1965 Impala LS Swap - Which engine for my goals?
#1
1965 Impala LS Swap - Which engine for my goals?
My 1965 Impala is almost ready for the road, now it's time to address the fun stuff (drive-train). I'm planning an LS swap, and I'm trying to determine which engine(s) would be suitable for my goals. I understand that nothing we're talking about here is cheap, but I'd like to spread the cost out while driving the car, and hopefully only do things once.
My initial goal is 300-400HP, but I'd like to choose an engine capable of big, reliable power down the road (600+). With the cost of the LS1/2/3/6, I'm thinking it might be better to go with a truck engine, but I'm not sure. Forced induction is an option. Whichever I choose, I'll be putting a modern automatic behind it.
If this isn't feasible, another option is to install a 5.3L, then save for whichever engine setup will get me to my next goal. Once that's done, I could pull the 5.3 and put it in my FJ80 (been planning on doing this once the current engine goes).
What would you do?
My initial goal is 300-400HP, but I'd like to choose an engine capable of big, reliable power down the road (600+). With the cost of the LS1/2/3/6, I'm thinking it might be better to go with a truck engine, but I'm not sure. Forced induction is an option. Whichever I choose, I'll be putting a modern automatic behind it.
If this isn't feasible, another option is to install a 5.3L, then save for whichever engine setup will get me to my next goal. Once that's done, I could pull the 5.3 and put it in my FJ80 (been planning on doing this once the current engine goes).
What would you do?
Last edited by Joe Link; 02-04-2015 at 11:21 AM.
#2
TECH Resident
I'm super happy with the L92 + 6L80 combo I put in my '51 Ford F1 pickup. It is lighter than your impala, @ 3200 and change lbs.
It runs great right out of the box @ 405 horse and 420 ftlbs. I suspect probably more with a tune (which I haven't don't). And low boost down the road should increase to the wild range.
And the engine is all aluminum, so it'll improve your front to rear weight balance.
Don't underestimate the affect on gearing and # (6 with 6L80) of gears especially to move a 4k lb vehicle, as well as impact on fuel economy.
The cost of this package is marginally more in the short term, but I think it pays for itself longer term. I paid $3k shipped for mine with harness, PCM and pedal. Still, I spent another $1000 to convert the trans from 4WD to 2WD (shopping around, you can probably find a 2WD). This package had 100k+ miles on it. After cleaning it up, changing all the engine seals and having the trans gone through at the time of conversion, it runs like a top (beautifully).
I'd highly recommend similar if you can find it.
Doug
It runs great right out of the box @ 405 horse and 420 ftlbs. I suspect probably more with a tune (which I haven't don't). And low boost down the road should increase to the wild range.
And the engine is all aluminum, so it'll improve your front to rear weight balance.
Don't underestimate the affect on gearing and # (6 with 6L80) of gears especially to move a 4k lb vehicle, as well as impact on fuel economy.
The cost of this package is marginally more in the short term, but I think it pays for itself longer term. I paid $3k shipped for mine with harness, PCM and pedal. Still, I spent another $1000 to convert the trans from 4WD to 2WD (shopping around, you can probably find a 2WD). This package had 100k+ miles on it. After cleaning it up, changing all the engine seals and having the trans gone through at the time of conversion, it runs like a top (beautifully).
I'd highly recommend similar if you can find it.
Doug
#3
Shop for a van engine, 2wd.
let me know if you need any trim pcs for the 65, my Father restored a 65 a few years ago and he still has plenty of stainless and trim left over, we parted a few cars in the process.
let me know if you need any trim pcs for the 65, my Father restored a 65 a few years ago and he still has plenty of stainless and trim left over, we parted a few cars in the process.
#4
TECH Apprentice
Honestly i would go with a junkard 5.3 or 6.0. They have been proven to be super reliable, as long as you know they were running when parked. I just did a 6.0 (lq4) swap on my chevelle, and im putting some boost to it as well. I have no doubt i will be around the 600 hp mark, and i dont have a whole bunch of $ in the setup. The truck motors are stout and can be found for anywhere from $350 to $1200 depending how hard you look. My local yard charges $350 if i pull it myself
#5
I'd argue that almost any LS you purchase is going to be able to achieve your power goals. DW brings up very good points, and the only thing I'd really add is there's no replacement for displacement. If you start with a 4.8L, aside from spending money on car intake, injectors, you're going to have to turn it up more to squeeze the same amount of power then lets say DW's 6.2L. It's pretty well known 6.2L are pushing 400hp from the factory, and could easily bolt on a few things and tune and get 500hp without boost, which you would have a hard time getting that out of a 4.8L.
