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Burned LQ4.. Pretty much all plastic and wires will need to be replaced. Need advise

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Old 06-14-2012, 10:20 AM
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Question Burned LQ4.. Pretty much all plastic and wires will need to be replaced. Need advise

I found a really cheap 6.0L LQ4 that has caught fire. The salvage yard claims the motor spins with no problem. My question is, with those aluminum heads, is it possible some serious damage was done to it? Harness and pretty much any sensor on motor will have to be replaced including coil packs, wires, injectors, and anything else plastic..Any and all opinions are welcome, I need as much advice as possible. I am considering getting it....

One thing to keep in mind is, I am already searching for an LS6 intake, LS1 injectors, harness, LS2 coilpacks with wires, and fuel rail.. (What am I missing???)

Last edited by AlterEgo; 06-14-2012 at 10:20 AM. Reason: misspelling
Old 06-14-2012, 11:57 AM
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With everything shot, Sound like your starting with a long block... not a problem but will cost some to get all of the parts needed.

Might need to inspect and change the front and rear main seal and any other gasket or seal.

If you think the heads might be damage. might be a good time to removed them and have a shop inspect them and maybe refresh them anyway if the engine had any mileage on it. Any idea of the year and mileage ?

Good Luck, keep us posted.

BC
Old 06-14-2012, 12:02 PM
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Agreed with BC. We just bought a 2009 L76 from a Silverado that was in a fire. Got a pretty good deal on it, everything plastic was melted and we ended up pulling the heads off and having our machine shop take them apart and clean them up. Still a good deal. If you are getting it for the right price should should be fine even if you have to get some parts for it.

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Old 06-14-2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
With everything shot, Sound like your starting with a long block... not a problem but will cost some to get all of the parts needed.

Might need to inspect and change the front and rear main seal and any other gasket or seal.

If you think the heads might be damage. might be a good time to removed them and have a shop inspect them and maybe refresh them anyway if the engine had any mileage on it. Any idea of the year and mileage ?

Good Luck, keep us posted.

BC
I was gonna tear it down and have heads checked and on whatever I found. I also wanted to get a set of LS heads once I found some also... (Later on down the road.)

So what do you guys think?? Will I be pretty safe with that, expecially if I go through everything??

I dont know about about miles, I figured once I swap the heads and cam out, and replace all the seals, it should be a pretty much fresh start. (I will check for crank bearnings also..)

Originally Posted by psiconversion
Agreed with BC. We just bought a 2009 L76 from a Silverado that was in a fire. Got a pretty good deal on it, everything plastic was melted and we ended up pulling the heads off and having our machine shop take them apart and clean them up. Still a good deal. If you are getting it for the right price should should be fine even if you have to get some parts for it.

Jon
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How did your L76 turn out after all said and done? Was it worth it buying that motor?? I can get it for $600.. Maybe 5 if I play my cards right!!
Old 06-14-2012, 01:34 PM
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My opinion...I would't pay $500 or $600 for it. I figure by the time you buy all the other parts and inspect/rebuild the engine, you could buy a good low mileage motor and be ready to go.
Old 06-14-2012, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jsanford
My opinion...I would't pay $500 or $600 for it. I figure by the time you buy all the other parts and inspect/rebuild the engine, you could buy a good low mileage motor and be ready to go.
You have a point, but the thing I am looking at is I am without a doubt will eventually get the LS heads, intake, injectors, fuel rail, coil packs, cam and all. I figure when all said and done, with this burned motor, it will be about the same price as getting a better motor to begin with. BUT I will have all of the upgrades already done vs paying more upfront for a better motor with lower miles and still needing to pay even more money for all of the upgrades we are all trying to do with the 5.3/6.0L's....

I forgot to mention that the chevy express van is a 2004 year.... Am I going to have to get the foot pedals for the throttle??? I know some years require the pedals to run, Im not sure if this is one of them or not...?

Does anyone know??
Old 06-14-2012, 03:36 PM
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Depends on which throttle body is on there and if it is usable. Either way you can make it cable driven or drive-by-wire. Your choice. Only thing to pay attention to if you go cable driven is to make sure whatever ECU you get can support it.
Old 06-14-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by mille_3
Depends on which throttle body is on there and if it is usable. Either way you can make it cable driven or drive-by-wire. Your choice. Only thing to pay attention to if you go cable driven is to make sure whatever ECU you get can support it.
I would like to have it cable driven so I wont have to mess with my pedal configuration.. I dont suppose you know which throttle body I can put on there?? I want to be at least 90mm... And ideas?????
Old 06-14-2012, 04:40 PM
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I hear the ebay TB work ! That's what I'll be buying(90-92mm), as long as it has the necessary sensors(TPS, etc).
Old 06-14-2012, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Daz
I hear the ebay TB work ! That's what I'll be buying(90-92mm), as long as it has the necessary sensors(TPS, etc).
oh really??? Do you have an ebay link, item number some search terms so I can find one???
Old 06-14-2012, 09:19 PM
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We are still putting it back together. Heads checked out ok. Will let you know how it turns out.

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Old 06-14-2012, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by psiconversion
We are still putting it back together. Heads checked out ok. Will let you know how it turns out.

