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Spent some time today working on the body. Most specifically the roof to quarter panel areas. So much hand sanding, using a long flexible board to get the curve. Still have some more low spots to contend with.
Also, tried to line up my big block motor frame brackets since I can not for the life of me find sbc. The clam shells do not fit, already tried those. Driver side lines up beautifully, the passenger side does not. The bottom hole of the passenger side is just at the edge of the other hole. Not sure what to do. Maybe drill, bolt it and get someone to tack it to the frame?
Recieved my 1" set back carshop plates, Big block engine mounts that actually do fit with the carshop plates.
Also went and picked up my 80k mile 6.0 LS for core value of $350. Engine has a ticking noise I am told. Looking forward to tearing this down and building it up.
Good choice on the motor and car shop plates, Im using the same plates on my 81 bird with a ls1 from a 2000 trans am. Everything worked perfect, only thing I had to do is cut back some of the plastic behind the alternator and had to do away with the ac as it hits the frame. Used stainless works 1 7/8 headers that arepretty awesome.
Good choice on the motor and car shop plates, Im using the same plates on my 81 bird with a ls1 from a 2000 trans am. Everything worked perfect, only thing I had to do is cut back some of the plastic behind the alternator and had to do away with the ac as it hits the frame. Used stainless works 1 7/8 headers that arepretty awesome.
Thanks for the tip on stainless works, I have not looked at them yet.
I am in the great debate now of this motor, 500 hp at the flywheel is my goal and/or low 12 second quarter mile time. I have to get long tube headers for it for the swap. Also have to get a stall converter for the automatic trans and currently already have 3.73's in a rear end I need to swap over.
I have to pull the heads to check/replace the lifters (which is where I believe the ticking noise is). So I am thinking of just getting a complete cam kit for it.
The 317 heads though... Another guy locally has a set of 799 heads for sale for $350, thinking about that since it would be a quick boost in compression and less weight, but I could just spend that at the local machine shop for some head work...
The current truck intake will be okay for my needs in my opinion, can't see why I would go to the LS1 or LS2 intake. Unless a fast intake shows up at a dirt cheap price.
Just got a call from a local yard I put some feelers out for heads. $250 for a set of 799 heads from a 5.3 truck. Think it's worth it to pick them and mill them a touch? Put them on the 6.0 would give a small boost in compression.
Just got a call from a local yard I put some feelers out for heads. $250 for a set of 799 heads from a 5.3 truck. Think it's worth it to pick them and mill them a touch? Put them on the 6.0 would give a small boost in compression.
Thats a steal, usually 799/243 heads go for $400 plus. i believe the truck heads come with slightly heavier valves than the ones in corvette ls6/2 motors. Also the 317 heads flow the same as the 243/799 heads, just lower compression.
Thats a steal, usually 799/243 heads go for $400 plus. i believe the truck heads come with slightly heavier valves than the ones in corvette ls6/2 motors. Also the 317 heads flow the same as the 243/799 heads, just lower compression.
Well, Since I am building a NA motor, I think the 799 heads would be a better choice for that added bit of compression, every little bit would help. I think I am going to call them back and pick them up.
Waiting for Comp Cams to get back to me about a cam recommendation.
Did some more body work tonight. Finally got the pillars done. Onto the roof top then the sides, then touching up the fenders and doors. Then primer! OMG, feels like I might actually not have a bare metal car anymore.
Local yard just called me back. Got a set of 799 heads from a 2011 5.3 for $350 with extremely low miles. I believe i would have to change the intake plenum then?
So here is where my motor build is looking like with dollars so far:
LQ4 with 317 cylinder heads, intake was cracked. - $350
Felpro head gasket set - $170
Felpro timing cover gasket set - $31
flepro oil pan gasket - $36
LS1 oil pan, pick up and wintage tray - $225
Comp cams & lifter kit#k54-444-11 @ summit -$886
36# Accel Injectors - $300
799 cylinder heads -$300
Full synthetic oil and filters - $50
Truck intake assembly - $100
wiring harness conversion???
