gsjimmy

Little closer as of last night. Got the exhaust manifolds on w/ gaskets. Everything is clearing there. Also dropped the cab back down. Then I found an issue, need to move the coils just a bit more, 3/8 on the pass side and a inch on the driver side. The rubber boots just catch (plug wires). Also need some fittings for the trans lines. My aluminum radiator has the gen 1 style fittings and the S-10 lines are the bigger quick disconnect style.

Tonight I will raise the cab and fix my clearance issue at the coils (so close...) and check routing on the trans lines (off a bit, too low in the frame). Then hop to add the fenders & inner Fenders to the truck. This will allow the computer to go in and the hook-ups to be completed (I hope).

Trying to get her fired up this weekend. Open exhaust & all! The is the major hurdle right now. Then we tear down (some) and finish route the lines/wires and what ever else the computer says is wrong!

gsjimmy

Also waiting to get some more suspension parts in the mail and need to build that little bracket for the Idler Arm mount.

gsjimmy

Started to assemble the front end last night. Got the steering shaft on (no slop now!) and the dr side inner fender. Then onto the fuse box, which caused a small problem. I managed to pull off on of the injector plugs (2 small pink wires now exposed). I was routing the main harness to get the fuse box in and pulled the connection apart. Not sure if I can separate the weatherpack to rebuild the connector. But the replacement is cheap enough and will allow a little slack.

The Dr. Side coil pack is also done now. have 1/4 -5/16 clearance at the brake booster.

Tonight I will get the pass side coil pack reworked to clear the a/c suitcase by the same amount. Then build the relocation bracket for the idler arm (in and up about an inch to clear the sway bar, ZQ8 - 33 mm). My suspension kit is due in today at lunch time, this is the last of the needed steering parts and will allow the steering wheel to be centered (it's close, but off a little).

I do need to find a Jeep pinch bolt for the steering shaft. Mine is now in Colorado on a Pathfinder (kid lost his somehow). I also spoke to Gregg (harness builder). Found out that the missing evap purge plug really is missing (programed out). So I'm not crazy and have not routed the wiring wrong. I do need to find a way to plug this hole. I can build a cover to bolt down, but need an idea for a rubber plug of some type. Hole is 1/4 inch or so. Any ideas?

This weekend. Looking to bring up oil pressure and test fire the engine. Still need to add in the pass side fender/inner fender to get the computer mounted. Thinking I will install the old core support and radiator to get the system closed. New trans lines (Silverado) are waiting to get picked up this evening. My S-10 lines will not work no matter how much I swear at them.

Hoping to have a small list of needed items after I fire the engine. I know that it will go closed loop as I have the wrong O2 sensors and of course pull that code. Everything else is connected at this point (I think).

Jim

gsjimmy

Long weekend in the shop. Did up a bunch of loose ends. Spent way too much time chasing a ignition problem. I could turn over the engine at the stater, but nothing at the key.

Jumped the neutral safety switch, still a no start. Then I found that the harnsees connector was loose. after tightening it up, engine rolled over at the key. Sprayed a little starter fluid and got a good run out of the engine (30-40 seconds).

Now I can tie up all the loose ends and get to the alignment shop.

Going to run the original radiator for a bit until the new support is ready.

gsjimmy

As tested last night.

Lots of routing to do now!

gsjimmy

Got the box back on the truck last night, wired the tail lights (this is also the fuel pump circuit). Still have the S-10 4.3 pump in the tank. Turned on the key, no leaks. When to the start position, fired immediately, again no leaks. So the S10 hard line is working.

No coolant in her yet, so can't run it but a few seconds. But that was enough to find out that the tach isn't working, nor is the Amm meter and fuel gauge. I'm working with the harness builder on this, so far the fixes have been easy.

Tach signal is a white wire at the 16 pin connector at the computer. Will be checking that tonight. The fuel gauge is a connector at the neutral safety switch (2 pin, above the NS switch) So tonight I will check this out.

Tonight I will be working on the steering linkage (new parts). May even get the bracket made. If time allows, I may get to the Y-pipe (hope so).

