Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've been waiting. I woulda bought Miller had it been cheaper.. $75 off is attractive, though, so the Lincoln gets the win.

Plasma is wish list, believe me. And I've got a big air compressor so no worries there. Someday.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

Parts Arrived - More fuel rail parts.. pair of 3/8NPT to -6AN adapters and a pair of -6AN 45* push on ends.

Also, the custom oil pressure adapter. Goes in place of the stock sending unit, which gets relocted to the end of a -3AN line so you can stick it on the firewall or wherever. Photos forthcoming.

Tool Fun - Doesn't really count as car, but related anyhow.. Finished the mods to the welding cart, photos coming on that too.

Radiator Mounts - finished up the lower mounts, and welded tabs on for the upper mounts. Will drill them tomorrow.

AC Condenser Mounts - working on the mounts for the ac condenser, trying to figure out spacing relative to the radiator.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

[moved images over to Picasa, we'll see how this works...]

Build Update:

Parts - Top down: Fuel rail covers with bolts/stand offs, NPT fuel rail fittings, factory radiator mount plates (with rad hooks and AC condenser plate removed) and the oil pressure adapter stuff.



New Welder

Some assembly required!


POOF! Assembled and ready to play!


Head Plate Lift Hooks -Templates look pretty good, not sure about the angle tho (that's straight up as shown). Stock lift hook in front angles outwards.



Radiator Mounts - Done. Cut the stock hooks off the bottom and reused them, new plate on the top. Moved as far forward as possible without cutting radiator top support. Top of radiator is flush with radiator support and about 1/8" away.




Bottom of hook is 9 1/4" from top of frame rail lip, if anyone is wondering.

NOOB Hint #1 - Make sure you take everything in the area into consideration on the radiator mounts: sway mounts. AC condenser mounts, top clearance, CAI (if you plan to route it low like I do). One thing I failed to realize is that the bottom hooks are offset towards the radiator, and for a reason. The mount rails stick out and rub if you just weld the hooks to a flat plate. So, in my case, I ground the side mounts down to clearance them a little, and may have to cut part of the lower plate out as well. Make sure you tack pieces in, then install and remove the radiator a few times to make sure it's clear.

AC Condenser - Also done. Cut the stock lower mounts loose and reused them. Beat the front bumper support in where the dryer goes for some extra clearance.




NOOB Hint #2 - Same deal for the AC, but more so. The top was a stud from the factory, and if you mount like I did (all the way forward against the hood latch), you can't possibly slide it over a stud. I had to rework everything twice (after I had it all welded up) because I had it tucked inside the radiator support which put it so close to the radiator that the top mount screws for the AC hit the end tanks of the rad. So, today's advice: Double check everything.. twice... then check again. Install and remove all parts a couple of times with the proposed mounts. And (if you did like me and you stripped the car to the bone) make sure you take into consideration the parts you removed, like the hood latch.

Radiator Fans & Shroud - Assembled the shroud with the SPAL fans, looks good. Once I tried to attach to the radiator, it all went to hell. Missing bolts, bolts I have are wrong length, overflow fitting stripped out, holes not lining up, can't figure out how the hoses are supposed to run.. just not going well. I managed to at least get it together enough to test fit. Looks good. All the other issues are minor and will get resolved later.



True Cold Air Intake - It's going to be tight.




I want the filter in front of the driver front wheel for cold air pickup. I think I can make it work, but not 100% sure. Going to have to trim the lip on the frame rail to give me a little more room to work.

Coolant Hose Routing - Test fit the upper, lower and heater hoses.

Upper needs a cut/splice and should be fine, and heater hoses will be fine (and simple).



Potential heater core fittings location, not sure if this is the one or not but it's an option.



Lower almost works if the neck pointed down a little more? Might be able to make it fit. Glad I'm not trying to route a sway in front of the pulleys!



AC Lines - Took some measurements so I can figure out what adapter block I need.




Remote Oil Filter - So here is my big plan.. I am entertaining the idea of putting the remote oil filter on the front of the driver's head. This helps balance the engine visually, puts it in an accessible location, and solves the issue of having no place for it.



Going to be tight around the CAI but I think it will work out.

