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Took a look at those tune's and the log. Your friend is using some different injector data than I am but that doesn't mean its wrong, just a different approach. From what I see there it should work fine. I'm curious what your base fuel psi is with the vacuum line removed?
Also in the log I noticed the map sensor doesn't seem to be registering, it shows the same value through the entire log. The cylinder airmass is showing way too high for idle as well which would make sense if the map value used to calculate it is 90kpa.
So I would check the connection on your map sensor and related wiring to start with.
Thanks man, that is really useful information. I was wondering about that map reading... It didn't want to move at all even though my gauge moved obviously.
I got the 3 bar from efisource, and I followed the original wiring for the ls map sensor when I put the pigtail on. I assumed the red wire was power and black wire ground and yellow wire was signal. These could be wrong. Is there a more specific connector pinout for this sensor?
I'm curious what your base fuel psi is with the vacuum line removed?
I set the base fuel pressure with the engine off at 55psi, though I do have about a 5-10psi discrepancy between my mechanical Autogauge gauge which is on the rail and my electronic Autometer gauge which has its sender on the regulator. I assume the Autometer gauge is more accurate but it is further back in the system, but no more than 8-10 inches. I'm not sure which one to trust.
It seems that my bank 2 O2 sensor is way low compared to my bank 1, like hundreds of mV different. This wasn't the case until now. Before they ran almost identical all the time.
Also when I put it in gear, it chokes out and dies every time.
I am running a 4l80e with no PRNDL switch. Do I need to modify something else in the tune to accomodate for the abrupt load change? I've already turned the switch off. Would it be easier to just put the switch back in? I have the wiring for it still in the harness.
Also it still idles way lean. When I rev it up, it seems to adjust instantly to a comfortable range. Also, when I rev it up, the low o2 sensor shoots up and matches the higher one, which makes me think the passesnger one (or the driver one) isn't turning on correctly when idling.
I usually lean my idle out to about 16:1. I've leaned it out on my 4 cylinders to as much as 18:1 so it was just bouncing around at the edge of the wideband reading. If it stays running and stays cool, no point in dumping extra fuel on it at idle. Just keep an eye on the plugs.
I usually lean my idle out to about 16:1. I've leaned it out on my 4 cylinders to as much as 18:1 so it was just bouncing around at the edge of the wideband reading. If it stays running and stays cool, no point in dumping extra fuel on it at idle. Just keep an eye on the plugs.
Ok thanks, I'll just drive it that way for now. I can't believe that this thing actually works and starts and runs.
I took it around town today. The main issue is that my rear leaf springs are so shot that my fenderwells are basically tearing at my tires anytime the body rolls. So leaf springs are going in ASAP.
I also have zero power steering. I don't know if this is the steering box, power steering pump, or the fact that there is now a hydroboost system between them. I need to read into how to diagnose these two pieces some more, but I'll probably just end up with a quick ratio box since this is an essential upgrade anyway.
I am going to work on front brakes for now also, before I get into my rear end. I want to make the car safe, stabile, and stoppable long before I make it hook and go fast.
Well I got my new leaf springs in (Landrum 175 mono-leaf) with poly shackle bushings. I'll change out the front rubber bushing when I do my cal-tracs.
Ride height is almost exactly where I want it. The front needs to come down a tad, but I'll wait until I get coil-overs because of these...
Yes, those are 275s on all 4 corners (well, at least 3 for now) with 17" C6 deep-dish replicas. I put a 2-1/2" spacer on and they fit... everywhere... with an 1/8" of clearance on the frame rail and the rear of the fender lip and only at full lock. They literally fit everywhere! I am buying SPC control arms still, but they literally don't touch anywhere. It's a miracle... I don't need no stickin' $1000 true-turn.
Note: I did use a 1-3/4" spacer on the rear wheels and they fit beautifully.
I also cleaned up and painted some front end components and put a power steering pump on. Haven't really gotten it on the street yet with the new springs and pump, so I'm unsure if that fixed my problem. If not, I'll throw a fast ratio SS Monte steering box in and call it a day.
You sure 275s will fit when you get the front end down a bit? It seems that you'll be spaced out too far. If not, bravo! I'd love to fit 275s on the front of mine without major modification.
You sure 275s will fit when you get the front end down a bit? It seems that you'll be spaced out too far. If not, bravo! I'd love to fit 275s on the front of mine without major modification.
Ya, obviously the fender lip will need to be monitored, but I think with some coil overs I can dial this in good.
The frame clearance actually improved when the car came back down to current ride height.
I'll keep the updates coming on how this all turns out.
I just ordered some SPC upper control arms and tall ball joints from SC&C which will aid in the clearance as well.
A couple new toys to make this thing handle and stop better...
SPC adjustable control arms with 1" taller Howe ball joints. LS1 brakes with the adapter caliper bracket from Rich Hoag, and longer/stronger wheel studs from jegs.
Waiting on my 2-1/2" wheel spacers from motorsport-tech.com, as well as my built 9" for the rear... then this thing gets back on the road again and I'll really get to see what kind of power it has.
Anyone have any input on the Summit Racing 2.5" dual exhaust fitment for Novas? I was thinking of splitting my downpipe into duals and running it out the back.
Also, any input on issues or deficiencies of the Competition Engineering bolt-in subframe connectors?
I was considering getting them because they're cheap and then adding extra bracketry and material to make them even better.
11-13-2014, 12:15 PM
