devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I have I build thread on here, but I've been having some IAT temp issues at idle. They tend to run around 140+ which is about 20-30 degrees more than what my tuner says they like to see. So, I was wondering what all could be done to help reduce those temps.

I've already had to add the Taurus fan mod to my car to help keep the engine temps down, which now at during stop and go never gets above 210. Though I can't seem to keep those IAT's down.

Here's a pic of what I have right now for an intake. Not a whole lot of room to work with.

pdsq98gt

Those maf's tend to heat soak real bad in the trucks also. You could always put an IAT in the actual intake manifold and take the wires from the maf and wire them to the IAT. It's worth a shot and fairly cheap.

2xLS3

iTrader: (3)

In the S13 and S14 swaps high air inlet temps seem to be common. First I'd run a 180 degree stat and set the fan to accomindate this. Next try to box in your air inlet to prevent the engine compartment air from entering the air filter. i know they make spacers for the back of the hood hinges for those cars, to try to lower the compartment temp. You can also wrap your exhaust mainfolds to try to get the compartment temp lower. Moving the IAT sensor will do you no good, since the temperture is real, its not like something nearby is radiating heat at it and giving a false temp. I thought the guys doing that swap put the air inlet on the drivers side and tried to point it downward, to catch some of the outside air

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

Already have a 160 stat with the taurus fan and the PCM tuned for it. I might try boxing in or moving my MAF out of the engine bay if I can find room to move my wiper resevour. Yeah the heat soak is crazy under my hood. I need to try and find bigger spacers for the hood I used some nuts on there, but they only raised it up a hair.

Maybe I will do a box for the MAF. Should it be enclosed minus the hole I have under the MAF and filter from the old intercooler? Maybe make a scoop under the hole as well to funnel the air?

Exhuast wrap on the mani's isn't going to happen such a hassel to do on the car.

2xLS3

iTrader: (3)

You could also put some louvers on the hood, to try to extract the air
If you're running a 160 stat, you need more cooling if its hitting 210
With a 180 stat I don't like if it hits 200
I try to never use a 160 stat, in case its running rich and starts washing the walls

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

Cooling is a sketchy game with the 240's and the swaps. My iron block just likes to soak the heat, but the iats are my main conscern. Tuner was happy with only 210 in the heat just the ait is the issue.

I hear temps of 210ish are common with the iron blocks from the trucks.

2xLS3

iTrader: (3)

It's even an issue with the aluminium ones, in the S13 and S14's, but getting your motor temp down will help lower the under the hood temp, therefore lowering the IAT. With that high of an AIT, your PCM is going to have an issue trying to control A/F ratio, since the tables aren't really fine tuned for air temps that high. I'm willing to bet, you have some pretty wide swings in your O2 readings
Try building a box around your filter, even if you use cardboard. Try to get it to draw the air from in front or from underneath. After you get your cardboard one fitting to your satisfaction, make it out of metal or plastic.

2xLS3

iTrader: (3)

If you're running a 160 stat are you starting to turn the fans on around 170 or so

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

Cool I will mock something up out of cardboard and go from there. I iknow the air off the fan carries some heat and i will try and isolate the maf from all that heat under the hood.

trsilvias13

iTrader: (1)

Since your windshield reservoir is in the way (passenger side), you should run a different radiator. The one you have is for a SR motor set up. If you run a KA/RB radiator, you can route the intake the other way (toward driver's side) and have the filter pointed down after cutting a hole in the provide space. There should already be a plastic plug there about 3in or so, so you would have to enlarge it. You would need a 90* coupler and some straight intake tubing. There is more than enough room on the driver side than the passenger side.

devlmaycry

iTrader: (2)

Yeah my radiator and waterpump are set up for and SR. The ls3 waterpump was cheaper than a new radiator when I was gathering parts for my swap. My remote mount oil filter is in the open space on the drivers side, but I might move the washer over there in the remaining space. Then route the air intake through the hole that's already there on the passenger side from the old intercooler piping.

claytonisbob

iTrader: (1)

Having your MAF next to the radiator like that may cause the IAT sensor in the MAF to heat soak a bit. Switching to a 4th gen IAT sensor would be a cheap way to get more accurate IAT's (which should probably be a little cooler). The end of my conical K&N filter had a hole that seemed like it was there for that reason even lol.

Lowering engine temps I think are going to give you diminishing returns if it's not running too hot as is. Exhaust insulation and a baffle for that filter or running the filter to a cooler spot would be the most effective.