So, the upper radiator hose is giving me fits. I have the Gates hose for a Dodge Ram, gets me most of the way there, but looks like I will have to cut it and add in a short piece of pipe. If this works, then the air tube may have an issue running to it's location. Everything is now fighting for space (not much area to work with!) Guess I can start to mock up this area to see if I can get things to play nice together.

gsjimmy

Well last night I got the core support on and found out that the space I thought I had for the upper rad. hose and intake tube doesn't exist. So guess I'll need to go on the S10 forum and look at some builds to get an idea of what's wrong.

Other issues:

The tach & gauges are not working. Oil pressure gauge (needle) quivers when the key goes to the on position, but when started says at 0. Pulled the valve cover to verify and I have oil in the rocker area. If spun over at the starter (coils and FP wires pulled) oil is coming out of the pushrods onto the rockers & down. So I know there is oil flow.

Verified that the 16 pin plug has the white tach signal wires in the correct place and that the plug is fully seated.

What am I missing here?

Oil pressure plug (back side of the intake) - plug is fully seated and the black ground wire is connected to the back of the head.

Temp gauge seems to work. Can only run the engine for a few seconds due to the radiator needing a final install and fill. I do see movement on this gauge. Tonight I will have to address the new core support and radiator and get them installed.

Gas gauge - reads empty. May have a plug undone, checking tonight on this.

I ordered the O2 sensors, should be in by Friday. Right now smells very rich, but lacking the O2's that would be correct. I have not pulled codes yet, should get the missing O2 input codes for bank 1 & 2. Which would put it into limp home/closed loop and dump extra fuel into the engine (rich).

I do have to build the Y-pipe and am getting the needed materials to do that.

So, any ideas?

gsjimmy

Got a whole bunch done over the weekend. Friday I was able to get the core support welded up. Got some frame pads for under the tanks and split some vacuum line for any exposed sharp edges. Condenser and radiator went right in. Sitting on my trash can waiting to go on now. Also figured out the upper rad hose and need to extend the lower hose about 3 inches.

Then moved onto the Y-pipe / exhaust build. This was a time eater. Started by raising the cab back up to gain clearance. Then the fun started. Pulled the computer back off (welding), pulled the plugs and unbolted the F-body manifolds.

Step one - welded on some 2 1/2 extensions (2.5 OD / ID) on each manifold. Bolted the manifolds on and measured for the actual pipe extensions. (about 4.5 inches).

Step 2 - Cut some mandrel bent 2.5" tubing (had a pair of Turbo Buick down pipes with multiple bends). This got me a nice pair of 90* elbows to work with. Added on a coupler (2.5 - 2.5 OD). Welded the extension pipe to the manifold so that it was a fixed location.

Step 3 - Installed the 90* elbow so that it was able to rotate towards the pass side of the truck. Same on the pass side, just made it direct to the rear of the cab.

Step 4 - Figured out the needed length (+1 inch) for the cross tube. Put a temp welding ring on the dr side 90* elbow under the truck. Cross tube ended up with a 15* bend in the middle (part of the down pipe I cut up). This hit the pass side at the 90* elbow and directed slightly towards the rear of the truck.

Step 5 - Marked out the needed hole location and made the funky looking cut / fish mouth (pipe side). Tack welded and crawled under the truck for the millionth time. Now that everything "fit" I was able to weld up the pipe after taking it back to the bench. Had to fill in a couple places, but this should work. I'd like to work the joint more (better flow) but starting to run into a time crunch.

At this point I have the pipe "made" all in 2.5 inch tube with band clamp at the 90* so that the manifolds can still be removed if needed (like final welding!).

Made a twisty connection pipe to the cat. Found it to be a bit long and was pushing the exhaust around. Looking to remake the pipe into something straight that could be clamped at the Cat. This was the stopping point for the weekend. Got a workout crawling under the truck!

Plates run out on my winter beater in March, so I have to be done & driving. Right now it runs and the trans is working. The A/C is problematic (still) and will get installed but not hooked up. Lines get run and capped until this is figured out.

