sfiore

putting a L76 /6L80E combo into a 52 chevy fleetline
need to make a choice for a radiator
and looking for what has been working for like swaps
information like manufacturer,rows, tube size ,
trans cooler internal (yes or no)
hp rating (if there is such a thing)
and if connections for the steam line are there,
and if relocation of supply and return lines required
are there any special consideration needed
also looking for recommendations and "don't buy from them"
comments.and anything else you may feel is pertinant
to making a good selection
the L76 had the AFM deleted and a cam swap, looking for
~+500 hp when done.
find out on chassis dino when done
thanks for help
steve

superdave84

You'll get all kinds of answers, and I am most likely in the minority on his one...

Most people swear by aluminum radiators. All well and good if you want to put several hundred dollars down on one. In my case, I have been trying to keep EVERYTHING I can from the car the engine came from (2005 GTO). I kept all the wiring and pigtails from bumper to bumper. My thought is that GM did it better than I can myself.

So, I got a GTO fan and radiator and put it in my Impala. A Spectra one. There were options available in aluminum, but they started at about $600. I can break 4 Spectra radiators before paying that much. So for me, that made the most sense.

Since you are doing the L76 you can probably fit the G8 radiator into whatever you are looking to build. I imagine they are fairly small...at least compared to a truck radiator.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

I put cheap ($230) Jeg's dual-pass aluminum rads in both my swaps. I'm right down I-10 from you so you know all about our temps and humidity. Never had an overheat on my Mav swap, the other's a work in progress...

Tannerc91gt

iTrader: (1)

I've got an fbody rad and dual fans in my mustang. And a B&M supercooler

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Chances are the stock radiator already in the vehicle will do the job. LS motors don't seem particularly hard to cool.

Jegs and Summit sell some pretty cheap aluminum rads, most are under 2 bills. Just get your basic dimension, figure out where you want the inlet and outlet, and chances are they will have one that fits.

For fans, IMO pulling a set of an OEM vehicle is the ticket. Ford Taurus is a popular option. Dual F body fans work well too.

Best word of advice is just don't over think it.

sfiore

hear that about "do not over think"
plenty of aftermarket radiators out there
that have what I consider stock aluminum radiators that
will fit my application
main question
is about large tube 2 row versus small tube 3 row efficency
and manufacturer quality (recommend buy versus do not buy)
looking for experiences people have had
good versus bad

will69camaro

iTrader: (19)

Go extreme like me!
Attachment 725705

Attachment 725706

cmac06

iTrader: (16)

Is that an AutoRad radiator?

cmac06

iTrader: (16)

Answered in your other thread. That's badass! I like the way he mounted your intercoolers. Wish I would've seen that when he built mine.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to take a slightly different angle on this than most, but it works for the OEMS and it works for me. One thing most people forget is a radiator core that is too thick starts to give diminishing returns due to poor air flow through it. If you notice, most OEM radiators are fairly thin compared to our "hot rod" radiators, yet they cool amazingly well. I used to think it was the OEM's being cheap but after stripping apart tons of cars in salvage yards and being part of numerous hot rod builds I learned something it took OEM R&D to figure out:

Finding efficient ways to force the air you have to work with through the radiator with air dams, fans and shrouds is going to pay dividends over a poorly installed, excellent quality radiator from the best manufacturer.

Take for example most any modern plastic bumpered car from the early to mid 90's through present - they all have tiny grille openings and pick up most of their air from below the front bumper. A peek behind the grille reveals a series of air dams to control and route what little airflow is available through the radiator. These cars actually cool better than most 1950's to 70's cars with huge grille openings because of efficient air management. Topping off the recipe is an electric fan that is set to come on only as needed which saves rotating mass and parasitic drag on the engine. These cars are so good at moving air through the radiator, I've actually felt air moving from good (OEM style) electric fans and radiators with the hood closed several times.

will69camaro

iTrader: (19)

yep Autorad setup. Guys at GAP spoke with AutoRad and they said they've done this in the past. Mine isn't the first with the intercooler setup.

We'll see if they can support the power I'm wanting to make. If not, I'll upgrade them and change the hood latch (reason they're at an angle). I can fit a BIG intercooler arrangement then.

Now with the thread in mind: I agree, keep it simple, but one thing I never wanted to have an issue with is overheating or not being able to run A/C when it's really hot. I have been ensured that this setup will meet those needs and support what I plan to do with it.

William

rotary1307cc

iTrader: (5)

Howe, /story

Can have a completely custom one for cheap and fastfast

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, probably not many dudes swapping a 52 fleetside so you are going to need to apply some basic principles.

I will tell you I run a GM issue single row, single pass radiator from an Astro van in my car and have never had an issue. I have a two speed fan from a Taurus that only has the low speed hooked up. I have a 160° thermostat with a radiator fan switch set about 10° above that. Car runs 175 to 185 degrees when beating on it in city traffic in 90+° weather. If you read around you will see most guys on here have a similar experience.

The aluminum radiators are considerably different than the old school brass ones. The aluminum is stronger allowing them to build the cooling tubes differently improving both air flow and coolant flow. I can't imagine needing a 3 row unit.

Guys on here seem very loyal to certain brands of radiators. I'm sure they are well earned reps for performance and great customer service. But you could probably buy 3 jegs radiators for the price some guys spend on a single custom unit.

If you stick to an OEM aluminum unit and manage airflow like someone mentioned you won't be disappointed. Plus if it truly a stocker, you have a chance of finding a replacement unit should you take a rock through the radiator on a long road trip.

DEEDDUDE

I’m running an f-body radiator and fan setup in my swap very similar to yours. I wish I would have just bought an aluminum one that bolts into the original location; it would have saved a bunch of time and blended into the old car much better. One problem I had was with the air filter hitting the radiator and the top support, when I built the new lower mount I pushed it forward about a ½” and it help. I have still yet to build a top support that I like and that looks like it belongs. If you decide to run something other than the stock shaped radiator you may need to cut the support in the front part of the hood. The f-body rad is too wide to fit between the frame rails, so it needs to be lifted to fit which raises it 4 inches or so.

sfiore

Deeddude, hear you about keeping it stock
Have the complete layout from a 09 pontiac g8 GT
Radiator,fans,condenser etc.
To much revising of front header to fit
Probably will go with a 2 row 1 1/2" tube aluminum radiator
Made for a 52 fleetline.
Costs during search for a quality radiator has been ~ $400

sfiore

Well found a radiator I like
U.S. Radiator stock aluminum radiator for a V8
Specific for a 52 Fleetline
2-row with 1 1/8" tubes for $200 plus shipping
Total of $222
Like that it is a direct replacement requiring no mods
Looks like I should have ~ 4 1/4 " clearence
Between radiator and engine pulleys
Plenty of room for a puller electric fan