Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Found this here:


The left is the block hole, the right is the pan hole. My block certainly doesn't have a plug in the block, but there is a recess there. Guess it gets drilled out... weeee.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

Parts Purchased - Ordered up some stuff today to try and turn the tide back to the proper order:

RockAuto - Wix 33737 Fuel Filter and oil pan gasket
PartsExpress - various sizes of Techflex from 1/8" to 1"
AutoPartsDealer - Professional Products 10612 Fuel Rail
Speedway Motors - remote oil filter mount, 14' of -8 silicone oil line, mounting tab for the clutch slave bleeder line
Michigan Fluid Power - remote oil filter fittings for oil pan and mount (45* -8 thread to -8 flare, 45* -8 flare to 8 pushon hose barb, 1/2" NPT thread to 1/2" hose barb)
Fleabay - Lokar ED-5008 oil dipstick

A lot of that stuff falls into the dreaded "$50 to death" category that you never seem to account for or consider. Fuel filter was $33, oil pan gasket was $33, Techflex was almost $100, remote oil filter mount is $25, hose is $42, mounting tab was $10, oil filter fittings was $47, dipstick was $50. All told spent over $300 today on crap that never seems to register on the radar when you are putting together the initial cost guesstimate.

So, take note, newbies and "how much does a swap cost" folks: This is the stuff that kills your initial budget. You have to have a decent sized contingency in your plan or you will get really annoyed at all this stuff! I still see a bunch of it coming like fuel line fittings, misc. electrical crap (wires, tape, supplies), all the fluids, etc. so there is more still to go.

adamatforge

Loving the post WallyMan. Sorry I dont have time for your headers but I'll have to swing by and drool a bit soon. let me know if you need any brackets etc..

Keep it up

Adam

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Adam! You're welcome anytime. No worries on the headers, the car wil be stupid fast regardless, me thinks.

jetttstream

iTrader: (7)

Nice Wally.

Here is what you're up against:

Marky522

iTrader: (8)

Hey jettstream, where did u get the AN steam tube adapters? Does they clear the factory intake? I may do that, but instead of using the box you did, Y the front two together and run it back under the intake and T those two in and run my vent straight out the back...

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

that looks like a kurt urban setup, but with different lines.. I found a couple places that had them aside from there, but my computer doesnt seem to remember..

that XT looks pretty sweet, trying to decide if i wanna use one or go GM on mine...

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Hey Burg!

Blah blah blah.. you wouldn't need that if the thing wasn't such a fat pig!

I gave that setup no more than 4 months tops, then something else will be in it's place. You change mods like I change socks! (looks good tho!)

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update

Parts Purchase - replacement coil (used) coming. Finally got the refund for the busted/missing parts on the pullout.. $393 and the BCM. Returned the stock parts and found a used coil (single) cheap, so that is coming. Sooooo glad to be done with the junkyard, that was getting on my nerves. Over 2 months from date of purchase to get it resolved. Ugh. But that is done, so happy day!

Parts Arrival - Partsexpress is quick, dang! Got the Techflex next day. Bought 25' packs, various lengths. It is the FlexoPET stuff (http://www.techflex.com/prod_PET.asp), not the super high heat that Marky522 used. Cost is significantly lower, and FlexoPET is rated for 257* continuous, 482* melt and given I shouldn't have contact with anything that hot, I think it will be fine. If not, I guess it becomes heat shrink.

1 x 1/8"
2 x 1/4"
2 x 3/8"
1 x 1/2"
1 x 3/4"
1 x 1"

Techflex:



Took some shots of the remote oil filter parts, too. Tucks up nicely above bottom of pan:

dereklburt

iTrader: (3)

Nice build Wallyman. I was considering doing the same thing for a while as I have a turbo Lotus Elise but wanted the power and reliability of the LS. However, after some more thought and measurements, I realized that I might be able to squeeze one in my Lotus. Now the plan is to put a warmed over LS3 or LS7 in the Lotus (~500whp). That's the plan anyway. I guess I will see if I can make it fit but it looks like it is going to work. I'm not too far from you, just over in Muskegon. You should check out the Furrin Group and take the yellow submarine out for some autocross and give me some competition. It would really be a blast at Grattan.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, it's a good time (so far, heh!). You help make me feel sane. 400hp in the Miata should be stupid, I can't imagine lighter and more hp, that's a whole new level of nuts!

