FakeSnake

For those of you that are space challenged and in need of a straight water neck i found this on an eldorado and it bolts right up. didnt look what year it was but it bolted right up... granted i still need to adapt a thermostat into it but it beats spending 75$ on a billet one...

bakomack

Good find

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Find some housing is the easy part... most likely there are many other that might bolt up, but as you state, the thermostat will be the problem. Yes there are some housing out there that are using the standard SBC T-Stat, but if you research, you will find that there are problems,

Just a thought, I do hope you find a good solution with the T-Stat issue. Just remember that the SBC and the LSx work differently..

BC

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Just don't try to use an old style SBC Chevy thermostat. I learned that the hard way. The thermostat needs to have the extra part with the disk that controls the by-pass. Look at your water pump and you will see the two chambers the disk controls. Without it, hot coolant can be pulled right back into the motor without going through the radiator. If you have a monster radiator with lots of air flow you could be ok with the old style t-stat, but proceed with caution. I added a picture of the LS style thermostat you need. They cost about $13 at your FLAPS. One you can ask for is for a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V.

Here is a link for the CBM unit I am using now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CBM-10613-GM...983173&vxp=mtr

Pat

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Cool find but can you guess a year or even engine family? Was this from a Northstar engine? They made Eldorados for many years with many engine options.

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

http://www.csr-performance.com/shop/...-1.5-inch-hose

Look here.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Better find.............

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Note.. the CSR one uses the older SBC / Standard type of Thermostat, which can cause problems. The CBM one does uses the standard OEM GEN III/IV LSx type of Thermostat..

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Always some catch to what sounds good. Had my eye on the CSR type. I havn't looked at this in depth yet on the two types of T-stats. Without looking at it, the Ls style can by-pass the radiator if not hot enough? Then change flow to radiator when hot via the "disk" as stated earlier? Sounds like the old style will function but, some hot fluid will be routed back to the block without flowing to radiator. IF that's right I can see potential issues. Is the LS and SBC t-stat the same in size or specific to their housing?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yes.. that what i have read and also speaking to Pat (Stu-Cool).. as you can read from his posts and threads.. he has some good words on this subject. But yes, do some research.

IMO.. stick with the OEM GEN III/IV type.. it will work as designed. Remember that the Thermostat was moved from the return (SBC/BBC) to the water pump feed side on the Gen III/IV engine... and that redesign needs be considered when using not factor designed parts.. in this case the Thermostat, the ByPass design and how it functions..

BC

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I was using the CSR housing with a 180 SBC thermostat. Initially I thought it worked fine. But when I drove it for long periods with my AC on, or when I encountered long steep uphill grades I had over heating problems. Switching to the CBM housing and a proper LS thermostat worked much better. From my experience I would recommend against using a thermostat that does not have the extra pieces to manage the by pass. Here is a link to a simple diagram of coolant flow:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-schematic.jpg

And here is a link with some excellent cooling system information.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...CoolingSystems

Pat

2nd Gen Fl 'bird

iTrader: (13)

Just read the info. Everyone should read this. I think I'll go with the CBM housing because running hot gets me in a foul mood.

tta656

iTrader: (5)

Beat me to it ,,but any how....Better find