Finished exhaust will get this much closer to done. Still working on the wiring gremlins. Have a back feed through the headlight harness. This has to be resolved.

We are also starting to get the house ready to sell and need the truck for that (chores, I have lots of chores!)

gsjimmy

Got the pipe welded up last night and installed. Couple shots of it are attached. Yes it's ugly, but it works. I am cutting the cat converter intermediate pipe tonight or Thursday and hooking up the exhaust to get that marked off the list.

Found out that one of the O2 connections is short by about 3" (Dr. Side). Looking at getting an extension wire harness.

The driver side (photo) slips in from the bottom side with out any issues. I have a band clamp at the 90* bend to seal the exhaust, yet make it removeable. Pass side also slips in from the bottom due to the funky Y-pipe arrangement at the elbow.

Now I will be onto figuring out the ground issue and getting coolant into the engine/sealing up that system. Might even get to hang the sheet metal this weekend.

I need this done to have a truck to move stuff around the house. Guess its time for a new punch list!

gsjimmy

Put in about 4 hours on the truck last night. Got the rear ground repositioned to the trans bolt (steel on steel ground), dropped the cab in place, installed the plugs, steering, pass side fender, radiator, condenser & core support, pass fender/inner fender, mounted the computer and made the lower radiator hose.

Still working out the upper hose and intake tube. While I was at it, I routed a lot of the forward wiring and made some other connections. I will try to get the truck off the stands tonight/Saturday, as I am also getting the house ready to sell (lots of stuff to do there!).

I do have to crawl under the truck and wrap up a few items there (mid pipe to Y pipe connection, wiring items & so forth).

gsjimmy

I really need to clean up the shop.............just sayin'

(Tools & crap everywhere)

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

It's been a while since I looked at this thread, you definitely turned it around! I remember my Hombre looking like a mess like that once the motor was in, and I remember the lack of space. Honestly, those guys who throw turbos in there, do they extend the frame? LOL, good job!

gsjimmy

Thanks, Beginning to think no one else was reading this My goal is to have it buttoned up tonight if possible. The list is 32 items long, mostly double checks. Sheet metal will take a bit of time to get right.

Of course then I have to paint the box, cab and repaint the hood (fish eyes). But first the shop is way out of control! Major clean up there. That is if the truck is back on its wheels again.

As for adding a turbo............ I think they all mount the battery in under the box and use that area for the turbo location. My goal is fun and MPG. No deep gearing, power adders (beyond a LS1 Corvette cam) or that kind of thing.

Next years project is going to be a stand alone LS swap into my GS California (455 Stage 1 & TH400, 3.31 12 bolt posi). Most likely 6.0 or 6.2 LS and 4L80e, keep the 12 bolt & gearing. Go from 12mpg, to 24-25 mpg, that means I could actually drive the car!

gsjimmy

Started hanging the sheet metal tonight, making connections and so forth. After getting the battery mounted and wired figured I would see if it runs. Remember that last night I moved the ground wire from the head to the bell house upper bolt.

Anyway, fired up immediately just as before. But now all the gauges are working. Idle is 750 rpm, oil pressure is 45 lbs, volt meter at 13.9 v, gas gauge says empty (Still need to figure that one out, but I think it is empty as I thought I would need to change out the fuel pump).

New issue, have a small trans leak at the cooler line. Might need to reseat the upper line. shouldn't be a big deal. Now I can work off the punch list in the morning.

One last thing, plugged in my code reader......"no codes found"

I am a happy camper now!

gsjimmy

Punch list = 32 items

Worked off 16 different things, getting real close now!

Have the front end sheet metal hung (less hood) and working to get everything aligned properly. Very time consuming as I used CAPA sheet metal that is only a little bit off (GM certified stuff, but still after market) So shimming and adjusting will be needed. Cab is now bolted down again as is the center bearing & final O2 connection was made (wires zip tied out of the way of hot/moving parts. Reconnected the 6 pin neutral safety plug, truck fired right up, so no need to replace that.