Marky522

iTrader: (8)

Hey Wallyman, looking Great!!! One suggestion, if you run your remote oil filter there it looks like it's going to be a pain to change that filter once the lines are on it, I would flip it upside down so the bottom of the filter is sticking up, just make sure your filter has an antidrainback valve!

Mark

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya. I had to save a while to get mine, now I use it all the time! Rome wasn't built in a day so you'll be fine. On the flip side, your engine lift points would be really easy with a plasma! Hint, hint.

You and Keith T make me feel like I had lots of room in my Thunderbird. I'm used to working on full frame cars, not uni-bodies where taking the front sheet metal off simply wastes your time and doesn't give you more access.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

It will be easy.. since I am going to have a buddy with a CNC Plasma cut them for me. WAY cheaper than buying a plasma rig for myself.

Build Update:

Fan Shroud - Photo:



Cold Air Intake - Messed around with it some more. Ignore the dented and scratched pipes, mock up pieces will be replaced with nice stuff.





The approximate layout of the intake, minus filter:



Top-down clearance, notice the gray area of the body; heated it and bent it up to add clearance, looks almost factory, I must say.



Remote Oil Filter - I don't think the oil filter will work on the head plate... so went with the ever-popular 2x4 mounting method. Can't put it where I want, so think I am going to rig up a small mount plate and stick it here:



I think that will work out fine, and look nice. Hose routing is simple, will 90 out of it straight down and route inside the cradle away from the header, right to the fittings on the side of the pan. If I want to add the oil cooler, I may flip it to the other side, we shall see. Still working that part out.

Heat Core Inlet/Outlet Relocation - Drilled the firewall, came out nicely I think:



Closer:


Inside view:


At the heater core:


Picked up a couple of heater hoses at Autozone.. perfect. One 5/8", the other 3/4". Both about 24"+ long with a simple 90 at one end. The firewall end is not done yet, hope to finish it up tomorrow night and pressure test it. Will get some measurements of the final pieces, etc. Need to figure out a good way to support the lines inside the cabin, not sure on that yet.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Did I ever tell you we can't be friends any more? J/K Sweet, that would be cheaper indeed!
I used to have a buddy with a small machine shop - then he and his girl had issues, they split and he closed the business.

Your heat setup is creative, I never thought of that. I can't see a reason it wouldn't work if you can sweat pipe reasonably well and put in a few flex couplers or rubber hoses so it doesn't vibrate or work harden and break.

elsdragon314

iTrader: (4)

I agree, the heater hose lines look really nice, definitely going to declutter the engine bay. I may have to borrow that idea when I get started on my build.

For supporting the lines, maybe a back plate with the tube shape 'dented' in it, with space for a center bolt, and a similar front plate to capture the tubes would hopefully still allow the accessability you need to get at them easily, and would secure them. A slit rubber sleeve to help with vibration between the two curve plates that pinch the pipes would probably be appropriate too.

But seeing your other work, you probably have an elegant solution in mind. I do enjoy this build thread!

themachasy

iTrader: (5)

I really like the attention to detail! Keep it up!

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Got a reprieve from work, so was able to put a few hours in.

Build Update:

Heater Core Inlet/Outlet Relocation - Finished! Welded a stud neat the firewall for a support.



Also, heated the AC box and pushed in the corner a little for some clearance.





Trimmed the ends up.



Used the Autozone hoses, trimmed to fit and good to go! Still need to rig up a strap at the passenger strut tower but otherwise in good shape.





Pressure checked the lines once but then adjusted so need to redo that.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Build Update:

Parts Arrival - BMW E36 Swaybars arrived.. a 24mm from a '97 328i and a 25.5mm from a '99 323i. Didn't measure them up, but they look quite promising.

