Carbed ls3 94 cobra with t56
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Carbed ls3 94 cobra with t56
Im going to start a build thread even though i've been done with the entire swap for over a year now i figured people could read through and possible find info on things that i have done and maybe help some of my fellow ls junkies
thisis my thread from another forum but wanted to start from there
haha but here is my starting questions has anyone used a tilton master cylinder setup for their hydraulics clutch setups? I got my turbo coupe pedals in and have been modifying the car to use this master, due to several recomendations by ls1 shops that say there factory master cylinders have lots of problems with inadequite fluid flow resulting in high rpm shifting problems. Anyway i got this trick little master cylinder and mounting block from tick performance and was wondering if im the only one going this route. Sorry for all caps i just realized and dont feel like retyping.
thisis my thread from another forum but wanted to start from there
haha but here is my starting questions has anyone used a tilton master cylinder setup for their hydraulics clutch setups? I got my turbo coupe pedals in and have been modifying the car to use this master, due to several recomendations by ls1 shops that say there factory master cylinders have lots of problems with inadequite fluid flow resulting in high rpm shifting problems. Anyway i got this trick little master cylinder and mounting block from tick performance and was wondering if im the only one going this route. Sorry for all caps i just realized and dont feel like retyping.
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trimmed the transmission tunnel for the 6spd. gears are installed on the detroit truetrac and back in the rear. will finish putting the axles in the car and drop the motor in for the final time tonight. going to start running the fuel lines and button up the fuel system this weekend. Pro Systems 780 gets here tonight!!
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mounted fuel pump and sumped tank last night and ran all my braided lines to the carb but found i was one fitting short to getting it all done GRRR!! Now just have to secure all the fuel line and wire fuel pump. engine is in, dynatech headers cleared steering shaft just fine. intake in on and also installed carb last night! really starting to come together. pulled factory gauge cluster out and started to run wiring for autometer cluster but of course my standard sending unit would screw into the metric adapter for the cooling system temp sensor so im waiting on a stubby temp sensor then i can finish all the gauges. truck accesorie brackets cleared my cobra r hood, big plus there! used a 1.25 drop base for the carb with a filter lid and a 3" tall filter everthing clears great. got my alternator back from the shop, had it wired to be a self exicter single wire setup so no worrys there for hook up. waiting on my new tranny cross member from aje the first one they sent didnt work out to well but they tell me they have a new design for them and it is adjustable!! hope it works.
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update: still havent loaded pics but im bored at work so i'll list everything that is done. Got fed up waiting on AJE to make me a trans crossmember that would work so i did the next best thing, grabbed my stock cross member and moved it right behind where it use to be and fab'd up new mounting tabs on the body. i then put a spacer where the old mounting position was and ran an 8" bolt through both! that bad boy isnt going anywhere. i had installed upper and lower control arms in the car with my previous engine which only have 4000miles and somehow the bushings were completly blown out. Luckily summit had on record they came with rubber instead of polyurethane and i got a new set sent to me! those are now installed. had my buddys help push the car in a week or so ago and the tail pipe decided to hang up on the ledge causing my driverside tailpipe to kink over my axle!!!! bad day...looks like im running turn downs. got the clutch pedal done and installed in the car. throttle cable seems to be out of adjustment and still to long so i have to figure that out yet. Got my radiator back from getting welded looks amazing!! just to fill everyone in here is what i did. i had a brand spanking new mishimoto radiator sent to me cause the old one started leaking. most people use the camaro radiator but i had this one laying there and really couldnt justify spending more money. so i cut off the small inlet on my old radiator and both off the new radiator drilled a small inlet and outlet hole on opposite ends of the current end tank and then had a friend weld them back up. now i just need to polish it up good and i'll have a mustang radiator that can use factory gm radiator hoses! gauge cluster is wired up just need to run my sensor wires to each gauge. coil packs are painted and back together. msd is mounted and wiring is ready to be ran for that. driveshaft is made and somehow ended up being longer?!? hope someone else ran into that problem.
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IT'S ALIVE.
Had the first test fire last night. Cranked the engine over for a little to prime the oil. hit the switch for ignition and fired right up. Set my idle and let me tell you that cam is a thumper for sure!!!!
blead the clutch last night!!! moved under its own power for the first time...but holy #### i have a hard clutch pedal. ran all coolant lines and rad fan. powersteering is done. just need to finish a little wiring tonight and it might drive out of the shop and around the block!
wanted to go into a little more detail on the power steering that way anyone else doing it that reads this will feel a little better. i went on to advance autos web site and started looking around under power steering for an 04 chevy 1500 truck and found they sell the fitting with a 3 inch piece of 3/8 hardline coming off of it. so i actually was able to buy (2) 3/8 brake line fittings and (1) union and re-ran my factory line cut and double flared the gm line and the end of my ford line and unioned them. works great have a nice flexible pressure line and looks original!
i have started to take pictures of everythingn and will be posting them up ASAP i just am not able to get on here at work anymore so that means i have to take time away from the car to post them.
also i decided that my 2.5" flowmaster cat-back just wasnt going to suite my needs anymore so i went to the local exhaust shop and bought (2) 5' pieces of 3" pipe, (2) 3" 45deg mandrel bends, (2) 3" 90deg mandrel bends, 2 3" single chamber flowmasters, and random flanges. i had a 3" H pipe laying around so i welded it all up saturday at my first attempt at making an exhaust and i must say it came out pretty awesome and with the tiny little dumps i put on...it shakes the whole shop now!!!
the master cylinder is from tick performance its a tilton, after reading online for a little i found out they use a larger bore than factory which increases pedal pressure by 15% but it also makes for a much shorter clutch disengagement, my pedal travel is pretty short to get full release.