Jon
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Cool... Thx Jon...

by the way, they called me back and told me I can have the motor for $650 because of no core to turn in.. Kinda sucks because the ad never mentioned anything about a core charge...... Do you think its still a decent deal??
Old 06-14-2012, 10:06 PM
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IMO it is too much for a fire damaged engine, they didn't mention a core charge because that is basically what you are buying. As in your words you don't know the mileage on it, and it will need to be completely gone through. Have you priced seals and gaskets and head gaskets for that engine? By the time you are done buying just those parts you will be over a $1000.00 for a unknown mileage long block that still may need to be rebuilt.

The accessories alone that are roasted will put a big dent in your wallet, that engine is going to nickel and dime you till your wallet is empty. I'd walk away there are too many of these engines complete with accessories and wiring and the PCM and that you can see and hear run for that price range. When the comments came that if you get it "for the right price" I think everyone is thinking $200-$300?? You sound a little too ready to jump the gun, slow down and keep looking there are plenty of better deals out there.

Last edited by lizeec; 06-14-2012 at 10:16 PM.
Old 06-14-2012, 10:24 PM
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650 is way too much for a burned engine IMO. Odds are good that the fire was put out, meaning it got a good dose of water sprayed on it, and when the intake has melted away, the water goes in any cylinder with an open valve. If it's been sitting for a while the cylinder walls could be rusted. I speak from experience, because I have a burned LS6 block with pitted cylinder liners that I don't think a hone will get rid of.
Old 06-14-2012, 10:29 PM
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This is the one I'm after !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380388201288...ht_3865wt_1344
Old 06-15-2012, 05:32 AM
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You could save a lot of money by going carburated. Either that or buy another complete motor just to swap parts off.
Old 06-15-2012, 07:35 AM
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My friend has 2001 T/A, already gone by fire. There had ls1/6 speed manual looks burned. Agreed with Ls1Nova said..I ll check on it. I ll pix of it and post it..
Old 06-15-2012, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lizeec
IMO it is too much for a fire damaged engine, they didn't mention a core charge because that is basically what you are buying. As in your words you don't know the mileage on it, and it will need to be completely gone through. Have you priced seals and gaskets and head gaskets for that engine? By the time you are done buying just those parts you will be over a $1000.00 for a unknown mileage long block that still may need to be rebuilt.

The accessories alone that are roasted will put a big dent in your wallet, that engine is going to nickel and dime you till your wallet is empty. I'd walk away there are too many of these engines complete with accessories and wiring and the PCM and that you can see and hear run for that price range. When the comments came that if you get it "for the right price" I think everyone is thinking $200-$300?? You sound a little too ready to jump the gun, slow down and keep looking there are plenty of better deals out there.
You are right about that, I really am ready to buy one. Actually, I never once thought about all the accessories I may have to replace.. (JY claims engine was only burned on top but who knows.) I asked him to email me a picture of the motor and he said, "yea I will email it "after" I pull the motor." (off course they want a nice deposit in order to start pulling motor..)

But thank for the advice. You really opened my eyes with the detailed explaination.

Originally Posted by Daz
Cool beans dude! Im gonna look around on ebay and see whats out there.. Any specific reason as to why you like this one?? Is this the one you heard is pretty decent??
Old 06-15-2012, 12:12 PM
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I like the price mostly ! Its a 92mm but would've been ok with a 90mm too. I'm running a TBSS manifold on my 4.8 turbo build so its quite a bit bigger the the stock. I didn't hear that one imparticularly just in general !
Old 06-15-2012, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
650 is way too much for a burned engine IMO. Odds are good that the fire was put out, meaning it got a good dose of water sprayed on it, and when the intake has melted away, the water goes in any cylinder with an open valve. If it's been sitting for a while the cylinder walls could be rusted. I speak from experience, because I have a burned LS6 block with pitted cylinder liners that I don't think a hone will get rid of.
Thats is good thinking also... I asked the JY yesterday how long have they had it and they said "a while" so that is a very good possibility.... Thx!! Something else to think about...

1 question, if your block, or the one I wanted is pitted badly, can it be re-sleeved??? Not sure if these blocks can do that or not....

Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
You could save a lot of money by going carburated. Either that or buy another complete motor just to swap parts off.
I really want to go fuel injected... LS swap in classic cars are better than sliced bread to me!! I have a freshly rebuild 327 small block with a fresh rebuilt T400 with only 117 miles on them. I also have an entire P600b procharger setup I just bought a few months ago to throw on it.. But I changed my mind about carburation and older SBC's after finding this site.. I keep telling myself I "need" to just put that procharger on it and call it a day, but this swap really has my attention......

Originally Posted by Daz
I like the price mostly ! Its a 92mm but would've been ok with a 90mm too. I'm running a TBSS manifold on my 4.8 turbo build so its quite a bit bigger the the stock. I didn't hear that one imparticularly just in general !
Oh you have a 4.8 turboed??? I see a LOT of 4.8's.. Ive alwayed wondered what they could do... How does that 4.8L w/turbo work out for you?? What car do you have it in?? I have a 70 chevelle... Not sure what I could do with that... (I kno its the same block, but still dont know what it could do...)

Fill me in...! lol


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