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Mine wouldn't show any pressure while cranking either but as soon as it fired up and was idling it immediately came up, this was also on a used oil pump not new.
I spent last night packing the pump with grease and putting the spark plugs back in. I'm going to turn it back on this afternoon and see what happens.
Here's a sentimental picture from the first startup day... I waited all day for my buddies to show up so we could get the credits figured out and get his tune copied over... and all that to have no oil pressure...
hopefully tonight will be a different and happier story.
This is why you thoroughly check your junkyard motor, even after a hot tank and rebuild.
Paraffin wax? Dried up stop-leak? Idk, but there was about 6 inches of this stuff right behind the front oil galley freeze plug blocking all oil flow back to the filter. Had to dig/drill it all out. Found my oil pressure issue.
The machine shop should've seen that crap in there when they hot tanked it, but like you said never hurts to double check somebody else's work.
Glad you found the problem, now does it run?
They should have, but they didn't pull that front freeze plug, which hid all of the buildup. It is quite frustrating, but I'm just glad at this point to not have a seized motor and pressure and the ability to turn it on.
I'm going to go by there tonight and talk to them to make sure this doesn't happen to a much higher-dollar build for another customer.
Yes, it does run. It does turn on. It is certainly not a finished tune, but I can get it to stay running.
Right now I'm at about a 10:1 A/F Ratio, which is essentially a flooded carburetor, so that's a struggle for the motor. So I'm going to tweak the VE tables a bit and see if that cleans it up. I may take it around the block tonight if I can. Maybe I'll get a new video up tonight.
Any insight from anyone on this?
Glad you found the issue and got her running with oil pressure! I hate to the stick in the mud, but I would be concerned that the engine may already have sustained damage from the 0 oil pressure run time already experienced. It doesn’t take long to start degrading crank/cam bearings. Maybe an oil change and filter inspection is in order?
And I would for sure talk to the engine builder, and try to get some extended warranty, something along the lines of; if this engine starts to eat itself in the next 5000 miles and/or 2 years due to this oil issue that he is on the line for replacement or repayment.
I hope I am wrong, I’ve been watching this build come along for a while and can’t wait for the first burnout and strip videos!
I would never go back to that machine shop. They should have seen that when R&Ring the oil plug.
I hope there isn't more of that somewhere in the oil system.
It should be virtually impossible for there to be any more in the motor as the first place for this to go would be through the filter, but it does make me wonder why this vehicle ended up in the salvage yard.
Glad you found the issue and got her running with oil pressure! I hate to the stick in the mud, but I would be concerned that the engine may already have sustained damage from the 0 oil pressure run time already experienced. It doesn’t take long to start degrading crank/cam bearings. Maybe an oil change and filter inspection is in order?
And I would for sure talk to the engine builder, and try to get some extended warranty, something along the lines of; if this engine starts to eat itself in the next 5000 miles and/or 2 years due to this oil issue that he is on the line for replacement or repayment.
I hope I am wrong, I’ve been watching this build come along for a while and can’t wait for the first burnout and strip videos!
Ya, I've been scared a lot over the potential bearing damage. I wasn't as concerned within the first few starts because of the assembly lube, but this thing has run quite a bit with zero oil.
The problem is, all the engine builder did was clean up and inspect the motor and put the cam bearings in. I assembled the rotating assembly. So honestly, it's debatable who is more at fault. Also I doubt there'll be any type of warranty situation since I assembled everything. But if it was "thoroughly cleaned" properly, the front plug would have been pulled and this oil passage would have been cleaned out.
I'll be talking to him tonight just to continue my discussion with him about this.
Well I've got some more of the tune figured out... by this I mean I copied over a few more tables from my buddy's tune and got it to run and start smoother. I'm still running really fat - 10-10.5:1. I've tried to pull a point out of my VE table but as soon as I touch it, it prevents it from staying running after the first fire.
I am almost certain that my stability issues are due to the afr but I'll need some more knowledge to be able to lean this out properly in hptuners.
What injectors are you running? Having the right voltage offsets for the injectors is pretty important. When I had mine wrong the motor was always hunting for proper idle.
What injectors are you running? Having the right voltage offsets for the injectors is pretty important. When I had mine wrong the motor was always hunting for proper idle.
Siemens Deka 80lb
I've got 83lb/hr across the board for Injector Flow rates
I'm also running e85 though...
Last edited by ryanleiker; 11-12-2014 at 02:39 PM.
Same injectors I'm running, is the flow rate the only setting you changed in hp? Can you post the tune?
There have been so many changes to the tune that I don't even know why or where they come from. I'm just copying over tables that look dramatically different than my stock setup. All the changes are from my friend's LS1 tune with the same camshaft and injectors.
I can post his tune and my current tune this evening after work.
In the hptuners scanner, I was able to activate Closed Loop at idle and the afr raised to 11-11.5:1 and the motor dramatically smoothed out as soon as it got to 11, so I'm pretty sure I will have a solid foundation once I can get this thing up to around 12-13 if not 13.5-14 at idle. I haven't tried anything under load or driving it yet, so we'll see where I end up.
My Autometer Tach is off from the scanner also, so I'm trying to figure that out too. In the 8 cyl. setting it was half the rpms and in the 4cyl setting its way too high... I guess I'll try the 6 cyl. Does the Tach output resolution at 6 have anything to do with this?
If he is running the same base fuel psi as you his settings should be close but can definitely tell more once you post the tune.
Yes the tach resolution affects how many pulses are outputed to your autometer tach. When I searched around I heard you could just put the tach in 4 cyl mode as well but mine is old enough you have to cut wires to do it, so I changed the tach resolution to 3 in EFILive(same as hp tuners) instead. It reads close to the scantool but is still about 200 rpm high at idle and 100 rpm or so around 6000, not sure why there is still a difference. Hope that helps a little bit.
If he is running the same base fuel psi as you his settings should be close but can definitely tell more once you post the tune.
My main problem I've been having has been that even if I change the VE table by adding or subtracting 1% across the board to lean it out, it won't start the car after I write the new calibration.
Do I need to wait a certain amount of time or cycle the key a certain way to get it to fully register correctly?
I feel like changing the VE table causes a bunch of other things to change as well and makes these new numbers useless without modifying other things as well. I'm just unsure what those other things are as far as tables and where I get the correct values to put it.
Took a look at those tune's and the log. Your friend is using some different injector data than I am but that doesn't mean its wrong, just a different approach. From what I see there it should work fine. I'm curious what your base fuel psi is with the vacuum line removed?
Also in the log I noticed the map sensor doesn't seem to be registering, it shows the same value through the entire log. The cylinder airmass is showing way too high for idle as well which would make sense if the map value used to calculate it is 90kpa.
So I would check the connection on your map sensor and related wiring to start with.
11-07-2014, 02:13 PM
