PnPGuys

Great forum! Really excited to get some info from the experts on here. We are cloning a 1980 Esprit into the Bandit edition style Trans Am. I am a complete noob to the muscle car world, but so far, I'm finding them not that difficult.

We have the engine and tranny pulled and the subframe nearly cleaned up.

Just got an '00 LS1 and 4L60e, with full harness. Intake to rear O2 sensor, harness to oil pan...

I am going to need guidance for mounts, exhaust, driveshaft, etc. I know you guys can tell me what to get and where to get it...

Pics to come.. LOTS of pics....

zamora7

iTrader: (4)

Definitely post some pics as I'm doing a second gen as well. Motor mount plates use the 1in setback from carshop, they work great with sbc mounts. To get the motor started you are going to need a new fuel system and disable VATS from the PCM. Your swap should be easier since its an auto and mine is a six speed so its gonna take me some fabbing time. The driveshaft you most likely are going to have a new one made to a custom length.

retardedpenguin

iTrader: (2)

Get the Tanks Inc fuel set up. And do it right the first time. Set everything in like that's the way it's going to stay. Don't half *** it because you will regret it later, experience speaking.

You picked a good car, I've done two S/E trans ams And a 70 Camaro, cheap cars to restore and drive damn near like a new car.

PnPGuys

Thanks for the Tanks Inc. info.
good stuff at the right price...

I agree with the cheap to buy and restore idea too.

Mine got kinda monkeyed with however.
Someone threw an actual Pontiac 400 in it.
A '68 GTO block according to the numbers.
In the process, the welded in two lengths of C-channel.
LOTS of fun to remove....

almost ready to test fit the block and tranny.





yeah I was TRYING to be careful cutting it out.....

PnPGuys

and remember, I'm a COMPLETE noob when it comes to Domestic cars...
I'm going to be asking seemingly stupid questions.

For example, since this thing came with monkeyed mounts, I have no idea how
mounts actually bolt to the subframe! Does one use bolts that go thru the subframe? Doesn't seem like there is a ton of meat to bolt to. Do the mount come with bolts?

Told ya.... Dumb sounding questions.

retardedpenguin

iTrader: (2)

I got custom mounts for a swap into an 80's truck, cut them down to fit and welded them on. But yes the bolts go through the subframe.

Wire brush everything down half *** and spray paint it flat black.

MillsMotorvation

Glad to see some one else doing one! I have pic, and info on my swap. Not at all computer savy, but you can look for LQ4 swap into a 1981TTA.

PnPGuys

Penguin,
You say I should do the fuel system "right the first time"... I agree!
What does it entail?
Is it better to have a in tank pump? I presume it is, but it has got to be MUCH
more difficult to do...
I also presume I'll need to plumb hard lines up to the fuel rails and back.
I'm into cheap and easy, but will go for what actually works if it isnt too much
more expensive...

Beebe

Keep the picts comin

eroc022

iTrader: (7)

Well year one makes a kit that includes a new X-member for the trans, if interested ill post up later when I'm on a computer of stuff needed for a bolt in swap.

PnPGuys

Just got the engine and tranny delivered
Pics to come....

retardedpenguin

iTrader: (2)

I reused the hard lines. I put the vette filter/ regulator right on the intake and ran rubber hose to the hard lines, you'll see when you do it or I can put some pics up. Cheap and easy.

You can run an in line pump but If you drive it hard your tank always has to be half full or something. It's the one part worth paying the extra $100 for and it's not too difficult.

Also buy a stand alone harness, it's about $350 but worth every penny. Aside from the in tank set up, harness and engine, the rest is pretty cheap.

PnPGuys

Eroc022 - found the crossmember you're talking about... $249?!?!?!?
I was told you can use the original and just kick it back an inch....
anybody know for sure?