Some unconfirmed info from various sources for anyone considering this route... do your own homework, because there is some conflicting info out there!:

All US E36 Models
318i, 318is, 318ic (1992–1995) M42B18
318ti (1994–1996) M42B18 [Wrong mounting point (attached to strut)]
318i, 318ti (1996–1998) M44B19
320i (1994) M52B20
323i, 323is, 323ic (1996–1998) M52B25
325i, 325is, 325ic (1992) M50B25
325i, 325is, 325ic (1993–1995) M50TUB25
328i, 328is, 328ic (1996–1998) M52B28
M3 (1995-1999 coupe, 1997-1998 sedan, 1998-1999 convertible) S50B30US (1995) and S52B32 (1996–1999) [Wrong mounting point (attached to strut)]

22.5mm - spring rate ~375 lb/inch
BMW 320i 92 Front; 22.5mm
BMW 325i 92 Front; Cpe and Sdn, 22.5mm

23mm- spring rate ~409 lb/inch
BMW 318i 93 Front; (Cpe & Sdn), 23mm
BMW 318i 94-95 Front; 23mm

24mm- spring rate ~486 lb/inch
BMW 320i 93-95 Front
BMW 323i 98 Front; 24mm
BMW 323i 99 Front; Cpe and Conv, 24mm
BMW 325i 93 Front; Cpe and Sdn (24mm)
BMW 325i 94-95 Front
BMW 328i 96-98 Front; 24mm
BMW 328i 99 Front; Cpe and Conv, 24mm

25.5mm- spring rate ~619 lb/inch
BMW 318i 96-98 Front; 25.5mm (Conv)
BMW 323i 98 Front; 25.5mm
BMW 323i 99 Front; Cpe and Conv, 25.5mm
BMW 328i 96-98 Front; 25.5mm
BMW 328i 99 Front; Cpe and Conv, 25.5mm

All the spring rates are calculated based on the distance between the turns on the arms, so that may be subjective but all were using the same location so you can get an 'order of magnitude' change difference between bars at least.

Mazda Miata
Stock 1.6 - spring rate ~144 lb/inch
FM V8 solid (1")- spring rate ~540 lb/inch
FM non-V8 solid (1") - spring rate ~497 lb/inch

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Apparently I recieved a pair of 24mm bars... grrrr... contacting the seller to get resolved. Fun fun.

Mockup continues, regardless.

themachasy

iTrader: (5)

Sweet build, great fab work. Can't wait to see it come along!

bimerok

iTrader: (1)

Great project! Great work! Will be following to the end for sure.

Couple pages back, I read that you are planning on sending your headers to JetHot. I would recommend to stay away from them.

I completed BMW e36 LS1 swap and had them coat 2 sets of headers (mine and my cousin's that we are staring soon). After arrival, I had to send both sets back as the quality of job was aweful. It had bluriness, tight spots were not covered at all, big chunks of dirt cured right on mounting surfaces of flanges and v-bands. So they had me return them to another facility. The coating looked better, but still not great. A month or so into use I start seeing rust near collector area. So I ended up painting it with hi temp paint. Now the primaries start showing some rust after few months of use. Very, very disapointed.

I would strongly recommend trying to find somebody else.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for taking the time to note the sway bar references.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

You bet.. not sure how reliable they are but better than nothing.


Build Update:

Parts Bought - Just picked up some 3"w x 4"h x 4"l x 1/8" thick steel tube for the sway mounts (the FM heavy duty ones are going up for sale).. also got some 1/4" aluminum to shim the mount if I need to. Following Shawn's lead on the sway setup he is doing, need to source the Energy Suspension greasable mounts yet then I can finish that up.

Big thanks to Shawn for chatting last night and walking me through his setup, very helpful. Thanks Dude!!!

boriksh

Great progress, looking forward to see it running.

I do not seem to find a part number of the t56 fbody adapter you used for gto to fbody shifter swap, and also where did you buy it?

thanks in advance.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

Me too! Not sure May is realistic anymore, but still pushing forward... it'll run sooner or later.

Never found a real part number, but I found it HERE.

"T56 Offset Lever Camaro Firebird Viper Mustang"

$35.65 plus shipping

boriksh

Thanks a lot, just ordered mine!.
Good luck with the build!
Will be watching your thread and hopefully get few ideas from your build as we are in process of swapping e36 ls2 w dbw setup.

Wallyman

iTrader: (1)

No problem, glad to help.

Thanks, you too! I'd love a E36 convertible LSx car, but stuck on my little "girly" car right now.

DBW will be interesting, still not sure about cruise control... we'll get there.