Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Now that I have completed my motor/trans swap and everything is running I thought I should consolidate everything into one thread for future reference. My build went very straight forward with only a small hiccup or two along the way (mostly me ordering the wrong parts out of impatience), so I wanted to share my exact parts list from start to finish in hopes it makes someone else’s life much easier.
Here is my build thread (https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...d-w-video.html)
The only non-bolt on thing I had to do was move my motor mounts back and slightly notch my frame cross member using a cutting wheel and a sledge hammer. I also cut out my radiator core support and modified it to fit the stock Camaro radiator. This is optional, you can go with your own but I couldn’t pass it up at the junkyard. Notching the frame and welding the motor mounts may sound like a huge pain in the rear, but it took about 30 minutes to do and if you don’t have the ability to do the welding or a friend who can, there are a ton of mobile welding services on craigslist. Another option is using the CTS-V oil pan (I ran stock F-body), but my firewall to block clearance is perfect right now with tons of space up front for the radiator and fans. I have future plans for a single big turbo so front space is definitely going to come in handy. I can’t imagine having the motor any further forward, especially for steering box clearance on the A-body.
I am running truck accessories and truck crank pulley and a reduced size power steering pump pulley (see below). Everything clears without issue, the higher position of the alternator was worrisome but it clears the hood no problem. Here is my list I kept of everything. This will give you an idea what costs you will incur when doing this swap, of course a lot of time as well. It took me just over 3 months doing this on weekends to get the car done, runs like a champ!!!! I’m always available for questions, PM me.

Wiring Harness $100 - local salvage yard
PCM $100 – local salvage yard
Camaro radiator and Fans $50 - Local salvage yard
Truck Accessory Bracket with P/S pump - $50 salvage yard
Truck Crank Pulley - $30 salvage yard
Dirty Dingo Idler relocation bracket $28.99
Dirty Dingo Smaller Power steering pulley (to clear steering box) w/ belt = $39.99
Dirty Dingo Water Pump spacer - $89.99
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump - $185.99
Bosch 044 AN fittings - $14.00
(http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?...&product_id=79)
Texas speed and performance mail in tune = $ 225
Street and Performance Swap mounts (http://www.hotrodlane.cc/) $150 (I think)
Energy Suspension Solid SBC Motor Mount (2) $36 = $72
Short and Wide SBC Frame Mounts (Set back approx. ˝” – until tranny lined up in stock position)
Earl’s -6AN Swivel Adapter $17.42 ( )
OBD -2 Pigtail $29.97 ( )
Wix Filter Regulator - WIX Part # 33737 Rockauto.com $ 32.79
25 Feet of 3/8” Stainless Fuel Line (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-29425/overview) $87.95

Summit Part Numbers
PRF-30002 ATO FUSE CENTER $8.95
PRF-50102 FUEL PUMP RELAY KIT $36.95
PRF-80204 DASH INDICATOR LIGHT/RED $5.88
VIA-80237 RELAY AND WIRING SOCKET $11.90
DAK-SEN-01-4160 Dakota Digital VSS PASS THROUGH SENDER $34.95
LOK-TC-1000LS1U THROTTLE CABLE BLACK $49.95
PTP-7-1604 TRANSMISSION MOUNT GM RED $21.95
EAR-9892086ERL FEMALE 8 MALE 6 REDUCER $8.95 (2) = $17.90
RUS-640850 Quick Disconnect EFI TO 6 AN FITTING $15.95 (3) = $47.85
SUM-220690 6AN HOSE END STRAIGHT $4.88 (8) = $39.04
NAL-12557840 CRANK BOLT $4.95

PARTS Total = $1,584.36
LS1 Motor (with MS4 cam, LS6 intake, upgraded springs) = $2000
TH400 Transmission = $150
TCI 3800 Stall Converter on Ebay = $350
Junkyard Driveshaft 1993 Suburban w/ yoke = $50
Misc electrical connectors, solder, tape ….. $75

GRAND TOTAL = $4,209.36

Capown

iTrader: (5)

Kick *** thank you sir!!