All the under hood sheet metal is bolted in place and wiring is run. Still have to mount the air bag modules someplace, maybe on the frame horns. I modded the lower core support to fit the bigger radiator, so that lower portion is gone now. Think I have the lower section still, so I could make something to fit against the lower radiator and still have the "factory" mounting.

Tonight I do the upper rad hose and fill with coolant. Need to figure out the steam vent line from the throttle body to ??? I do have the steam line under the manifold connected but there is a second port to something.

Also will need to fix my trans line leak. And tighten the heater hoses. I do have a piece of hose protector that was forgotten for my lower hose. That hose runs near the metal bracket I fabbed to relocate the idler arm. Kind of a sharp edge that could maybe rub, so that will get put on for "insurance".

So, looks like I can be done with the "swap portion" of the build this week and move on to paint work. Of course I do need to finish up the home projects to sell the house as well. Sleep is over rated anyway.

gsjimmy

Trying to figure out an upper radiator hose for a cross flow aluminum radiator. Have the Dodge RAM upper right now. No-Go, hits the intake tube. Looking at the '01 Z/28, similar bends. What I need is a 180* to a 90* off the radiator. This will go across the core support to the outlet on the water pump ('99 5.3, GEN III). Trying not to make it out of steel tube at this point. May end up doing that though. If so, I have enough cut 1.5" radiator bends.

Next "issue" is the steam port under the throttle body. Have the steam lines connected, but no clue on the other port. Guessing I will end up with a mess if this is wrong. Of course the boneyard is no help, they have all the 5.3's pulled.

Any ideas?

themealonwheels

iTrader: (20)

Your setup is a bit different from mine, so I can't comment on the upper radiator hose. But I can comment on the steam port... My radiator didn't have an accommodation to run it out of the motor to the radiator. I drilled and tapped a connection on the LS2 water pump on the round flat spot on the passenger side. Works fine, and cleans up the steam tube routing.

gsjimmy

Looked at a Olds Bravada (Blazer clone) with a 4.8 last night. He routed the steam line from the Drivers side of the TB into the upper radiator hose. Used a fitting from an Acura I think. 1.5" - 1.5" with a hose barb in the middle. Has a 30* bend in the middle.

Wondering if I can plumb the line into the over flow tank, or maybe a T-fitting into the line that runs between the overflow and radiator?

Thoughts?

Running out of stuff to take care of and this is becoming the only item on my list. Saturday AM is when I want this on the ground & under its own power. Next week It needs to get aligned so I can put some miles on it. Would like to drive it to work by next Friday

gsjimmy

Thought I had this issue fixed, but it's back again.

Swapped a 5.3 into my '03 S10. Up and running, but no gauge inputs. Water temp seems to be working, but nothing else. The dash lights up when the key is on, but no Tach, gas gauge, oil pressure. I did have this fixed at one point, idle is 750 rpm, oil pressure 45 lbs and 13.9 volts. Now back to the same issue.

Weird part is a back feed thru the system with the key in the off position. I'm getting random pulses that turn on the dash lights, leave the left blinker indicator on, then cycles to off and then repeats. Will kill the battery overnight. In the fuse box I get a relay that is also pulsing (clicking) off & on.

I'm leaning towards a grounding issue. There is a small ground attached to the upper bell house bolt (PITA to get to) that I had originally grounded to an aluminum head. Had gauges when moved to this location.

So could this be a bad body ground? (Metal mesh ground strap) Mine is bolted to the driver's side valve cover. Going to get a new HD unit and go from a trans bolt to the frame. I'll also recheck my small wire to see if that is not connected some how. Need to get this back on the road next week.

Ideas?

rpturbo

iTrader: (47)

Wish I could help with the wiring, but as I said, I bought a harness for this very reason.

As far as the steam tube goes. On my old, stock radiator, I drilled the radiator and tapped it (plastic tank) and just used a hose barb in the tank, and put the factory truck hose right on that. Worked great when I had a factory radiator.