Had the first test fire last night. Cranked the engine over for a little to prime the oil. hit the switch for ignition and fired right up. Set my idle and let me tell you that cam is a thumper for sure!!!!
blead the clutch last night!!! moved under its own power for the first time...but holy #### i have a hard clutch pedal. ran all coolant lines and rad fan. powersteering is done. just need to finish a little wiring tonight and it might drive out of the shop and around the block!
wanted to go into a little more detail on the power steering that way anyone else doing it that reads this will feel a little better. i went on to advance autos web site and started looking around under power steering for an 04 chevy 1500 truck and found they sell the fitting with a 3 inch piece of 3/8 hardline coming off of it. so i actually was able to buy (2) 3/8 brake line fittings and (1) union and re-ran my factory line cut and double flared the gm line and the end of my ford line and unioned them. works great have a nice flexible pressure line and looks original!
i have started to take pictures of everythingn and will be posting them up ASAP i just am not able to get on here at work anymore so that means i have to take time away from the car to post them.
also i decided that my 2.5" flowmaster cat-back just wasnt going to suite my needs anymore so i went to the local exhaust shop and bought (2) 5' pieces of 3" pipe, (2) 3" 45deg mandrel bends, (2) 3" 90deg mandrel bends, 2 3" single chamber flowmasters, and random flanges. i had a 3" H pipe laying around so i welded it all up saturday at my first attempt at making an exhaust and i must say it came out pretty awesome and with the tiny little dumps i put on...it shakes the whole shop now!!!
the master cylinder is from tick performance its a tilton, after reading online for a little i found out they use a larger bore than factory which increases pedal pressure by 15% but it also makes for a much shorter clutch disengagement, my pedal travel is pretty short to get full release.
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To update the build thread for progress that has been made to the car.
I ran the car one last time before putting it away for the winter. She went 11.50@125 still running my 17" wheels. As planned i wanted to concentrate on getting a nice suspension, cage, and wheels for the track this winter and am almost done with all of it! I went with Wolfe Racecraft out of new jersey for the roll cage, they make a beautiful cage all notched and fit when you pick it up. I had them make me some low slung door bars to make getting in and out a little easier. Also went with Wolfe for my rear suspension setup. I got upper and lower adjustable control arms from them that are top notch and while i was done there picking everything up I stumbled across their anti-roll bar and just had to have that as well. Also got battle boxes to take care of the torque boxes and spherical bushings for the upper control arms mounting on the rear. The final piece for this winters project was getting a set of wheels for the car to take it to the track and see what it will really do! I got a set of weld racing prostar xp's from another corral member. They are 15x5.5 fronts and 15x9 rears with 26x11.50 et streets and can't wait to see what they are going to do for me!
I ran the car one last time before putting it away for the winter. She went 11.50@125 still running my 17" wheels. As planned i wanted to concentrate on getting a nice suspension, cage, and wheels for the track this winter and am almost done with all of it! I went with Wolfe Racecraft out of new jersey for the roll cage, they make a beautiful cage all notched and fit when you pick it up. I had them make me some low slung door bars to make getting in and out a little easier. Also went with Wolfe for my rear suspension setup. I got upper and lower adjustable control arms from them that are top notch and while i was done there picking everything up I stumbled across their anti-roll bar and just had to have that as well. Also got battle boxes to take care of the torque boxes and spherical bushings for the upper control arms mounting on the rear. The final piece for this winters project was getting a set of wheels for the car to take it to the track and see what it will really do! I got a set of weld racing prostar xp's from another corral member. They are 15x5.5 fronts and 15x9 rears with 26x11.50 et streets and can't wait to see what they are going to do for me!
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I've done a bunch of k members and headers on mustangs and for my LS swap i was worried that was what would bite me in the *** but dynatech long tubes were all fabbed up on a 94 model year mustang using an AJE K member so you know they will both fit up perfect. So my tip would be use those two for a good start. Make your own trans mount because i had two companys tell me they could and neither fit. Turbo coupe pedals make and easy start for converting to hydraulic clutch but now i see mcloud came out with that conversion kit to make our cars hydraulic clutch so that might prove to be an easier route.
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Wiring for lights was unaffected pulled my complete fuel injection harness out along with computer. Alternator is standard ls truck alternator converted to a single wire setup by a local alternator repair shop for around $100 i think.