I just swapped an iron block LS6 (5.7L LM7) in my 89' Toyota that is SAS'd, I'm easily making more horsepower than my poor Toyota axles can take. I know the 80 axles are a bit beefier, but probably not 400hp reliably. If I were in your shoes, I would put a 5.3/6.0L in your Toyota, and put something like a L92/LS3 and put a 6L behind it. Do it once, do it right, and be done with it.
I just swapped an iron block LS6 (5.7L LM7) in my 89' Toyota that is SAS'd, I'm easily making more horsepower than my poor Toyota axles can take. I know the 80 axles are a bit beefier, but probably not 400hp reliably. If I were in your shoes, I would put a 5.3/6.0L in your Toyota, and put something like a L92/LS3 and put a 6L behind it. Do it once, do it right, and be done with it.
#6
Thanks for the input guys. This combined with more searching has me leaning toward a 2005+ LM7 (5.3), if I can find one around here. It seems most available locally are the earlier ones, but I think the stronger rods might be worth holding out for. I'm thinking I could install it and run it while I figure out an FI setup, likely turbocharging. It seems with this engine I could achieve my goals (and more!) and have a best-bang-for-the-buck setup. I'd prefer to not touch the bottom end, if possible.
If there's a good reason to look at the LQ4 over the LM7, please let me know. I'm not sure that the added cost is worth the additional cubes and potentially weaker internals.
If there's a good reason to look at the LQ4 over the LM7, please let me know. I'm not sure that the added cost is worth the additional cubes and potentially weaker internals.
#7
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I went with the 5.3 for the same reason, it was cost effective. $900 for a complete 70K mile 2008 LH6 and 4L60E, harness, pedal, accesory drive. I decided to upgrade the heads, cam & intake. PRC heads are a good value for the power return and a custom cam. It should be sufficient for a while. Watch the classifieds on all the forums, there are good deals to be had often.
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#8
I went with the 5.3 for the same reason, it was cost effective. $900 for a complete 70K mile 2008 LH6 and 4L60E, harness, pedal, accesory drive. I decided to upgrade the heads, cam & intake. PRC heads are a good value for the power return and a custom cam. It should be sufficient for a while. Watch the classifieds on all the forums, there are good deals to be had often.
#9
My 1965 Impala is almost ready for the road, now it's time to address the fun stuff (drive-train). I'm planning an LS swap, and I'm trying to determine which engine(s) would be suitable for my goals. I understand that nothing we're talking about here is cheap, but I'd like to spread the cost out while driving the car, and hopefully only do things once.
My initial goal is 300-400HP, but I'd like to choose an engine capable of big, reliable power down the road (600+). With the cost of the LS1/2/3/6, I'm thinking it might be better to go with a truck engine, but I'm not sure. Forced induction is an option. Whichever I choose, I'll be putting a modern automatic behind it.
If this isn't feasible, another option is to install a 5.3L, then save for whichever engine setup will get me to my next goal. Once that's done, I could pull the 5.3 and put it in my FJ80 (been planning on doing this once the current engine goes).
What would you do?
My initial goal is 300-400HP, but I'd like to choose an engine capable of big, reliable power down the road (600+). With the cost of the LS1/2/3/6, I'm thinking it might be better to go with a truck engine, but I'm not sure. Forced induction is an option. Whichever I choose, I'll be putting a modern automatic behind it.
If this isn't feasible, another option is to install a 5.3L, then save for whichever engine setup will get me to my next goal. Once that's done, I could pull the 5.3 and put it in my FJ80 (been planning on doing this once the current engine goes).
What would you do?
#10
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Unless you are on an unlimited budget, I've found the best tool for saving $ on an LS build is patience! Watch craigslist, watch forums, talk to people. I've been gathering parts for about 8 months now. When buying new, shop around look at sponsors, summit, Jegs,amazon, ebay, etc. It's takes a little time, but if you save $2 - $10 dollars on 20 items it all adds up.
I'm a little bummed I just paid full price at PRC to have my 243's done to stage 2.5 and 1 day after they show up at the house there is a set for sale on the forum here for $800. I could have saved $500.
#12
Decide what you really want. 400 hp. Almost any LS works. 600 hp, youd be ahead of the game to use a gen 4 6.0 or 6.2.
Impala should have plenty of room to use a truck engine (accessories and intake), either gen 3 or gen 4.
gen 4 square port heads are going to make more power than gen 3 cathedrals. Gen 4 generally requires vvt, dod delete, if youre swapping cams anyway its not much difference.
Impala should have plenty of room to use a truck engine (accessories and intake), either gen 3 or gen 4.
gen 4 square port heads are going to make more power than gen 3 cathedrals. Gen 4 generally requires vvt, dod delete, if youre swapping cams anyway its not much difference.