Street and Performance Swap mounts (http://www.hotrodlane.cc/) $150 (I think)
I can't find anything on there site is this the addapter plates?
Short and Wide SBC Frame Mounts (Set back approx. ˝” – until tranny lined up in stock position)
Where did you get these or are you referring to the Energy Suspension mounts you have in the previous line?

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Hey Capown,
Yes. The adapter plates. I just called them and ordered them on phone. I was going back and forth on mounts, these worked out very good for me. When I refer to the short and wide frame mounts I'm talking about the part attached to the crossmember in the engine bay (not the mounts that bolt to motor, but to frame). I got mine from a friend who has a 67' Chevelle that he wasn't using. But you can get them on eBay. I have pics of them in my other thread.

I did a slight frame notch, then I bolted the swap plates, motor mounts, and frame mounts up to motor, dropped it into place and I measured everything to ensure motor was in straight and not twisted/rotated etc. Once I did all of that and knew my tranny was also where it should be then I tack welded the frame mounts to frame. Unbolted it and pulled everything out. Then went to town with the welder. Painted everything and then Did a little drinking.

I've since installed and pulled the motor 2x and it goes right in perfect every time.

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Your sig says you've lost interest in your 67'. You gonna get the swap done now??

Capown

iTrader: (5)

Lol yeah, I've decided to finish my dream car(67 LeMans) The mustang was another handfull all in its self. I picked up another Coupe roller with extra parts that I can add to my other coupe. They will be sorted out later this year or next. I'm trying to figure out what trans I wanna go with on the 67 I have a th400 w/4k stall, a 4l60 w/stock stall and a 4l80 with stock stall. I really wanna go with the 80e but I don't feel like doing fab work to the Trans tunnel. UGH i just can't decide what route I wanna go.

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Just run the 400. No wiring crap to worry about, VERY strong tranny. I'm pushing 450hp though it right now and its taking it like a champ.

velox65

iTrader: (9)

Im tossing around this idea for my 64 442, I already have a few ls's laying around taking up space and a few truck drive setups. since youve done the swap in your opinion is the fuel injection the way to go or would the carb route save alot of time (ie. wiring, and and the fuel pump setup.)

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

Of course I am biased because I am already running injected, but I would definitely go fuel injected. Then you can have the computer tuned for any future mods, or even get HP Tuners if you want to do it yourself. No finicky carb adjustments, crappy cold starts, etc. It took me 1 day to do the harness, and another day to create the fuse panel/relays and wiring to the fuel pump. It is more mental than anything, because you don't want to screw it up and be doing it over and over again.

Also either get a computer and harness that are out of the same vehicle, or de-pin your harness to match your computer if you are not sure where it came out of. My car would not start because I stupidly assumed the harness matched my computer and I had to re-pin the whole thing. Fired up first try after I fixed that!!!

I know it is nostalgic to put a carb motor in your 442, but if you want nostalgia then you wouldn't put an LS1 in there!!! Honestly you would not be dissapointed!!

67Skylark

I have a newer 4L80E-coolers lines, one in front and one mid way back. Stuffed it onto a 67 Skylark and just need to move the tunnel where the lines come out, but no cutting and welding, If you want to save at the pump each time take the time to fit OD unit with a lockup converter, should be a big help over the 400 w/stall

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty much screwed at the pump with 3.73's and my lead foot!!

1989GTA

Do you think if you used the Dirty Dingo engine mount sliders that you would have had to moved the motor mount stand offs back a 1/2". Just trying to figure how mine is going to go and if I can get away with the factory mounts. I should be starting my install in about 3 weeks.

Chiropaul

iTrader: (2)

I saw those after I was pretty far along in my build, and I bet they would have saved me a lot of time. Also from what I read, the CTS-V oil pan would have helped me clear the cross member without modification.

I've used 3 Dirty Dingo products in my build and they were all very well designed pieces. If they work out let us all know!!