94 Ranger L33 TH350 2wd
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94 Ranger L33 TH350 2wd
I figured I should put my build out there. So all you Ford purist can take a hike! LOL.
Engine:
L33 5.3
Ls3 exhaust manifolds cut and welded
Trans-Dapt S10 mounts modified
95 Silverado CAI
130,000 miles
Frame rolled 1 inch on each side
Trans:
Th350
Summit 2300 Stall
Atp Z270 Flexplate with space and bolts
Modified original crossmember
Rear diff:
Stock for now 7.5 w 3:55 gears
Suspension:
33x12.50x15 tires
2" daystar leveling kit on front
Engine:
L33 5.3
Ls3 exhaust manifolds cut and welded
Trans-Dapt S10 mounts modified
95 Silverado CAI
130,000 miles
Frame rolled 1 inch on each side
Trans:
Th350
Summit 2300 Stall
Atp Z270 Flexplate with space and bolts
Modified original crossmember
Rear diff:
Stock for now 7.5 w 3:55 gears
Suspension:
33x12.50x15 tires
2" daystar leveling kit on front
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 09-29-2014 at 11:42 AM.
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I made fenderwell headers for mine(1990), didn't want to fight with frame for clearance. That steering shaft makes it tight either way. Mines a long way off from being complete. Everything is mocked up, now all tore apart, getting body ready for black paint.
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Honestly, I think the hardest part was having to cut the heater box. If that head was offset the same way as a 5.0, it would have been easy. I tried heating it like usual, but it would not push in far enough. So now i'll have to reshape it and only have 1/3 the air flow, which will suck living in Il. Frame rails are pretty easy to heat and roll over with a cresent wrench. If I did the steering shaft up grade with either a jeep shaft or Flaming river there would be a ton of clearance. I may still do that afterwards. You can't really tell from the pics, but I have a 1/4 inch around the shaft and when the engine torques up it should move away slightly.
#6
Any pics guys? V try cool swap for sure. I used to be into these rangers back when a bud had one. I bet you will surprise ALOT of people.
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Actually these fit tighter. I cut the part of the exit off that kicks out and welded Patriot 2 bolt flanges. Total width od 23 3/4" verses Hooker's 24.81" In the pic where the frame rail and exhaust exit is 23"id and expands to 24" id at edge of firewall. Frame will have to be rolled over either way. I picked up the e-rod/ls3 takeoffs for 100.00 and flanges for 10.00. It was a lot cheaper and yes Hookers will work for 300.00.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 09-01-2014 at 06:25 AM.
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Small Update.
1) B&M Star shifter installed
2) Tstat housing changed to 96 Mustang 3.8 housing to angle down 45 degrees from ls original inlet.
3) Pcm mounted next to overflow/washer fluid tank
4) corvette regulator mounted in factory ford bracket and new fittings on nylon fuel line.
1) B&M Star shifter installed
2) Tstat housing changed to 96 Mustang 3.8 housing to angle down 45 degrees from ls original inlet.
3) Pcm mounted next to overflow/washer fluid tank
4) corvette regulator mounted in factory ford bracket and new fittings on nylon fuel line.
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Small update....
Wired engine today. Integrated my harness into Ford fuse box. Remove clutch safety switch wiring and wired neutral safety switch up. Verified fuel pump runs, starter motor turns engine over and have spark.
Things left to do:
Driveshaft measurement
plumb transmission lines
power steering pulley
Belt
heater hoses
Flash PCM
Exhaust system
Just waiting on next couple of paychecks. LOL
Wired engine today. Integrated my harness into Ford fuse box. Remove clutch safety switch wiring and wired neutral safety switch up. Verified fuel pump runs, starter motor turns engine over and have spark.
Things left to do:
Driveshaft measurement
plumb transmission lines
power steering pulley
Belt
heater hoses
Flash PCM
Exhaust system
Just waiting on next couple of paychecks. LOL
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Just for fun today....
New set of plugs
primed the engine
Charged the battery
Fired it up, start right up for 2 seconds and the VATS took the fun away.
Slowly but surely getting there. Should have budgeted a couple hundred more dollars for the misc. BS. So far about 1900 in probably 2200 when finished to running and driving stage. Then there is paint and all the other goodies or maybe leave it looking like a beater and surprise people.
New set of plugs
primed the engine
Charged the battery
Fired it up, start right up for 2 seconds and the VATS took the fun away.
Slowly but surely getting there. Should have budgeted a couple hundred more dollars for the misc. BS. So far about 1900 in probably 2200 when finished to running and driving stage. Then there is paint and all the other goodies or maybe leave it looking like a beater and surprise people.
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Well haven't got much done on it lately. Had to put new porch on the house. There went time and money. I did get the PCM sent to Brendan to be flashed. The driveshaft measures 54.5" center to center of joints which happens to be a 70 Chevelle th400/ 12 bolt combo. So finding one of those cheap is like a needle in a haystack. But a 03 Crown Vic police car measures 55.5 and is aluminum. The only issue that I can see is having to get 1330 to 1350 u joints and put my 3" blocks in the back. Has any body used one and it held up behind a LS engine?
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 10-16-2014 at 04:26 PM.
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I got my pcm back from Brendan@LT1Swap.com, less than 1 day turn around time. Plugged it in and engine fired up and sat and idled perfectly. Now I just need exhaust and a few odds and ends to clean things up and she will be on the road again.
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It runs and drives. Now just need to get O2 sensors and exhaust. Then clear the O2 codes. Excuse the camera work, I used my wife's new tablet.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 10-26-2014 at 06:53 AM.
#16
Congrats !!!
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Small Update.
I've got the exhaust run out the back and O2 sensors in. So far it's been fun to drive with the exception of excessive wheel spin. LOL. This was expected from a little truck with stock type suspension and a little lift.
Yesterday I was driving across the empty end of the mall parking lot with the wife and I hit the loud pedal and lit them up. I pull into a parking space and a guy comes across the parking lot and taps on my window. I thought OH **** I'm in trouble. So I roll down the window and he says " geez what do you have in that?!". I told him. He was sitting in his Ranger and saw me. Now he wants a LS swap for his. Just thought I'd share.
Anyway, my Ranger sounds like a Silverado with performance exhaust which is what I was going for. Now to save some money for upgrades and enjoy the fruits of my labor.
Oh my wife likes the truck now too. LOL
I've got the exhaust run out the back and O2 sensors in. So far it's been fun to drive with the exception of excessive wheel spin. LOL. This was expected from a little truck with stock type suspension and a little lift.
Yesterday I was driving across the empty end of the mall parking lot with the wife and I hit the loud pedal and lit them up. I pull into a parking space and a guy comes across the parking lot and taps on my window. I thought OH **** I'm in trouble. So I roll down the window and he says " geez what do you have in that?!". I told him. He was sitting in his Ranger and saw me. Now he wants a LS swap for his. Just thought I'd share.
Anyway, my Ranger sounds like a Silverado with performance exhaust which is what I was going for. Now to save some money for upgrades and enjoy the fruits of my labor.
Oh my wife likes the truck now too. LOL
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If I were to do it over again, I'd get a alpha/ muscle car pan to allow a little more room around the suspension and more options for engine placement. Regular truck pan will still clear though. And I'd eliminate the rag joints on the steering shaft for more exhaust clearance. These two things would allow the engine to sit lower in the chassis.