I've yet to run with Furrin, if they enforce the 2" helmet rule, I'm out.. too tall. I've looked at running with them in the past, and I think that was the issue. Let me know if you start in on the Lotus, would love to see that as it progresses!

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update

Firewall/tunnel clearancing - Tool of the day: Harbor Freight 95343 Rotary Spot Weld Cutter.

Spot welds drilled out:


Braces removed:



Pulling those any other way would be insanity.. $5 well spent, just be sure to have it running full speed as you gently make contact with the metal. I used cutting oil too to prolong the life of the bit.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Wallyman that recess you are looking at on the side of your block is actually a tiny freeze plug, you can just pop it out of there from the oil pan side with a small drift, remember from the oil pan side, so this is something you want to do before you install your new oil pan and gasket, it is a little confusing on your picture but the recess is located on the passenger side of the engine, I think that is what you are looking at in your picture, all LS blocks have that provision for a dipstick, you can use a dipstick from a F-Body and it will slip right in there.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Cool, thanks! I planned to roll it upside down on the engine stand to do whatever I eneded up needing to do. I bought the Lokar dipstick to use (same style as the LT1 in the RX7 I did).

I can't see it very well with the starter on, I hope to get to the motor this weekend once I get done hacking the firewall/tunnel. If all goes well, I'll have the firewally cut, and the engine/tranny sperated with the engine on the stand and all the GTO front dress removed. before Monday. Shouldn't be too hard.

LSX-PWR

This car is going to be beast to say the least!!!

jetttstream

iTrader: (7)

Would it clear a factory intake (I have a TBSS) no way..at least underneath. They would clear if I ran then around the (stock) intake.

I got the adapters with o-ring and bolt from Kurt Urban. I built my own lines with Pro Classic hose to match everything else I've been using. I love the setup.

Go for it I am glad I did. I love it and I can honestly tell a difference above 3000 RPM let alone 5k+

You are correct kind sir. I will say that I will in fact have this intake manifold for a little bit. But you never know b/c I do change setups like the wind.

The Sub looks great keep up the good work.

-Mike

RedVertTA

iTrader: (9)

I think I missed something, why are you removing the braces and won't removing them compromise the rigidity of the car?

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Progess:

Firewall Clearancing - First cuts of the engine bay humps done with combo of air cut-off, sawzall, and 4.5" electric grinder.

Driver:


Passenger:

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Cut the floor apart from the firewall, beat it into the cabin just to see how flexible it is. Passenger side is easy, driver will take some persuation:

Driver:


Driver inside:


Passenger:


In the engine bay, I took out the left over 'edges' from the pieces that were cut (note horizontal spot welds remaining along top of primer colored spots). FM leaves these, but I will seam weld the piece under it to clean that up a little. Hell, you probably can't even see those spots once the engine is in! I'll still know, so that's what matters, I guess.

Both sides (with more cleaned up cuts on the corners also).


Realized after I was cutting that I don't have the re-enforcement plates from FM. Missing those, the flywheel cover plate, and one other thing I can't remember at the moment. Was hoping to get the engine bay sorted out this weekend but without the plates I don't know how much to trim so I can't get it sized. So, turned my attention to the LS2 and pulled all the GTO accessories and front dress off, so that is done.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

LS2 disassembly - All front mount accessories, water pump, crank pulley, exhuast manifolds, tranny, clutch disc and pressure plate removed. Engine on a stand for oil pan removal and wiring work.




The final pile of Miata removed parts that go back in the car (95% of it anyhow):


Moved it all up into the attic storage, tired of tripping over it.

Calling it for the night , feeling good about the progress! Not sure what tomorrow will bring, maybe cleaning of suspension parts and building the front cradle? Would like to continue work on the tranny tunnel and I need a built cradle/motor/tranny to get it in there for sizing. We shall see...