. black 2" shift **** with engraved shift pattern
- Track Dog Racing Air Splitter for Racing Beat Type II nose
- ZZP 9mm plug wires, red (yeah, ricer, I admit)
Parts Shipped - The last of the Flyin Miata stuff shipped today, woot! Stage 2 fan kit and the flywheel cover plate, arrival 1/24. Summit shipped my Hella FF75 Driving Light kit, arrival 1/19.
Engine Wiring - Started a thread to discuss a few oddball things on the GTO wiring, located here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...l#post14379570
Trying to identify the few loose ends on the GTO side so I can start planning my interconnects with the Miata.
01-19-2011, 06:15 AM
#206
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Splitter, you got it. It's even on the right color car.
http://www.trackdogracing.com/websit...b_splitter.jpg
01-19-2011, 10:14 PM
#209
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Build Update:
Parts Ordered - Forgot that the car needed a new top, so ordered that up as well.. Robbins Vinyl zippered plastic window. Free shipping sale going on at GoMiata thru the end of January, saves me $50.
Parts Received - Honda S2000 start button arrived, as did the Hella FF75 driving lights.
Looks like the vast majority of parts will be coming in next week, around the 23th-25th. Stuff coming in from Japan, England, California, Georgia, Colorado... fun fun.
Hoping to hit the project hard ths weekend, been slacking off due to a bathroom remodel that I am having done, chasing all the loose ends for that takes time as does researching all the oddball parts of the swap that are still unresolved (coolant bottle, washer bottle, GTO wiring questions, gauge sender locations, hood lift parts... the list seems endless). Hope to get a lot more parts cleaned and painted, as well as the rear end welded up and partially/mostly/totally assembled. Still looking for some valve guides, going to try and repair my old head if possible (if you have a lead on correct valve guides for a 243 head, please PM me!). If I can't find them soon, going to just move everything over to the new head and be done with it. Time is a wastin'.
Parts Ordered - Forgot that the car needed a new top, so ordered that up as well.. Robbins Vinyl zippered plastic window. Free shipping sale going on at GoMiata thru the end of January, saves me $50.
Parts Received - Honda S2000 start button arrived, as did the Hella FF75 driving lights.
Looks like the vast majority of parts will be coming in next week, around the 23th-25th. Stuff coming in from Japan, England, California, Georgia, Colorado... fun fun.
Hoping to hit the project hard ths weekend, been slacking off due to a bathroom remodel that I am having done, chasing all the loose ends for that takes time as does researching all the oddball parts of the swap that are still unresolved (coolant bottle, washer bottle, GTO wiring questions, gauge sender locations, hood lift parts... the list seems endless). Hope to get a lot more parts cleaned and painted, as well as the rear end welded up and partially/mostly/totally assembled. Still looking for some valve guides, going to try and repair my old head if possible (if you have a lead on correct valve guides for a 243 head, please PM me!). If I can't find them soon, going to just move everything over to the new head and be done with it. Time is a wastin'.
01-20-2011, 07:20 PM
#210
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honestly, when its said and done youll be able to rock whatever ****** splitter you want; it could be a cattle guard and youd still whipe some smiles off 
01-22-2011, 10:00 AM
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Build Update:
Parts Received - Parts came in! Clockwise:
Everything looks good, very excited about some of these bits.
Parts Received - Parts came in! Clockwise:
- Replacement black Pleather for the armrest (didn't have real leather at my local store, oh well)
- Hella FF75 Driving Light kit
- Techno Toys Wiper Cowl cover, wrinkly black powdercoat
- Speed, Inc. black 2" shift **** with engraved shift pattern
- Honda S2000 Engine Start Button
- ZZP 9mm plug wires, red
Everything looks good, very excited about some of these bits.
01-22-2011, 10:03 AM
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Rear Subframe - Took a break from sucking fumes from my tub re-glazer guy to suck fumes from a grinder and welder and spray paint.
So, following the directions from Shandelle at V8Roadsters (Thanks, Shandelle!) I welded up the front mount for the Getrag. Blue is Shandelle's instructions, black are my comments.
