i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Been slowly swapping a 2002 5.3L LM7 from an Avalanche into my 88 Z31. Finally got the engine in and running, so I figured I should do a build thread.

I had originally purchased a gold 88 NA with some serious running issues/leaks/etc. I decided to Remove the VG30E and go with an LSx (nothing against the VG30, I just felt like doing something else). Ended up scrapping the original shell due to terminal rust issues that I didn't see when the project was started. Picked up a blown up turbo automatic 88 in Buffalo and continued on.

Summary:

Engine is a 2002 5.3L from Benwood Auto Parts in NY with an F-body intake and oil pan, Hooker block hugger shorty headers, custom wiring harness

Transmission is a TKO600, RAM clutch with Mcleod hydraulic throwout setup and Willwood master cylinder with adapter plate for 240sx.

Gauges are stock, most likely upgrading oil and temp units. Tach and speedo currently function with Dakota Digital signal converters. Still working on warning lights.

Battery relocated to spare tire well

Coolant surge tank is from a 96 Saab 9000 Turbo, any 90's Saturn tank will work as well. The Saab one has better hose locations

Brakes are stock 88 turbo brakes

Custom engine/trans mounts made from VG30E hardware on stock NA crossmember

Steering rack is gutted stock 88 unit. Stock Z31 steering pump with a stock Z alternator pulley would work with LSx AC belt setup, decided to use manual steering to reduce clutter.

Hood closes with room to spare (no picture due to temporary fuel line that sticks up above the hood line).

Corvette filter/regulator assembly with stock fuel lines

Stock throttle cable works fine on a simple angle iron bracket

Custom engine harness with stock PCM (VATS/emissions deleted by LT1swap.com).

No exhaust or driveshaft yet.






Original car with bitchin' louvers



First test fit, no good with truck intake, truck oil pan sits too low, tunnel needed "massaged"



TKO600 5 speed




Motor mounts made from plate and stock VG30E brackets



Trans crossmember made from stock NA 5 speed part and some box tube



New shell



Engine installed with F-body oil pan & intake, hooker block hugger shorty headers



Trans is a touch too far forward, but shifts fine with some light cutting of the plastic shifter trim. Shifter handle looks off center, but is fine



Keeping stock tach and speedo, Dakota Digital signal adapters with relays mounted in place of stock PCM



Custom alternator and idler bracket (F-body stuff will work but I couldn't find brackets at reasonable cost). Needs a brace welded in for the idler.



Engine fuses and relays, made from the gold car's under hood relay box



Taurus fan, stock radiator still needs upgraded



OBDII port is fully functional (tested with scan tool from work)



My friends and I got wasted and made a video for everyone.
(link removed)


Car should be ready for a first drive within a month (don't hold me to that). All that's really left to do is have a driveshaft and an exhaust made (and some cleanup of the wiring and such). I'm sure I'm forgetting something. If you have a question, ask away.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Here's my first run in all is nighttime lame camera glory! Don't mind my mom in the background.

(link removed)

Doesn't seem to be running quite right, but there are no O2 sensors and the MAF wasn't installed. It starts stuttering once it warms up enough to trip the engine light. Found that the throttle isn't opening all the way either. And my steering wheel is upside down.... Hopefully the bugs will work themselves out and this thing will be ready by next pay.

Langdonious Rex

iTrader: (4)

Love this swap. Always had a thing for the Z31s. Once I was in the market I ended up with a Z33 (350z) instead. It's getting an LS too. Can't wait to see this bad boy in action getting sideways!

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Car has been on the road for about 2300 miles. Had some issues with my transmission leaking and diff chatter, but they seem to be fixed for now. Got an exhaust a few weeks ago.

(link removed)

The car pulls pretty hard from the drivers seat, but seems to be a bit slower than I had expected. Saving up for a cam, ls6 intake, underdrive pulley, and a tune (and probably a better clutch). Hopefully I'll have the cash before winter hits.

scorpio516

Still got the OEM R200 in it?
It's should have 3.7 gears and a clutch LSD, being a later turbo. Any issues with it?

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Yep, still has the factory diff. It doesn't seem to mind the extra power, but my tires suck so I can't say for sure. I was having some chatter issues at first, but changing out the (likely original) fluid made a world of difference.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Finally made it out to the track for test & tune night. Went a best of 13.75 at 103.7 mph, .98 sec reaction and 2.06 sec 60ft. Engine is stock, crap tires on the rear. Clutch slip when shifting (faulty master, since been corrected). Hope to see 12's or better next year.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Some minor updates:

LS6 intake
Tokico 5 way shocks & struts
Poly bushings all around
PRO 5.0 Shifter
SLP Underdrive

Still to come for this winter:

Clutch upgrade and shifter linkage fix -
LS6 PCV
Cam & tune - Parts are here, waiting on money for HPT
Tires - Got some RE970s coming later this week
Wheels if I have any money left - Nope.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Lots O' Parts:





Strut bar I made a few months ago (complete with awesomely bad welding!) :





Teardown:

turbonola

nice job

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Seems to be running strong. Got a best of 13.2 @ 109.2 (2.1 60') out of it on 225/50 all seasons and a DIY street tune. I think 12s are doable with some better tires.

juanevilgoat

man you are waay ahead of me still. i got the motor and tranny in already just havent been able to do the damn harness (lack of time and money... and patience) i have the harness and computer but just cant seem to figure out what the heck to do now. im at a dead end...

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Decide where you want the PCM and start running wires. Stop when you get sick of it. Once you hear it run you won't be able to stop.

pdsq98gt

What cam did you go with?

juanevilgoat

did you keep the vg pcm in the car or did take it out completely? i got carried away and took it out along with every wire that was connected to it. what i cant figure out is how to make it run with the old ignition harness. i was thinking of puting everything on a switch panel (found a cheap moroso on ebay)

juanevilgoat

oh and if you want some cheap rims do what i did, went to the junk yard and got some roush rims for 120 bucks. they fit perfet with no rub on the struts. hey are 17x8 so you can get a 275 in the back.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

Sorry, must have missed your reply. This forum moves pretty fast. I removed the VG30 engine harness and computer from my car. The body electrical stuff runs on its own without the Nissan computer.

I wired my LS harness as a standalone, then used an ignition hot from the fuse box inside the car to activate my relays. I used the auto trans fuse, but any should work. 4 relays aren't much of a load.

I'm debating using Mustang wheels because they're cheap, but I think I'd rather find some Conquest wheels.


Cam is a Texas Speed 224/228 on 112 LSA


Clutch master cylinder failed completely without warning today (second time in a year). I was able to get a push start and limp home. My clutch fluid is full of clutch dust, but my slave is working fine and I'm not losing any fluid. I'm assuming the dust is what ruined my master cylinder, but I'm not sure if its normal contamination or a faulty slave. All of my beater stick cars have had dust floating in the clutch master and never had any issues.

audacious nick

Those welds. Bro, those welds.

Jay Gadsby

iTrader: (3)

Nice man! Your videos made me chuckle. "My oil pressure gauge works!!". Welding is on of those skills that you need to practice practice practice with. Especially stick and TIG IMO.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

How hard was it to put the motor in?