axelg89

Hi,

I have been planning this swap for a few years but have now decided that it's time to take the step into the LS world! So after alot of good recommendations from you guys I ordered my combo from R J salvages in NY. Its a LS1 t56 combo out of a camaro 2002 with 52k miles on it. It took a few months to get it back to sweden clearing customs etc but after alot of waiting it was finally here and I started working on the car.

This swap will probably take a while as I'm a full time student 160 miles away from my garage but from time to time I'll put effort into the car and hopefully it will be back on the road in not too long.

I think the pictures will speak for themselves and tell whats been done so far so here they are.
The car last summer


Startline
http://i49.tinypic.com/19azon.jpg

My engine lift didn't manage to reach the engine so I had to get a bigger lift..
http://i46.tinypic.com/e5qr85.jpg

My three Vs are saying hello
http://i46.tinypic.com/21eb78.jpg

Empty
http://i45.tinypic.com/2w6tr93.jpg

No going back
http://i50.tinypic.com/29psuup.jpg

Before


After




Before


After


So thats it for now. Today is a new day and I'm leaving for the garage now.

I have one question though, on the LS engine there is a lot of stuff, do I need it all? For example there is two fuel lines, one going to the fuel rails and one going to a little plastic thing connecting to the TB? There is also a pretty massive tube connecting the two exhaust manifolds.. Can I remove any of these or will it affect performance?

Sorry if my english is a bit out.
Thats all for now!

97badass

iTrader: (8)

The fuel line going to the tb is a fuel tank vent. And the lines going to the 2 exhaust manifolds are your egr... Both can be deleted if you have your computer reprogramed.

cprmn14

sub'd.

Ive got a C3 aswell, but its a 79.

Good luck man! cant wait to see the ls1 in the bay!!

74modified

Nice looking 69 Axel
You don’t need them, as long as the authorities are not looking for the emission equipment of the newer engine. You can have them dropped out of the computer during programing, to prevent trouble codes from setting. The exhaust can be welded up if you are using the manifolds. The fuel vent would not work on your fuel tank as it has a vented cap. This engine should drop in as is, except for the heater hose outlets on the water pump. You have to tap/thread the openings and put in 90 degree fittings or plug them and add other outlets. The upper suspension is in the way.

ou

axelg89

Thanks for all the nice replys, will take the EGR and vent away then as emission control will be pretty simple as the car is older the 1975.

There was a bit of activity in the garage today too. Have been fixing all the cracks that I could find with new fiber and polyester and also welded the frame where there was rust just under the radiator.

Completed the day by cleaning then engine up, removing the heater outlets on the side of the pump and mounting the adapter plates and sb mounts so that the engine is now more or less ready to be dropped in to see that everything fits.

Tomorrow is a new day with new goals. Dont know if there pictures can interest anyone but I'll put them up here.

Before












After












And the now a little naked engine




Thats all for today =)

axelg89

Hi guys,

So here is the last update for a while. Holidays are coming up and had to leave the garage. Feels like I've done quiet a bit in a week and I'm pretty happy with that. Finished the week by lifting the new drive train in, bolting it up, modifying the existing trans cross member and cutting a bit in the tunnel as the t56 was higher then the previous th350. Also fabricated a bracket for the master clutch cylinder. It needs a lot of finishing work to look nice but sure does the job and all angles seem to be spot on.

So here are some pictures then
Need some grining and paint but works nicely


From inside


Trans cross member


Going in


Tight & nice


Bolts in place


Thats it, marry Christmas everybody!
//

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

Subscribed for a fellow C3 LS1 swapper. Looks like a great project.

74modified

Good work!
I recommend adding a remote bleeder to the clutch slave. Much easier maintenance. It is a common problem to need the T56 fluid changed and bled.
Here is an example.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Re...der,41385.html

axelg89

will absolutely add one of those!

Thanks

-Q-

iTrader: (10)

I had to buy a Motive pressure bleeder to even begin to get my clutch to bleed...just FYI. They are a great tool, and you can use them to bleed your brakes as well.

axelg89

One more very productive long weekend have passed and I took 2 friends with me to help me with me with the build and we got a lot done.

Things that got done:
¤ Side Exhaust are fabricated and ready to go on when new gaskets arrive
¤ Engine is finally in for the last time (hopefully) with all new trans and engine mounts
¤ Engine bay, tank, trans crossmember are painted satin black along with some smaller parts
¤ Tank is modified with the wallbro pump mounted inside.
¤ Waterpump got modified, tapped two new exits and sealed the existing onces
¤ New electric system is in the car. Needs some more connecting but is mostly done except under dash
¤ The engine wiring is almost done, have a bit of work left on the fuse/relay board but it's more or less done.
¤ Pedal assembly, clutch hydraulics and steering column is back in the car.

Feels like a really good weekend in the right direction. I wasn't to great at taking pictures but here are some atleast:

Ready for paint


Paint is drying and life is gooood. Finally spring here in Sweden


Finally going in for the last time


Happy about that, we didn't know how hard it would be to get the mounts in


After some work, didn't feel to bright by then


Keeping on struggling


Starting to look better again


~15 hours of work and thinking later


When the wiring to hard you can always have a **** load of beer and still be happy about life


I think thats it for now.. Ordered the last parts today and HP tuners so I can configure the PCM and remove VATS.