So, following the directions from Shandelle at V8Roadsters (Thanks, Shandelle!) I welded up the front mount for the Getrag. Blue is Shandelle's instructions, black are my comments.
Here is the way I set up the rear end.
Lightly tighten a C-clamp around the subframe to hold the plates in place.
Use a pry bar to locate the DS flange 1.5-2 degrees up and tighten the clamp. Do this by placing the amgle finder on the flange. The clamp will bend the plates in against the subframe. (NOTE!! The stock Getrag bushing in shorter in length than the Poly upgrade that V8R sells. If you are using the poly, make sure to set up the plates using it! I welded the front plate with the stock bushing and tacked the ends of the rear plate, then put the poly center spacer in place to locate the rear plate and then fully welded it. With the stock bushing the rear plate angles inward towards the front plate. With the poly, they are basically parallel as shown.)
Check the angle one more time and them tack the plates in place. I solid weld the outside and stitch the inner. I have a piece of material cut that I bolt back inside the brackets to keep them properly spaced. That "piece of material" mentioned is basically a spacer to maintain the gap, I used the center sleeve from the poly mount. (poly mount was not installed in the diffy yet, but given the sleeve is separate, you could probably slide it back out for this purpose)
(note - I fully welded them to keep crap from collecting in the gap instead of tacking the insides. I doubt it makes any different but whatever)
- Install the diff on the rear hanger and bolt it into the subframe.
- Level the subframe on a work bench. Uses shims under the four corners of the subframe to raise and level it. There are four flat points [on the top] of the subframe. Place an angle finder those post and zero the subframe. Then check level from side to side. (note spacers under the level. I found 2 pair of washers that were the same height [measured via digital micrometer] which allowed the lever to clear the re-inforced 'spike' hole. I put them front rear and left/right to check all angles.)
- Bolt on the front mounts. You may need to clearance the front plate around the case depending on what year diff you are using. The late model units added material around the bushing boss.
(note - I fully welded them to keep crap from collecting in the gap instead of tacking the insides. I doubt it makes any different but whatever)
01-22-2011, 10:20 AM
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Painted Parts - Painted the Brake Booster, Wiper Motor and bracket, silver part of the steering rack, and the mount brackets for the rack/front sway/rear sway.
01-22-2011, 10:33 PM
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Build Update:
Rear Subframe - Bought some 10" long 3/8" bolts to use as surrogate exhaust hangers. Tagged one on the subframe in the NB location (or thereabouts, anyhow) and left it stubbed so I can bend/trim it to fit once the car is assembled. Will paint it to match at that time.
Painted the subframe till I ran out of paint. Partial first coat:
Rear Knuckles Disassembled - did a bunch of work:
Pressed out the old hubs, which leaves you with this:
Pried out the inner seal, and inner bearing race:
Pried out the outer seal and outer bearing race:
Clean it up with a rag and brake clean and you have this:
Break out some heat (gotta love oxy/act) and beat on the outer ring at the ridge shown here:
After you are done with both hubs, you have this giant pile of parts:
Clockwise from upper let, you have two rows of the bearing, disassembled, from out to in:
Snap ring
Outer Ring
Exterior Seal
Exterior Bearing Race
Interior Bearing Race
Interior Seal
Inner Interior ring
Dust Seal
Wheel hub with outer Interior ring, and the knuckle.
Rear Knuckles Assembled - Pressed in the wheel studs:
(yes, there is a 3rd bearing box in that photo.. I screwed up and thrashed one.. oops!)
Painted Parts - Painted some stuff.. clear coated the steering rack and wiper motor parts. Touched up the brake booster (had some fisheye issues), painted the front knuckle brake shields with "chrome" paint in the hopes that it will help with heat deflection (and it looks cool), and primed the front baby teeth.
I've been researching some other bling stuff tonight, but that's a surprise.
Rear Subframe - Bought some 10" long 3/8" bolts to use as surrogate exhaust hangers. Tagged one on the subframe in the NB location (or thereabouts, anyhow) and left it stubbed so I can bend/trim it to fit once the car is assembled. Will paint it to match at that time.
