ls1 to lq9 swap
#1
ls1 to lq9 swap
Okay so last summer I bought a 99 formula ws6 M6. After putting less than 500 miles on it the engine spun all 4 cam bearings and 2 rod bearings (I'm assuming they were all shot when I purchased)... so now I've decided to swap out the ls1 and swap in a used lq9 to get it running before summer returns. My question is what all do I need? I know I need the intake, oil pan with windage tray and pick up tube and all the accessories. Is there anything else? Pcm? Harness? Also need a new clutch and probably a fly wheel any thoughts there?
#2
12 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
I think you're good to go on everything. The only question I have is the knock sensors in the same location as on a LS1? I think you should be able to use the same wiring harness since you will be using your same intake with injectors and coil packs off the F-body. You will need a retune or flash done on your PCM.
#3
Im not sure if they are in the same spot or not. But I do remember reading somewhere that Texas speed performance makes electrical kits that extend the original sensor cord lengths??
#5
TECH Addict
Use the long block of the LQ9 and swap everything over from the LS1 that you need. The 2 long blocks are identical except there is one bolt hole tapped on the LS1 for the accessories that the LQ9 doesn't have. Everything else will swap over. The knock sensors are in the same spot.
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#9
#10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (22)
In a nut shell the LQ9 is identical inside and out to your LS1 aside from block material, bore size and two front accessory holes. One is simply not there, the other is an undrilled boss. The only internal parts that are not directly interchangeable are the pistons. FWIW, the knock sensors are not only in the same spot, they are the same PN, so if theres nothing wrong with the ones in the LQ9, leave them in there
Also, on the hole to drill, pop your old alt bracket off and hold it up to the LQ9 block. Of the three bolt holes, the bottom is present, TL is completely missing and you cant do anything about it. TR needs to be drilled out. Use a punch to transfer CL, then drill and tap to M10x1.5mm