Hope you're all having a great monday!

axelg89

Another long weekend now behind me and my car.

Have had a weekend full of electrical work with a bit of fuel and exhuast on the side. Finished all of the engine wiring, most of the car wiring, the tank and the exhaust. Also started the car for the first time! It started right up when I got fuel to it and run fine for 2 sec before VATS kicked in. The feeling was truely amazing. I'm putting multi connectors on everything and really taking my time on the wiring, hope to avoid more problems with it after this

Here are some pictures!

Engine wiring finally done:



Tank modified for intank pump


New engine wiring in place


New wiring for the gauges



A few wires to keep track of


New under dash wiring


New instruments



Newly painted exhaust covers


All for this time

axelg89

Spent the weekend working on the car and got a lot done. The cooling system is complete and done, all the wiring and vacuum is done and most of the interior is done. Also tested all the new electronics and it works flawlessly. Can recommend Keep it clean wiring harness for anyone doing a swap and wanting to renew their car wiring at the same time. Its not original and it requires some work but the price is a joke compared to factory harnesses that wont fit right with the LS anyways.

Starting to look like a car again


Also got a driveshaft. Ordered it thursday from england and it arrived today. Its a lot stronger then factory and the price with new joints and shipping was a fraction of the price the local shop asked for just shortening and balancing my exsisting shaft.


Now its really itching to get driving again!

axelg89

Got the yoke mounted on the driveshaft, went fairly smoothly. My car had a 1310 joint in the rear and now has a GM 3R in the front of the driveshaft.

I'm currently looking at configuring my tach and speedo and would like some advice. Have wired everything to take the tach and speedo signal from the LS1 pcm. I've read everything I could find about it but havn't found any solid answers and would like some advice on what to pick below.

I have a couple of jumpers on the tach and speedo which correspond with the following:
Speedo:
1. Hall effect sensor (logic input)
2. Magnetic sender (analog input)

Tach:
1. Ignition coil or W terminal
2. Magnetic sender (analog input)
3. Multispark tacho output (MSD ignitions)

Which settings should I pick? If I can just get a readable signal into the gauges I think they will be pretty easy to calibrate so that they show the right value but need to get signal through. These jumpers sit pretty badly so I would love to have it right from the beginning.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

If you are taking the speed signal off the transmission then it will be a magnetic pickup.

The tach signal will be Ignition Coil.

Andrew

axelg89

Thanks!

I'm taking the speed signal of the pcm. Pin red 50 i think...

/ Axel

axelg89

Ok so I got everything together, an OBD2 port soldered in and was able to take the vats away and go for a first test drive.

Not at all what I was hoping for:

• First of all the engine has almost no power at all (it idles fine and eveything but power is almost none),
• Secondly the radiator was leeking coolant,
• Thirdly there was a lot of vibrations in the car.

Also the check engine light doesn't light up when ignition is on and car not running, it does however light up as you are cranking the engine, is this normal?

Tonight I'll go out to the garage with my laptop and see if HP Tuners can give me any indications of what's wrong with the engine, why it isn't giving any power.

When that is fixed I'll try to solve the leak and last but not least I'll try to deal with the vibrations but they might actually be because the engine is running rough so will wait with those to the end.

The positive things are that car is running and driveable and that all my gauges seem to work fine! (speedo needs calibration).

axelg89

Ok so just went for a testdrive with HP tuners active and scanning.

The car performed better then I remembered but there are still some things to sort out to say the least. The light still doesn't come on when ignition is on and the computer put out the following DTCs:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

• P0200 - Injector Control Circuit (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0300 - Engine Misfire Detected (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0412 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Solenoid Relay Control Circuit Bank 1 (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0418 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) Pump Relay Control Circuit Bank 1 (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0443 - EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve 1 Control CKT (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0449 - Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Control Circuit (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0452 - Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Pending) (Old) (Current) (Immature)
• P0463 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)
• P0645 - Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch Relay Control Circuit (Pending) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature)

Continuous Tests
Misfire: Complete
Fuel System: Complete
Comprehensive Component: Complete


Once Per Trip Tests
Catalyst: Incomplete
Heated Catalyst: n/a
Evaporative System: Incomplete
Secondary Air System: Incomplete
A/C System Refrigerant: n/a
Oxygen Sensor: Incomplete
Oxygen Sensor Heater: Incomplete
EGR System: n/a

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The first two codes aren't good and I can find a lot of threads on how to chech for troubles so I'll start by doing that. However the rest of the codes are stange as I have unchecked all of the "SES enable" boxes for them in HP tuners but they still appear, why is that?

Also is it normal that it doesn't complete all the checks at the bottom?

Last of all I also noticed that the o2 sensors were strangly constant around 440 - 460 mV. I thought they would go up and down a lot more?

I uploaded the log file for HP tuners here if anyone care to look at it:
http://www.2shared.com/file/lBLJRKik/2_run.html

I'm very new at this and any input that you might have would be great help. Will read as many threads as I can on the codes to find my way but any help is very appritiated.

// Axel

donnie_19

What gauges did you use?

axelg89

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Gauge-set-Speedo-Tacho-Oil-Temp-Fuel-Volt-black-face-chrome-bezel-/261029282643?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc68ec353&vxp=mtr
seem to work very well so far and looks real nice!