Painted the subframe till I ran out of paint. Partial first coat:
Rear Knuckles Disassembled - did a bunch of work:
Pressed out the old hubs, which leaves you with this:
Pried out the inner seal, and inner bearing race:
Pried out the outer seal and outer bearing race:
Clean it up with a rag and brake clean and you have this:
Break out some heat (gotta love oxy/act) and beat on the outer ring at the ridge shown here:
After you are done with both hubs, you have this giant pile of parts:
Clockwise from upper let, you have two rows of the bearing, disassembled, from out to in:
Snap ring
Outer Ring
Exterior Seal
Exterior Bearing Race
Interior Bearing Race
Interior Seal
Inner Interior ring
Dust Seal
Wheel hub with outer Interior ring, and the knuckle.
Rear Knuckles Assembled - Pressed in the wheel studs:
(yes, there is a 3rd bearing box in that photo.. I screwed up and thrashed one.. oops!)
Painted Parts - Painted some stuff.. clear coated the steering rack and wiper motor parts. Touched up the brake booster (had some fisheye issues), painted the front knuckle brake shields with "chrome" paint in the hopes that it will help with heat deflection (and it looks cool), and primed the front baby teeth.
I've been researching some other bling stuff tonight, but that's a surprise.
01-23-2011, 05:00 PM
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Build Update:
Rear Subframe & Baby Teeth - Finished first coat of paint on it.
Suspension - Started to swap out springs from 350/275 to 450/333...
...until one of the GC coilover collars had a siezed tension bolt... So, cut it and moved on.
Found some other wear-n-tear issues had to weld up some stuff. Unfortunately one of the front struts has buggered threads, so taking both fronts to get that fixed up tomorrow. Probably going to take all the LS2 parts as well, need to find a machinist that can deal with the valve guides.
Painted Parts - Finished up the steering rack, brake booster and reassembled the wiper motor. All came out nicely.
You can really tell when I have been out in the garage all day.. I think I could use some insulation on the roof!!
Rear Subframe & Baby Teeth - Finished first coat of paint on it.
Suspension - Started to swap out springs from 350/275 to 450/333...
...until one of the GC coilover collars had a siezed tension bolt... So, cut it and moved on.
Found some other wear-n-tear issues had to weld up some stuff. Unfortunately one of the front struts has buggered threads, so taking both fronts to get that fixed up tomorrow. Probably going to take all the LS2 parts as well, need to find a machinist that can deal with the valve guides.
Painted Parts - Finished up the steering rack, brake booster and reassembled the wiper motor. All came out nicely.
You can really tell when I have been out in the garage all day..
I think I could use some insulation on the roof!!
01-23-2011, 07:11 PM
#216
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Parts Bought - Bought more of the $50 to death items... 2 gallons of antifreeze ($7 rebate each, tho!) and a 5 qt. w/filter oil change special.. total $61.45. Still need at least 2 more quarts of oil, though!!
01-24-2011, 09:40 AM
#217
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Parts Received - Final shipment from Flyin Miata. Stage 2 fan kit and flywheel cover plate. Forgot they were shipping to the office.. Happy Monday!
01-24-2011, 12:42 PM
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wow. i shouldnt leave for weeks at a time lol.. looks like its comming together well!, sucks to hear bout the motor tho.. and date youd want to get this beast driving by?
01-24-2011, 12:55 PM
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Date? HA! Was hoping March 1 but more reaslistically May 1 maybe? Not sure. I won't kill myself to hit a date, I want it to be right (plus I have the 355 LT1 RX7 to pacify me temporarily).. so it will be when it will be, I guess. Late Spring is about as specific as I need right now.
01-24-2011, 05:43 PM
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The issue you had with the motor does not surprise me. The GTOs are know for this when they get hit in the front. What happens due to the motor mounts being vertical and the tight clearance between the brake booster and valve cover, when the get hit in the front it knocks the motor in to the steel booster. The steel booster wins breaks the valve cover and bends the valves. I got my GTO cheap due to this very reason. It was not very hard but it dropped the exhaust vale in the motor and chewed stuff up pretty bad. Glad the salvage yard is making good on the deal.