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Modifying Fbody pan for LS1 swap into Gen 3 nova, need help

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Old 03-09-2014, 09:54 AM
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Default Modifying Fbody pan for LS1 swap into Gen 3 nova, need help

Hi guys,

I'm dropping an LS1 into my 73 Nova and need some help. I used the Hooker LS swap brackets and T56 transmission crossmember and cut the heck out of my stock tunnel. So as it sits all bolted up, My Fbody pan is 3" from the rear of the factory crossmember. The steering linkage bolts up, but the car wouldn't be able to turn. I'd like to cut as little as possible out of the Fbody pan, can some one take a pic of the dimension needed from the back of the crossmember to the clearanced spot on the pan?

Here's where I am at:





Thanks guys.
Old 03-10-2014, 09:54 AM
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To clarify, I'm looking for anyone with an LS in a third gen regardless of pan choice, to give me the dimension from the crossmember to their pan.
Old 03-10-2014, 10:05 AM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...cs-loaded.html
Old 03-10-2014, 10:19 AM
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I think I have some reference info that may be helpful to you in dimensioning your pan. The new Hooker 302-2 pan that was developed specifically to work with the Hooker engine mounts you have in your car has a sump length of 9.75" and fits perfectly with the stock steering of your car. If you plan to upgrade your steering to the Ridetech TruTurn system, we've just discovered that it requires another 1/4 of clearance at the front of the sump to accommodate that upgrade, so you would need to shorten your sump that extra amount if you plan to go that route.
Old 03-10-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
I think I have some reference info that may be helpful to you in dimensioning your pan. The new Hooker 302-2 pan that was developed specifically to work with the Hooker engine mounts you have in your car has a sump length of 9.75" and fits perfectly with the stock steering of your car. If you plan to upgrade your steering to the Ridetech TruTurn system, we've just discovered that it requires another 1/4 of clearance at the front of the sump to accommodate that upgrade, so you would need to shorten your sump that extra amount if you plan to go that route.
I plan on using the stock steering just buying new components and a 12:1 box. I'm gonna end up with the Speedtech Road assault kit for arms and such.
Old 03-10-2014, 11:23 AM
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Jesus you cut a lot out of that pan. Was there a pic with the pan installed from the bottom?
Old 03-12-2014, 01:18 PM
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Still looking for a little help.
Old 03-12-2014, 01:56 PM
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I would buy the Holley pan and be done with it as cutting and welding a previously used pan is usually very hard to get cleanly welded due to contamination with oil. Just my 2cents worth.
Old 03-12-2014, 02:52 PM
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So, it may look like a lot BUT when the steering is turned lock to lock, the center link MOVES FORWARD...I learned this AFTER I cut the pan.

Also, the the center link hits the side of the pan which is why there is that little triangle thing on the side of the pan.
Old 03-12-2014, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mantycarguy
I would buy the Holley pan and be done with it as cutting and welding a previously used pan is usually very hard to get cleanly welded due to contamination with oil. Just my 2cents worth.
I already have an Fbody pan, came with the donor car. I'd like to use that. The Holley is a nice product though and what I would buy if I didn't have a preexisting piece.
Old 03-12-2014, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Chicago TDP
So, it may look like a lot BUT when the steering is turned lock to lock, the center link MOVES FORWARD...I learned this AFTER I cut the pan.

Also, the the center link hits the side of the pan which is why there is that little triangle thing on the side of the pan.
So how much would you say you actually "needed" to cut?
Old 03-12-2014, 04:42 PM
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I think 2.5"

I will check tonight
Old 03-14-2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Chicago TDP
I think 2.5"

I will check tonight
Did you happen to check?



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