It's been awhile since I did an update. Been working on the body. Only have the drivers rocker and bottom rear quarter left of that section of the shell. Hopefully can get a good weekend b of 50 60 degrees so I can prime and seal it while I work on the doors and fenders. Going to order my 2" cowl next week when some parts I sold clear.
Haven't torn down the 6.0 yet. Been busy helping my buddy with his lt1 that had broken exhaust manifold bolts. Ended up dropping the motor to get to them...
Got my 70 Shell and doors in epoxy primer. Hoping to finish the fenders and put a coat of epoxy primer on them and urethane primer build on the rest this weekend if the weather stays good like last weekend.
I ordered some engine parts from summit racing and a new headliner for my 87 IROC. I have to replace that this year, just totally fell apart. Whats another weekend project.
I ordered the trickflow cam #TFS-30602001, Lift .560/.560, Lobe Sep. 114. Seemed like a nice mild cam that will still have good street manners with the 799 heads and for the hour long commute to and from work. If I get 450 hp at the flywheel, then that will be enough for me for awhile. I also ordered the summit valve train upgrade kit, lifter and guide kit, all new gaskets and head bolts, should be good for the putting back together.
Going to be on the hunt for some good used LS2 injectors from a GTO or Corvette. If someone has some, then let me know a price!
Also looking for some good used swap headers, or I am just thinking of ordering the stainless works after I get some more money in.
I have had unfortunately very limited time lately. So I put together the core support and brackets.
Studying for my ASE and on the wedding planning craze right now. She has somehow found lots of small **** to get done this past couple weeks. More stuff off the check list, but I did tell her, the less time I have to work on it, the more likely its not going to be on the road this summer.
So a friend of mine just gave me a LS1 intake from a 2000 Z28. I ran the number and it is not an LS6 which is what he thought it was. It has the TB, injectors and rail all connected. Is it worth putting on incase I have hood clearance issues with the truck intake since I am stuck on a budget with my upcoming wedding? I am figuring the 06 Truck intake should flow like an LS6 would. Let it breath better and make more horsepower. Just not look as good.
And I think I still need to upgrade to 32lb injectors for this set up.
Fenders are in primer sealer. Really not a fan on this eastwood stuff. looks fine for 15 minutes then starts to sag. Just going to wet sand it out and put the urethane primer builder over it Though next weekend hopefully, or put in the new body bushing.
Also started disassembling the motor.
This is exactly how it looked when i removed the heads. Strange the one cylinder is much more cleaner.
Just realized I have not updated in quite a while. Been trying to get my 4.10's quiet in my 02 formula. Wedding planning and swing dance lessons have been taking up quiet a bit of time too.
I've got the body, doors, and fenders on the 70 Camaro blocked, started redoing the seats and putting on the deluxe seat covers at home since I can do that while discussing wedding plans in the living room. Going to paint the jams, underside of the cowl hood and cowl before I put the doors on. Probably going to happen in august at some point.
I have a question about oil pick up tubes. The LQ4 I picked up, the tube actually has a different end to it then the f-body tube where it bolts into the pump. The f-body tube is flared. I see a part for an o-ring online but there is no o-ring on this tube. buy the o-ring and install or not worry about it? It fits in no problem, just the design is different. (I can see the need for the o-ring with the truck pick up because there is no flare, but with the fbody with the flared end I am not sure.)
Buy the matching o-ring. It's good idea to add a BRP Oil Pump Pickup Tube Girdle . Its cheap insurance @ 24.95. www.brphotrods.com Click on the F-body section and generation for more info for more.
the posi unit in my 02 formula let go, pinion ate into the carrier. Searching for a new set of gears now. The thicker ones have all made noise, have people had good success with the thinner gear rings being quieter?
02-14-2015, 10:57 PM
